Dear greenfig,

Nice to meet you.

I studied a lot from your posts. Thank you.

And thank you for letting we know the current state of grafted fig trees and the reason for success in grafting. I'm looking forward to your photos.

I thought of one thing. I should have sterilized the cuttings with 10% bleach solution, so that various germs do not enter from the cut end.

mizuyari,

Here are a few photos of the graft today. It doesn’t look spectacular because the fig just woke up from the dormancy.
But I am happy that is alive and clearly wants to grow!

Hi greenfig,

Thank you for posting photos. Amazingly, buds are already breaking. California seems to be warm. I hope that your fig tree grow well.

In my case also, since some scions were thin, the cuttings seemed to fail. In order to increase a survival rate, graft-cuttings were done. I wish that roots appear from the rootstocks.

Since your success became clear two months after the grafting, my results will become clear at the beginning of April.

26 days after planting

All scions are alive now.
(life / total)
1. Cucumber,         4/4
2. Gino,         4/4
3. Narragansett,     4/4
4. Pawpaw's Turkey,     4/4
5. Seabrook Banana,     4/4
6. Smith        4/4

Today I dug soil and checked the root. The following two pictures are before and after digging soil. The root of some cutting has already grown.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/12875803785/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/12875804085/
(Sorry. When I tried to insert photos, the alert 'Sorry, you do not have permission to perform this action', appears.)

The following picture is sprout of Narragansett.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/12875896683/

It seems that the growth of sprout stopped right now. This indicates that the growth was supported by the stored energy of the scion. If the cambium layers of the scion and rootstock are connected, the growth of sprout start again. Else if, the leafs fall.

Very cool and impressive, please keep sharing!

Ampersand

Nice to meet you.

If it is successful, I will keep updating until I harvest fruits.

Mizuyari,

Congratulations.

What a job and super efficiency !

Francisco

Hi Francisco,

Thanks. But it's just a milestone, not the end of the journey.

Very interesting .....good luck with them

Hi deerhunter16b,

Thank you. Nice to meet you.

Your rooting method is also interesting. Physical properties of the plant change according to the rooting environment.

Mizuyari,
Thanks for posting the update.
What is your soil mix recipe? It looks like Coconut Coir and Gravel, what are the ratios?
Thanks.

Amazing.  I figured that cuttings would be too fragile to graft on right away, but you seem to have the magic touch.  

Hi ascpete,

Sorry my reply is late.

Soil mix recipe is (Coconut Coir : Bora soil (ボラ土) =1:1).

The Bora soil is ejectamenta of the Mt. Kirishima (in Japan). The Bora soil is like pumice and cheap (20 liters costs about 1 dollar). The water retentivity of the Bora soil is worse than pearlite. Since the Bora soil is acidulous (ph: 5-6), there are few germs, like sphagnum moss. In order to make soil mix acidic, I added the Bora soil. Thus the ratio of Coconut Coir and Bora soil is arbitrary.

https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=%E3%83%9C%E3%83%A9%E5%9C%9F&client=firefox-a&hs=iIi&rls=org.mozilla:ja:official&hl=ja&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=GBsUU8GlKYnwkAXTk4HYDA&ved=0CC0QsAQ

Hi thearabicstudent,

Nice to meet you.

I treated according to the instructions of the paper. Since I am a beginner, it takes about 5 minutes to finish grafting (from cutting to taping). A result will become clear in two months. Please wait a little while more.

Mizuyari,
Thanks for the reply.
From the healthy looking roots, it looks as if its working successfully.

Hi ascpete,

In Japan, when planting fig scions, we usually use 100% Kanuma soil (鹿沼土). The Kanuma soil is also ejectamenta of the volcanoes, pumice and acidulous. The water retentivity of the Kanuma soil is better than the Bora soil. Since shipping expenses of the Kanuma soil from the Kanuma soil-field are high, I used Bora soil.

Kanuma soil:
https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=Kanuma+soil&client=firefox-a&hs=F4r&rls=org.mozilla:ja:official&hl=ja&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=vq0UU4fDEJCclQXYk4CIDg&ved=0CCkQsAQ&biw=1043&bih=864

The 6th picture of this site is an actual example:
http://blog.zige.jp/pastral/kiji/542268.html

The ratio (Coconut Coir : Bora soil =1:1) is the first attempt for me. If I fail, I think about it a lot, and from there I can make a new start. Your following post is food for thought. Thank you.
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/easy-simple-and-practical-tricks-to-increase-potted-fig-cutting-survival-rates-6719728?pid=1281407982#post1281407982

41 days after planting

lower left: Cucumber
lower right: Seabrook Banana
upper left: Gino
upper right: Pawpaw's Turkey

http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/13200698633/in/set-72157642452741093

forward: Narragansett
toward: Smith

http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/13200573195/in/set-72157642452741093


Criteria of the success or failure

i) probably success: the green wood is larger than the scion
(interchange of nourishment and water is possible between the sicon and the rootstock)

Seabrook Banana:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/13200895604/in/set-72157642452741093

Gino:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/13200715833/in/set-72157642452741093

ii) live: growth stops, leaves drop
(interchange of water is possible between the scion and the rootstock)

Smith:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/118875434@N04/13200590685/in/set-72157642452741093

iii) failure: scion dies
(combination between the scion and the rootstock ends in failure)


cultivar( success / live / dead )
1. Cucumber           0 / 4 / 0
2. Gino                   3 / 1 / 0
3. Narragansett       0 / 4 / 0
4. Pawpaw's Turkey  2 / 2 / 0
5. Seabrook Banana 1 / 3 / 0
6. Smith                  0 / 4 / 0


In our city, an average lowest and highest air temperature in mid-March is 42.6F (5.9C) and 58.1F (14.5C), respectively. Temperature is low to take out figs from a chamber. I am going to transplant grafted figs in a pots in April.

Thank you for a great thread, mizuyari. Wonderful results and documentation. Many of the grafted scions seemed too large to graft successfully to this type of bark (?) graft. Very exciting to see your success.

Mizuyari,

That is a superb job!
Congratulations.
Your success makes me think that I should try graft cutting on a next opportunity.

Francisco 

Nice to meet you recomer20.

You are welcome.

Graft-cutting was performed to check a propagating method when a scion is valuable, short and thin(? in our case, some scions are thick).

We call this grafting method "Kiritugi (切り接ぎ)" in Japanese. It is easy to put cambium layers together by this method. How do you say "Kiritugi" in English? Veneer grafting?

For example,
kiwi:
http://fruitgrowing.blog24.fc2.com/blog-entry-614.html#end
blueberry:
http://fruitgrowing.blog24.fc2.com/blog-entry-617.html#end

Hi, Francisco

Thank you.

Because there are success and near failure examples, it seems that it can be possible to increase success rates by checking conditions.

I also carried out other graft cuttings on many cultivars. I will introduce a failure example next time.

Hiroshi

mizuyari-san
hello sir,
very impressive work!
are you concerned when there a minor leaf drop occurs?
what do you think causes a leaf to drop?
I have noticed some young leaf drop off the otherwise well growing shoot.

Damir

Damir-san

Nice to meet you. Thank you.

When the grafting goes well, a green wood grows up, and a leaf rarely falls. In this sense, leaf dropping concerns me. When the grafting does not goes well, growth of the green wood stops, and a scion dries up by the transpiration of the leaf. I think that in order to avoid dying, a scion spontaneously drops leafs. Thus leaf dropping indicates that the grafting does not goes well.

Sometimes a green wood continues growing with dropping minor leafs. I think that the scion drops the leaf which does not fit environment. In this case, I do not mind leaf dropping.

mizuyari-san

Thank you for expaining the minor leaf drop.
I share your understanding of it.

Regards

Damir

Damir-san

In the case of a cutting, leaf dropping is sometimes observed when the scion starts leafing out. At first, leafing occurs as the scion being a part of a tree. But in actuality, the scion is not a part of the tree. It is just a stick. As a consequence, the leaf can not adapt itself to environment. Thus, leaf dropping occurs.

Warm regards,
Hiroshi