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Grafting

just finished graft Rogisca fig on Gillette fig(rootstock)

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Great Pics Nico, Is this a new method of grafting...????   Have you had good success doing this...????  You guys in Indonesia/Malaysia are doing some awesome work.

I tried this method, but could not get the bark to loosen from the cambium without breaking the bark... so I gave up.

I  heard (youtube*) the best time to separate bark is during the summer growing season...it was mentioned in conjunction with T-grafting which was recommended as a summer activity. Pretty cool technique, though. Never seen that before.

*EDIT: source (beginning 45:55) 

  <A wonderful 1 hour video if you happen to have some time to kill.

You tube is great!  You can find anything you need help with on there.  I love the idea of grafting, because I want every fig, but I also want every other edible tree and plant, so I am planting gazillions of everything.  I recently learned that we have the climate for Pistachios!  Oh wow!!  I bought a grafting tool, and hope to use it this season.  It has a special cut that melds with the equal cut on whatever you graft, and I have the tape.  Fingers crossed. 

I LOVE You Tube for all things... pruning advice, seedling advice, all of it!!

Suzi

I use a grafting tool and it works well.Rex.

That's a patch bud, been around a long time. I used to try that on pecans, nuts are hard to graft generally.  On most species needs to be done when the bark slips. If the bark does not slip easily, this indicates that the stock is not in active growth

Nico
The scion bud looks like it is already starting to grow before you grafted it. 
Will this graft method work with dormant buds?
Thanks

I've seen this method also used for grafting citrus in Mexico. Looks pretty easy also. Hope he keeps us posted.

I've never tried this method but I like it. I also find it interesting that the scion looks as if it was in the beginning of growth stage.

As was referred to above, I would assume that both the rootstock as well as the scion may both have to be "slipping" for this method to work properly. I say that because of the dimensions of the bud section. It doesn't look as if it was just "cut" away as a bud might be. But instead looks like the bark was cut as well as "peeled" away from the donor tree.

I've always grafted with dormant scion onto rootstock that is actively growing. Usually in the very early stages of new growth in spring. This has worked very well for me. All that energy in the rootstock tends to push new life right into the dormant scion. Quickly waking it up & flushing it into new growth - usually ;) .

What grafting methods are know to work best (highest percent success)? 
Also,  the biggest reasons for grafting are resistance to root disease but also if you can control growth habits. 
Wonder the results are if you graft a slow growing fig on a very vigorous rootstock fig or visa versa?  Would you get bigger figs than you normally do for that variety or just more of them?

This is one of the best article on Figs Grafting. Sorry it is in French but the pictures are good and to the point.

http://www.greffer.net/?p=7

http://www.jardin-mundani.com/Frances/GREFFES/Ecusson-majorquin.htm

Thanks for the link Sal.
I hit the Google toolbar translate to English button and it is translates very well.

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