Joe, I can tell you that planting inground in a pot is sometimes a struggle, because many varieties will still send roots beyond that pot, through the drain holes, and exploit the nutrients and moisture in the soil.
By the end of the season the plant will likely be firmly anchored.
For that reason, you may want to have the drain holes on the sides of the pots, to be able to sever those roots by jamming a shovel along the pot. If the roots poke through the bottom of the pot they will be a lot tougher to cut, and a lot more digging will have to be done.
I don't know if anyone uses a "sealed" outer pot to keep the roots from escaping, but I would imagine that's a bad idea, unless you're willing to remove the inner pot once in a while, to remove the excess water from rain and keep the roots from drowning and rotting.
Depending on the variety, it may be feasible to plant in ground, prune it heavily in the fall, then pile up the stubbed tree with leaf litter to get it through its first couple of winters. A chicken wire cage around the plant would allow you to pile the leaves up over 2'.
Otherwise, there may be plenty of places in a school to store a potted tree. It may even do really well as an indoor plant at the right location. It may get leggy due to lack of sun if it isn't allowed to go dormant, but that growth can be pruned out in the Spring, when the plant is brought outside again.
If you're able to plant it against a south-facing wall, it may thrive without much help. The harsh Winter winds seem to do the most damage, and plants that aren't overly fertilized do better at preparing for normal cold temperatures in our area.
What variety are you considering?
Will you be doing multiple plants?