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Great Figs For Zone 5 and Colder?

What ever method or methods you choose it will involve some trial and error. Know the length of your growing season or know when your last frost and first frost occur and choose the earlier ripening cultivars. I was surprised when said that your pears are already in full bloom in your Z5, sounds like you'll have a long enough season for many. I'm still a month and a half away from pear blooming.
Depending on your location voles could be a problem for buried figs.
Check out this google search link for protection/burying ideas, some very ambitious growers.
https://www.google.com/search?q=burying+fig+trees&biw=1366&bih=602&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwie4tXEq-bLAhUqv4MKHQiNADsQ_AUIBigB

Good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by pino
Definitely some great information on the links to Japanese fig growing.

Keep in mind Japan is somewhere zones 8-9.  To duplicate these practices in Zone 5 - 6 will require a greenhouse or some very creative thinking.

I tried a 1' below ground level espalier last year. Figured would be easy to protect for the winter. 
Unfortunately you need very short people to pick the figs and the fig branches/cordons were at the right level for the rodents and rabbits to munch on...lol
 


I dont think I have a good olace or a greenhouse for something like that but sounds interesting!
Sorry to hear that the rodents got to them. I know all about working hard to get a good crop just to have rodents come in and take your fruits! Last year we did everything we could to keep mice, rabbits, and squirrels out of our garden#

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjay7491
What ever method or methods you choose it will involve some trial and error. Know the length of your growing season or know when your last frost and first frost occur and choose the earlier ripening cultivars. I was surprised when said that your pears are already in full bloom in your Z5, sounds like you'll have a long enough season for many. I'm still a month and a half away from pear blooming.
Depending on your location voles could be a problem for buried figs.
Check out this google search link for protection/burying ideas, some very ambitious growers.
https://www.google.com/search?q=burying+fig+trees&biw=1366&bih=602&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwie4tXEq-bLAhUqv4MKHQiNADsQ_AUIBigB

Good luck


My pears are located down in sort of a valley near a pond and surrounded by other trees and our house to break the wind. They get good southern/eastern exposure. It may be a warm pocket and I am thinking of trying to plant figs in this same area. The highest point on our property is our field and it frosts, while our yard is frost free? Something magical going on!

In 2013 I planted a couple of Chicago Hardy figs on a southwards facing slope with full sun exposure on our property in Michigan. Normally it is a 5A winter here, but the winter of 2013/2014 turned much colder with minimum temps of -27F and almost 40 nights below 0F. Much to my surprise, the above ground growth died, but the roots survived and by June were sending up new shoots. By August developing figs appeared. However:

The limiting factor turns out to be the length of the effective growing season, not the winter's low temperatures. The nurseries do overlook some petty details. By the time the green figs are approaching full size in September, days are often in the 60's, nights in the 40's and there isn't enough warm weather and/or sun left to ripen the figs. October brings a frost and that's the end. We haven;t had any success with figs ripening after picking.

Forcing earlier development of the shoots isn't feasible because of the risk of late spring frost. Probably the only way to get ripe figs would be to enclose the plants in August and create a hothouse environment until October frost.

alasnofigs:
Well:First,you have to Bury the plant,on one side,to about 20 inches deep,second,you have to grow a cultivar with abundant breba crop,and third,when the soil is soft for you to dig out the plant,you take it out plant in pot,and you placed it in the third item you need to have,a very very small greenhouse.
Keep it in the greenhouse till ,frost is gone,and then,you slowly take it outside,first week in shade and after that,semi shade,and finally full sun.
You will have many ripe fruits if you do it this way.
Of course,This work is only needed in zone 5 (very cold climates)and not in warmer climates,but if someone wants ,ripe fig fruits,it will work,every time except if some rodents ,will damage your plant.
The trick is ,that if done as above the plant will come out all alive and with little incipient fruits,on it already,and so they will have plenty of time to ripe and not disappoint you.
Desert King ,Takoma Violet, Saint Anthony ,will wok for this situation just fine.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by alasnofigs
In 2013 I planted a couple of Chicago Hardy figs on a southwards facing slope with full sun exposure on our property in Michigan. Normally it is a 5A winter here, but the winter of 2013/2014 turned much colder with minimum temps of -27F and almost 40 nights below 0F. Much to my surprise, the above ground growth died, but the roots survived and by June were sending up new shoots. By August developing figs appeared. However: The limiting factor turns out to be the length of the effective growing season, not the winter's low temperatures. The nurseries do overlook some petty details. By the time the green figs are approaching full size in September, days are often in the 60's, nights in the 40's and there isn't enough warm weather and/or sun left to ripen the figs. October brings a frost and that's the end. We haven;t had any success with figs ripening after picking. Forcing earlier development of the shoots isn't feasible because of the risk of late spring frost. Probably the only way to get ripe figs would be to enclose the plants in August and create a hothouse environment until October frost.
I have several varieties (Dalmatie, Randino, Brunswick, and some clone of VDB) in ground in zone 5 Ukraine, Europe. These do well if burried for the winter under dirt, and all the previous year branches have no die back. Also there were several varieties I get rid of as these were not good, no result for several years. Some varieties as Randino and VDB (unknown sillilar) are pinched after 4 - 6 leaf appear. Main crop figs start to ripen mid September till cold weather (about mid October) or first frost.
Our maximum frost can be down to -30C or a bit less then -20F.
-10F we have every winter.
PS
Brunswick is not so good for my climate, I think to abandon this.

This will be the first year that I'm putting trees in the ground. I have several pots, but I've chosen three that have gotten the biggest over the last here years. One each of Hardy Chicago, Hardy Hartford, and Celeste. I have backups that will go in the garage.

Most of the rest, I'm going to have to sink pots. Last year I was so disgusted... I trusted someone to water my figs while we were away for two weeks. I came back to almost all my trees with crunchy brown leaves and all fruit dropping. She came over and said she forgot one day... Told her I was not an idiot. Thank goodness all the trees lived.

Back to planting. Much like my Hardy bananas, I'm going to plant deep. Not sure about protection yet, but may do garbage cans or boxes with Xmas lights inside... I'll cross that bridge later.

Here in my area, we're in the 5b to low 6 range, just depends on your location and whether you're on a ridge or in a valley.

Chris

Hi Holly.  You may want to reach out to member robertharper.  Bob is currently trialling 30 or 40 different varieties in-ground in the northeast.  I believe he's in zone 5b.  He has a good list of super cold hardy figs and lots of data collected through his trials.  Very nice guy.

To that end, like Jamie said above, Florea and English Brown Turkey are good choices.  I grow both here in NYC (in pots) and and both perform very well.  Last season we picked our first ripe fig from EBT on July 3.  That's pretty good for the northeast.

Incidentally, Florea is an heirloom that was introduced by Vasile (member Herman2 above).  Pretty sure it was his dad's variety.  I'm a sucker for heirlooms so it's a very special variety that I treasure based on that alone.

check this guy out

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