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Growing fig in pot better Method!

Alb419 Z5,Giuseppe , thought me a new way to grow in pot.
Here it is:
Make Holes in the Bottom of pot for drainage.
Make holes on Bottom side of pot for aeration.
Set pot on ground in the early Spring and the tree will grow roots trough the Bottom holes,and feed from ground,and the side holes will serve as aeration,and drainage in case bottom holes get plugged by roots.
Sooo:Forget about the old Method of burying the tree 4 inches in ground,I am sure this Method is superior to the way I was growing before.


Thanks for the updated method. Simplest is often best! 

Guys,

If I understand correctly you are going to use the bottom drain holes for the roots to grow into the topsoil. I did that years ago and learned it became quite a job getting underneath the tubs to cut through the tree roots to free up the tree.

 

To me better idea is drilling drain hoes just at the very bottom of the sides of the containers so a good square shovel can easily cut through them to remove the trees. That means there would be no bottom holes for roots to grow out of and the container would only have to be placed into the soil an inch deep or so just enough to get those holes just below ground level.

 

It was a lot of work when I had roots growing out of bottom drain holes trying to get at them to cut the tree free.

 

I also suggest placing a mark directly above each hole high  up on the tub so you would know where to cut through with the shovel.

Just a thought

 

Lou

 


That sounds like a GREAT idea........

Those side holes will help dissipate carbon dioxide gas right out of the root ball which can be very beneficial to actual tree growth. Too much carbon dioxide gas that builds up in the pot can cause an established tree to grow with less vigor. Too much carbon dioxide gas buildup in the pot of a small tree or new start can kill it by suffocation.

When the roots are "forming" and developing on ANY tree. They will absorb oxygen from the air and combine it with the stored energy reserves (plant sugars and starches) to yield NEW root mass. In that bio chemical reaction carbon dioxide gas is actually manufactured by the roots. If too much carbon dioxide gas accumulates around the roots......the plant will suffer or die from actual suffocation if it is a small plant with little root mass. 

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Lou:Giuseppe Idea works because if the container is at the surface,(not buried at all,then one aether pushes over the container in the Fall,and it comes out with the Bottom roots,or cut,the roots pushing the spade ,parallel with the bottom of pot,and the pot is removed.
The improvement is that one do not have to dig to bury the container+,the Bottom side aeration,provide oxygen and stay open,for water drainage, while the Bottom drain holes,is an avenue for the roots to go down in the soil.

It all makes perfect sense.......and this will be a benefit to many others.


Dan
Semper Fi-cus


gentleman's


does it matter what size pot you are currently using? or this is good for all sizes?
is it even recommended for 1-3 gallon or only for larger trees/larger pots?

also- does this method replaces upgrading the pot size?

thank you, eli

Giuseppe uses 5 Gallon Buckets to grow his figs.
N othing replaces the usually growing of a small plant in a very small container,then gradually in larger and larger.
When it gets to be moved in 5 Gallon,it stay there forever,with the above method,of course every 3 years or so one has to take it out of pot and remove very thick roots,and place it back,in container with eventually new fertile potting soil.

I observed this recently here:  http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5378926

I have 1st-year cuttings that are 4' tall small trees right now.  Every single one of them has sent roots through the air and into the ground.  They have literally grown twice as large as my 2nd year cuttings which have not sent roots into the ground.

Also discussed post #5 here:  http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5390290

I do not think it is necessary to add extra holes on the side of the pot.  In fact, clearly, it is not necessary for the pot to even come into direct contact with the ground.

I will warn you, however.  Make sure you put the pot on the ground in a place where it will never blow over, and you will never need to move it.  If you ever need to move it, you will break the root, and it will injure the plant.  My plants with roots in the ground (through the pot) stay wilted for at least 1-2 weeks after moving them and breaking the root.

Yes Jason you are right about not moving the pot, choose a spot and place it there for the season,and it will fruit much better than it ever did when in a regular pot,with no access to the outside soil.
If you want to move your pots around the above method is not good for you.

To me, the genius of this idea for those living in colder climates who grow figs in containers is being able to avoid most of that periodic root-pruning. Seems like if you can leave them rooted into the ground till they've gone dormant in the fall, you avoid the drawback Jason mentioned, because the leaves will already be gone. Next spring, bring them out of the garage and it starts all over again. Voila! Many of the advantages of in-ground figs where it might otherwise be impossible!

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