Whats up everyone! Since I'm new to the forum and fig growing in general I have quite a few questions that I'm 100% positive will get answered here. As I stated in my first post, all my fruit growing experience has nothing to do with figs and I'm sure there are some cultural differences I need to learn and understand.

1. In the humid south fig rust is a big problem so I have read. Are there any pruning practices that will help alleviate this? Is fig rust brought on by wet leafs? If so will pruning to more of a open center help?

2. When exactly is the best time to prune in the south? I assume winter but we all know what happens when we assume:l

3. Ive read about removing breba crops to make main crops more plentiful. With such a long growing season here is there a real benefit to doing this?

4. Pinching the tops off of new shoots every 5th or 6th leaf. I understand it slows down the plant and controls height. It forces branching which equals more figs but is there a right time to start this practice? As soon as new growth begins or do you wait until after breba crop is done.....??? Is this practice done mostly with potted figs or do in ground figs benefit just as much?

Ive got many more questions but don't want to put to many on one post. After Ive got my answers here and take my notes then I will pick yalls brains again. Thanks in advance for any and all info.

Fig rust is inevitable here but it isn't really a bad problem as much as it is a ugly problem. As you are aware if you're in the deep South we really don't have seasons here and it can be 80 one day and 29 the next. That is exactly what you do not want since any active tender growth will freeze and die. The fig tree with rust senses dormancy and will be better prepared for a cold snap. It isn't a perfect system because without the cold temps the fig will try to re-grow its leaves just hopefully not when a cold snap hits. If the colder days coincide with the rust defoliating the tree then it is all good and that is what the most likely scenario is.

Pruning I would say in February for us. But I'm sure others will chime in.

Not touching three.

Four. If you are going to train your fig to a shape then after it has reached the point that you want it to branch you may prune it. If you are actively training the tree then fruit should not be a concern and sacrificing them will pay off in the long run.

Just my opinion and I am nothing but a rookie amateur.

Thanks Charles, Im in South Houston close to Galveston Bay. Pensacola is a beautiful place to live. I lived in Gulf Breeze when I was going to high school and just went there last month to move my Mom back to Houston from Pensacola. Are you still getting pounded by rain over there? It rained all week long on our trip. I miss that place man! The surf was great but the fishing isnt as good as it is here in Galveston. Thanks again for the info!

Fig Rust: There will not be too much  you can do to avoid it.  As high as the humidity is in your area, it is almost like being underwater all the time (I'm still surprised I did not develop gills).  You can try thinning out to let additional air flow, but do not expect miracles.  As Charles pointed out, it is more of an ugly problem.  If however, there is a period of extended rains (like a tropical storm) it is probable the tree will defoliate.

Pruning: Just before growth starts.  Your trees will most likely never go dormant, but they will have a quiet period around late December into Janurary (and possibly in the middle of summer).  The trees drop their leaves, but the terminal buds will mostly stay green.  You should see them start to leaf out late-January or early-February.

Brebas and Pinching:  I would not bother.  Both techniques are geared towards speeding up the ripening of the main crop.  Your season is long enough to ripen most varieties.  Also, it begins early enough where you may have fruit not too long after trees up north are breaking dormancy.

Some things you can do to protect your plants (not eliminate it ) Don't water your plants late in the evening or at night.  The moisture on the leaves overnight can increase your chances of developing rust on more than just your figs.  Running a sprinkler system at night can be bad on your plants causing all kinds of problems. 

Open pruning, to allow airflow through the plant and help increase evaporation on the leaves does help too.

Thanks for the info! I do use open pruning on certain varieties of blues that have leaf molding issues. It does help but doesn't eliminate.