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Has anyone tried waxing top part of the cutting to avoid desiccation?

Hello,
My statement on the "baggie method" simply means that they did not mention (from what I could tell) any use of their bagged cuttings to promote initial root growth. I am sure most of us use plastic bags to store our cuttings in the refrigerator (with a slightly damp paper towel or newspaper inside).

The "baggie method" that has been discussed on the forums is a way to generate initial roots - cuttings wrapped a bit in slightly moist newspaper, kept in a 70 - 80 deg F location under not so bright lights and check for mold.

So that is the difference. Bags for storage, bags for root generation. Someone else will need to answer the question about amino acids and protein. I am rusty on that topic.

Ottawan - You are correct. This paper is about maintaining cutting vitality prior to starting the rooting process. Since they addressed waxing the cuttings, I thought it would fit in with the topic. The paper did not have any extensive discussion on why the various methods worked well or not so well, except that the 'control' failed due to lack of moisture, which is obvious.

I’ll try not to get carried to far on this topic, but I have two other interesting research papers that are unfortunately not on line. I would highly recommend two publications that contain a wealth of information. These will be found only in special science libraries but could probably be borrowed through a library loan.

The ISHS I and II International Symposim on Fig from 1998 and 2003. These are from ISHS Acta Horticulturae publications #480 and #605. There are two papers in volume 605 that come from researchers at the University in Lavras, Brazil.

The first paper is ‘Rooting of Fig (Ficus carica L) Cuttings: Cutting Time and IBA by N.N.J. Chalfun et al. I’ll try to be suscinct and brief. In this experiment cuttings were taken at 15 day intervals between April and August. One group was treated with IBA (indolebutyric acid - a root promoter) and the other group of cuttings for each of the dates was not. They were planted in a 3:2 ratio of soil and sand. The best results came from the early cuttings taken on April 15 - %92 rooted without IBA and %100 rooted with IBA. This decreased over time - for example, cuttings taken on July 30 and not treated had a %37 rate and with IBA %55 rooting success. Obviously the early cuttings were taken closer to the period after dormancy had set in. One other factor was evaluated and that was the above soil vegetative growth - there was greater leafing and budding later in the season which is dependent on heat and was absent earlier in the season. Humidity as a factor was not discussed.

The second paper is, Factors Affecting on Rooting of FIgs (Ficus Carica L) Cuttings by L.E. C Antunes, et al. In this experiment they evalated three factors - stratification period, amount of IBA and soil used. They took dormant 8” cuttings for this experiment. They found that a combination of no stratification time, a sand soil mix 1:1 and an IBA concentration of 100 mg/l got %100 success in rooting. After a 15 day stratification period, this was reduced to %91. They made note that how well a cutting is stored affects this rate of success. Factors such as attack from pathogens damage stored cuttings over time.

They did not discuss factors such as improved cold storage methods, humidity. So that is it in a nutshell. More details are discussed in the papers, but due to time and space limitations I thought that the basic successful principals would be most interesting. If you have a method that works, stick with it. Otherwise, there might be something interesting to consider from these research papers.

Ingevald

Gorgi
Can you elaborate on your statement " The shorter ones were just sitting loosely on a moist newspaper inside the bag - success. ".
Do you mean the cuttings were just lying on top of the newspaper inside the bag and the newspaper was not wrapped around the cuttings? Were the cuttings exposed to any light?
Wala, if it works without the newspaper wrapped around the cutting then it makes it a lot easy to watch for the mold signs (without opening the bag frequently to unwrap the newspaper other than letting the air in) and the "mold can be nipped in the bud" to save the buds on the cuttings.

Ottawan,
What you understood is correct.

Elaborating:
No light; the garbage bags were the black kind.
The roots I got were about 1" long, on the basal part of the twigs, and
sticking up in the air (perfect!) - AND not to the moist newspaper below!

The whole thing kind of reminded me of once where Jon
showed a garbage bin (lined with a garbage bag) full of
randomly thrown (normal sized) fig twigs...

Ingevald,
Now I do see your original intend of your thread as
'Bags for storage'  rather than ' bags for root generation'.
Sorry; and to help this thread from morphing as such
(there are many, many  threads about rooting figs),
this will be last comment about rooting (at least) here
(in this thread).


Gorgi
How long were the short ones sitting on moist newspaper (unwrapped) in the Ziploc?

Ottawan,
They took the average 3 week to root.
Also they were not in a Ziploc, they were in a 32 gallon garbage bag.
BTW, I had sent you a private email; if you did not receive it, contact
me (using your standard email server) at
gorg2[at]att[dot]net
[at] = @
[dot] = .

My trial of using molten GRAFTING wax was a disaster!
It just acts like glue that tends to stick everywhere (very bad for the baggie method)
(just ask Peg).
Probably the 'tiolet' wax will perform much worse.
Regular-normal candle wax will do just fine (Ottawan proved it);
and it makes sense, as it hardens very well.

Thinking hard, as somebody mentioned, latex paint may be good.
Not sure about the 'deck-sealer'; I have experienced some damage
on GREEN leaves while spraying it on my deck - not sure if same
is applicable on DORMANT wood.

Thinking harder still, I will try some SHELLAC stuff. Shellac
is an insect derived (protective cover) substance, soluble only in alcohol.
It is used mostly as a woodworking finish and electrical insulation.
Also some STAIN-hiding primer SEALER paints exist.
The  solvent alcohol  may be also somewhat disinfecting;
dries very QUICKLY, and the left over shellac coat
should be hard within a few minutes. --- perfect?!!?




Gorgi said "The  solvent alcohol  may be also somewhat disinfecting;
dries VERY quickly, and the left over shellac coat
should be hard within a few minutes".
Does it mean the alcohol will be used as a solvent for dissolving the the shellac to prepare the coat material?

Be careful with some of the alcohol-based products. I have seen some damage from desiccation by alcohol on some of my cuttings. Ethyl alcohol definately does some damage.

Shellac only dissolves in alcohol.
I have read that some fig people use alcohol to combat mold (rather than bleach)...

I just stumbled onto an interesting article about wax while researching the various types of waxes and the temperatures at which they melt. This article is titled, 'Antibacterial and Antifungal Effect of high pH and Paraffin wax Application on Tomatoes, Oranges and Peppers.' This is interesting because it discusses the antifungal effects of wax. They used a wax that melted at 122 deg F which is nice and low.
Anyway, there are certainly other articles of this nature. I just had not thought about searching for a paper on this particular aspect before.
http://www.academicjournals.org/AJB/PDF/pdf2007/19Mar/Magashi%20and%20Bukar.pdf

Take care,
Ingevald

Wax Research -

I decided to do some research on waxes and got in deeper than I expected, as usual. Commercially prepared wax is just fine - there are grafting waxes, the toilet seal wax, paraffin and other options. I explored formulas for grafting waxes which should be safe to use and likely will be antifungal. There are three sections of this note - 1) A list of basic ingredients and sources 2) Recipes and their sources. Lastly, if you do any mixing or heating of materials, it is at your own risk. Be aware of the dangers of heating up materials that can burn, and explode. Read all of the texts and seek additional assistance if you attempt to make any of these formulated waxes. Learn about double boiling, etc. Feel free to correct me if anything got screwed up.

There are different types of waxes for different purposes. There is the soft wax that is pliable at room temperature. There is the wax that needs to be melted and can be brushed on or with cuttings we could probably dip them.

While doing this research I also learned that there is now a soy based wax that is a low temperature melt wax. I could not find any data regarding its potential horticultural use.

First - The ingredients and where they might be found        
       
a) Resin, rosin, pine rosin, colophony, lump rosin - pretty much the same stuff. There is some variation in purity and source - it basically comes from pine trees. It can be found at artist stores, science supply outlets, violin supply, sports stores or ballet supply, etc. I actually had a difficult time finding it and finding inexpensive options. Here are a few scant links. http://www.danielsmith.com/products~sku~284120003.asp, http://shop2.chemassociates.com/shopsite/Chemassoc2/PAS-rosin.html http://www.somaluna.com/prod/colophony.asp?m=18
and an article from Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colophony

b) Paraffin - this is the easiest material to find at hobby stores, candle stores, etc. The wax comes in different melting temperatures from 125 deg F and up

c) Linseed oil - this can be found at health food stores. I would not recommend the material from hardware stores since the boiled linseed oil and related products usually have heavy metals added that are toxic.

d) Lamp black & powdered charcoal - artists supply store or make it yourself

e) Tallow - make it yourself or substitute linseed oil per the recommendations of the authors


Second - References and formulas

The Nursery Book - 1912 page 135
http://books.google.com/books?id=djFjAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA135&lpg=PA135&dq=resin+beeswax+tallow+propagation&source=bl&ots=Y-mFxfxIAv&sig=g5oHEwSgX-Te5FXG0xcgtPJL5v0&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=7&ct=result#PPA135,M1 Interesting assortment of recipes.


Modern Propagation of Tree Fruits 1916 page 82
http://books.google.com/books?id=stxEAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA82&lpg=PA82&dq=%22grafting+wax%22+soft+wax&source=bl&ots=TYlWhPAkmn&sig=qgc4hw9U3j4zKuaxqV-9MoLJ7-A&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=5&ct=result#PPA82,M1 Interesting standard fomulas

Modern Fruit Production, Joseph Harbey Gourley 2007 page 475
http://books.google.com/books?id=bgJRabNfspAC&pg=PA475&lpg=PA475&dq=%22grafting+wax%22+soft+wax&source=web&ots=8kqG6g1N2d&sig=9Xsm2-CEcx0gjjy6kYfIW8W1oqg&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=9&ct=result#PPA475,M1 A very good list of recipes.
Hand or soft wax - at room temp
rosin 4 parts
beeswax 2 parts
tallow 1 part or linseed in cold weather - increase rosin to harden
Brush Wax - thiner coat than hand wax ‘Parapin’
Neilson recipe

Rosin 1lb
linseed oil 3 fluid ounces
paraffin 5 lbs
Prior to Paraffin - brush wax forumla
rosin 5 parts
beeswax 1 part
linseed oil 1/4 part
Lamp black or powdered charcoal 1/2 part

Practical Woody Plant Propagation for Nursery Growers by Bruce MacDonald 1986
http://books.google.com/books?id=bdp2J-9E2EkC&pg=PA310&lpg=PA310&dq=waxing+%22hardwood+cuttings%22&source=bl&ots=iuxKX0gqWV&sig=Fy2G0vT1vcbs3uPXJHNE0AGTnNU&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA190,M1 This is one of the best resources since it does a thorough job of categorizing the waxes starting on page 189.

Pecan Culture in Florida 1911
http://fcit.usf.edu/florida/docs/p/pecan2.htm "Good grafting wax may be made according to either of the following formulas:"
1) Resin 6 pounds, beeswax 2 pounds, linseed oil 1 pint.
2) Resin 4 pounds, beeswax 2 pounds, tallow I pound.

After reading through all of this I have an idea where I might start. If that fails, I will use either some variety of commercial grafting wax, plain paraffin or the toilet sealing wax which I have already discovered sticks badly to plastic bags!

Ingevald

quoting gorgi,
"The whole thing kind of reminded me of once where Jon
showed a garbage bin (lined with a garbage bag) full of
randomly thrown (normal sized) fig twigs..."

I was thinking the same thing about lots of cuttings jumbled in a garbage bag.  Is there any chance that fig cuttings, like apples, off-gas and that the off-gas (whatever gas it is) promotes rooting, in the same way ethylene gas promotes ripening of apples?  Now I need to get a garbage bag full of cuttings and try it out. :-)  And maybe put some in with some apples to see if that has any effect :-).  Ok, maybe kidding about the apples.

Seriously though, I wonder if the high volume of air, dark, moist, sealed environment and number of cuttings makes a difference.  If ammino acids are breaking down, then there must be some off-gassing of some sort, unless the amminos are going to form other things, like initials, roots, leaves, buds, etc... 

Anyone with lots of cuttings up for an experiment?

One last thought about wax, does anyone know anything about the wax they spray on apples/fruit to extend storage life?  I would think a spray applied wax would be good, as it would not require heating, and would not damage the cutting.  I think it is a food grade wax of some sort.  Here's a link:
http://www.usapple.org/consumers/wax.cfm
I see it is a food-grade parafin most of the time...
Which led me to consider food grade mineral oil (won't go rancid).  Read about it here: http://whatscookingamerica.net/CuttingBoards/AllAbout.htm

Heirloom -
Thanks for your posting. I can't answer your questions about the effect of ethylene gas on rooting. Perhaps someone else has an answer.
Your thoughts on wax are interesting. When I was researching waxes I was trying to find out about how fruit waxes are applied and how they are made. I likely did not look hard enough, but only seemed to encounter industrial processes or extremely large quantities of the material and did not find answers to my questions. I would assume that the thin fruit waxes would be excellent for application on fig cuttings - just my untested opinion based on what I have read so far.
The mineral oil is also another interesting idea that needs some research. I did run across this material as I was researching waxes. It is 'safe' but I was looking at it as possible additive to paraffin, to bring down the melting temperature and not as a stand alone application. You would need to determine if the liquid mineral oil penetrates the cutting and causes damage. Sorry I don't have any more answers at this time.

By the way, I made a batch of 'grafting wax' from one of the formulas above using paraffin, resin & linseed oil. So far it seems to work pretty well, but need to wait till I have successfully started some cuttings before I can truly report on the success or failure of this project. One good thing is that it does not stick to plastic bags like the toilet sealing wax! I can always use the left over product for grafting!

Ingevald

I really liked this old thread.  Last year I decided to try waxing cuttings and painting cuttings as a way of preventing mold.
I used latex paint at various dilutions.
I also used a candle wax called "glass wax" and a wax used on cheese rounds.
While I had some success, I still do better using moist long-fiber sphagnum moss.
Sorry I did not get this info out prior to the great Encanto cutting release.  Likely noone else was fool enough to try these ideas anyway.

Kyle

Since I sometimes get a few cuttings at a time, so instead of preparing wax for sealing the terminals of a few cuttings, I have started using (school) wood glue on the cut tips. I do not know the porosity of the wood glue but it seems easy good solution.
I am planning a few clef grafts on smaller branches of plums this summer and I will try the wood glue as sealant just because of its ease of use.

Toilet wax seal is economical and easy to apply. Just drop the wax ring into hot water from the tap. Walla, it is soft in 5 minutes.
Just rub the cutting end(s) on it or used a putty knife or a flat head screw driver to apply a coating of wax to the exposed end(s).

I was just wondering about this subject this week.

I am also wondering about using coconut oil.  It's a solid, but as soon as the temps reach about 72, it liquifies.   I could see dipping entire scions in coconut oil, just warmed to liquification, and throwing them in a lined garbage pail together, snuggly fitted with a lid.

Coconut oil has antibacterial properties, and coming from a plant, would be more likely to contain beneficial things for plant life....   Just thinking on things here, no scientific experiments to back them up. 

I hope to try this next year. 



I have used parafilm (wax strips) on a couple partially rooted suckers, to keep them from drying out till they were fully rooted. That worked well.

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