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Help with rescue of root bound fig tree

I couldn't help purchasing a Hardy Chicago fig tree at a local nursery a couple of weeks ago.  It was 4' tall loaded with figs that looked like they would be ready very soon.
I knew right there I shouldn't have since there was 3 trees in a 2.5 gal container each about 4' and loaded with figs.  But I thought I could separate them in the fall and get 3 plants meanwhile I might get a fig or two.  It turns out 1 of them is not Hardy Chicago but an interesting unknown.

Brought them home and took them out of the pot.  What a mess.  The pot was completely full of roots almost no soil.  The roots completely encircled and intertwined.  I can see no way to separate the 3 plants.  I planted them as is in ground for now so as not to disturb them.   Made sure to cover them with a foot of soil to keep them from drying out. 

Since then the leaves wilt everyday, I give them a bucket of water and they perk up for the night.  This has been going on for 2 weeks.  Now most of the figs have turned colour but are dried out inside and are falling off.

Hoping to get some ideas on the best way to save these fig trees?

Lincoln-20140713-00188.jpg 
Lincoln-20140713-00189.jpg 


Cut the figs off,
so the tree directs its energy into development below the ground,
not above the ground.
A light application of diluted liquid fertilizer would help.

That sounds like a good start thanks HungryJack!

  • Rob

I guess you're OK in your climate zone planting in ground.  But a lot of folks up north grow in pots. 

For long term health, probably best to root prune the tree.  This involves trimming any long circling roots, etc.  There are posts on this forum that go into great detail on ways of doing this.  If you root prune in the summer you will almost certainly drop all the figs and perhaps all the leaves as well. 

However, looking at those leaves, they have already been heat stressed this summer, probably because of what you suggested, there is too much tree for the pot size. 

But you have some options:
1. Root prune now.  Tree will probably drop all fruit and leaves, but will likely survive and put on a flush of new growth this summer.  Any new growth should be well supported by the new, improved root system and you'll be fine until winter.  However, I'm guessing your frost comes fairly early, so the new growth might not be hardened off enough.  This means the new tender growth will die back.  Since tree might not survive winter, and you've got too much top growth anyway, I would take some cuttings and put in cups or pots as a backup for next spring. 
2. Put those guys back into pots and make sure you water them every day.  Keep the pots shaded, and the leaves in partial sun.  They should make it through to the winter.  You might even get a couple figs.  Then put them in a garage or other similar protected location for winter.  In the spring, right as the first buds start to break, do a full root pruning and then plant in their permanent locations. 

You do need to think about fertilization, but water is the more immediate concern.  If the leaves don't get the water they need for an extended period of time, they will eventually drop off.  This is the plant's survival mechanism.

Transplant stress. Your
Tree should be fine after it adapts. I wouldn't fertilize it. Just put mulch around it. It'll help regulate the water to the tree. Make sure you are watering deeply.

Hi Rob
Thanks I like your option 2.  
Put them back as is in a larger container with some fresh soil/compost and keep them in the shade and see how they do the rest of the summer.  There are so many branches that I could also try an air layer (if it is not too late in the season?).
Then root prune and separate them in the spring.

If you want to repot,
then separate the 3 trees now,
this acts like a partial root prune.
Pot them up, shade, water, light fertilization.

Early next spring, root prune
and repot/plant them in their new home/container
for the next few years.

If your trees were severely root bound with little soil in the container
they were NOT extracting nutrients from the soil,
but living on what was available from watering.
Will take a while for these roots to grow out into the soil,
and start extracting nutrients,
so give them what they have been living on,
water with some fertilizer in it.

Your advise makes a lot of sense but I am worried that by disturbing the roots by separating the severely root bound trees now will kill trees?

Would it not be better to do this in fall (or spring) after dormancy?

I would say there is a very small possibility of killing the trees,
figs are very resilient.
Will probably help, as it will initiate new root growth as well.
Doing this now, will better prepare your trees for next year.

I would pass on any airlayering this year,
if you want to propagate, take some cuttings in the fall.

OK Thanks, will try it! 
Hope I end up getting 1 fig from the unknown one so I can identify it.

Later in the season, take pictures of all the leaf variants
on your unknown, that will also help with identification.

Good Luck

Will do.  Think I better take some photos now before the leaves all fall off and then as it grows back.
Thanks 

Whatever fertilizer you use, (ie Miracle Grow)
mix it at 1/4 strength and use once a week.
Can follow this regime until mid/late august,
then no more fertilizer.

Also, when you are going to fertilize,
its better if you give the plants a small shot
of plain water first,   then water them with the fertilized water.

 

I am using MG general purpose. 
Thanks again for the tips what a great figs forum!

Advise taken.  Here they are resting in the shade after their major surgery.
The 3 fig trees were separated and planted in individual pots (3 gal, 3 gal and 7 gal).  The trees had large root balls all tangled up.  I managed to pull cut them apart.  Each tree ended up with large root ball and I untangled what I could and pulled out all the roots that got cut.   Al in all I feel good about doing this.
Will keep them in the shade and give them some fertilizer in a few days.  Expect they will drop their leaves and hopefully will put on some new growth.
Its amazing these 3 large trees (3', 4' and 5') could fit in a 2.5 gal 12" pot.

 cropped Lincoln-20140718-00195.jpg 

cropped Lincoln-20140718-00194.jpg 


Congratulations on completing a challenging project. I admire your work. Good luck!

Ditto on the congrats - its a great project for you. Good luck! Niagara, as in Niagara on the Lake Ontario? Great place to raise figs and cherry trees!  Joe

the tallest to the right is identical to one I had here.  I leaned the pot on a brick, making it at 45 degree angle.  A bunch of new side shoots sprouted, now I have a tree with lower formation of branches.   I would keep them in a semi shaded area to 'rest' from the transplanting shock. Good luck with them.

It felt great to separate them and get 3 fig trees (looks like 2 varieties) 2 hardy Chicago, 1 looks like dalmatie but the fruit turned a dark colour although that may be from the stress.  Thanks for the encouragement Donna!

Yes Joe, Niagara as in close to Niagara on the lake.  I am surrounded by cherry and peach trees.  Cherries are finishing now but may get an early red peach in a couple of days:)

Thanks Grasa that's a great idea!  Should be a natural to grow in-ground that way for easy covering in the winter.



Nice job.
Your trees will thank you next year with a nice crop.

If you are going to grow any of them in tree form,
now is a good time to stake and tie.

Give them some fertilizer,  you won't burn anything,
just give them a little plain water first,  then fert.

Thanks Hungryjack I wouldn't have done it without your advise.

I will stake and tie to support them!

Looks like you got 3 nice trees from that single pot.
I usually keep transplanted figs for 1 week in the shade 1 week in part sun and then go to full sun.

you mind as well cut the yellow leaves off. The tree will put out new one faster than you can say Mississippi. The next time you want to plant a tree in mid summer, alway alway always, soak the roots in liquid hormone for at least 45mins. Then plant it in the ground at dusk or night. Block direct sun for at least a week....maybe more.

Good luck with your tree.

Great points Rich!

Dennis,
I can barely say Mississauga (city north of me) or massasauga (our local rattle snake)  I'll work on saying Mississippi after that.. haha
Yellow leaves off.  y the way is there a product name for the liquid hormone?  What does the hormone do for the plant?
thanks

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