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High Tunnel Advantages

I've been reading this forum for a while and new to the fig game. I've recently picked up a pair of Violet de Bordeaux figs from edible landscape and have them potted up in three gallon pots. I've stuck them in my High Tunnel as the daytime temps are in the high 70's with a good day of sun.

Besides the trees waking up earlier than being outside or under a grow light, what other advantages are there for growing in a high tunnel? I've searched online but have not found much information.

welcome to the forum. no clue what additional advantage high tunnel will have since i don't use one. i just put them in the garage and they break bud around late feb or so here. for colder area, i guess getting the tree to wake up early and protecting them from freeze is the main advantage of the hoop house or high tunnel.

Mike, welcome to the forum.

HEllo, I have heard rumors that raspberries do much better in a HT because it protects them from rain and the fungus it causes, making the berries last much longer. I assume figs are about the same since they both have thin skins and all. Care to share any pictures?


Welcome to the forum Mike.

I would think humidity would be higher as well. 

This may not be an issue for many of you, but here in the desert, our humidity is in the teens and 20's much of the time.  That, along with  wind, is hard on fig trees.  Most of them survive it ok, but I've noticed they do better in more humid conditions.

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, humidity is very high as I have condensation dripping from the plastic on the inside during the day.

I just created this album of the High Tunnel. The figs are just sticks with buds starting to swell, not much to look at really.

https://picasaweb.google.com/112045070591403359443/April12013?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMzRqZawjpCMnwE&feat=directlink

Welcome Mike. Your pictures are awesome. Good luck growing!

Very nice.  Now I want one.  Was this a kit?

That is a nice setup. Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing.

The high tunnel will do the same in the fall as well and extend your season on both ends. That is if it's big enough, I'd like to see your pictures but the stupid internet filter at work blocks all videos and most of the pictures that aren't on this site.

wow.. i wouldn't mind something like that. that will save space during the winter. our temp here last few year has been so mild, i'm sure that will be good enough to keep the trees safe during the winter.

No kit. If your of intelligence level is on par with a fifth grader, you should be able to create one with ease. The most expensive part is the top rail fence pipe. Home Depot or Lowes sells them for $18 and change, and you need two to make one arc. One arc every 4 ft. I was able to find cut off 4 mil plastic on FarmTeks closeout and discount section. Same stuff they sell in large rolls, just odd sizes, which worked out for me. I changed things up a bit and improved things here and there. Total cost might be $800. It's 18 X 10 and more than happy with it.

You can find the pipe bender here with general instructions on how-to http://www.hoopbenders.net/

Excess humidity may not be good for ripening figs depending on the types you get.  Also, if you're going to take the plants out of the high tunnel they're going to need time to adapt to the lower humidity.  Not to mention the mold risk.  You'd be better off ventilating it.

I believe Jeff Foxworthy proved we're not usually as smart as a 5th grader. My hubby could probably do it but I would be lost. LOL

Thanks for sharing your photos, Mike, looks great!

I've been thinking of building a tunnel for my dragon fruit (pitaya) but only want it covered from November until April (I just need maybe 5 degrees of protection).  How easy do you think it would be to remove the film and put it back on?  How did you fasten your poly?  I can't see kerf strips on your tubing like described in the instructions at tubebenders.net, though that might just be a matter of me now having a close enough view in your photos.  I see rope cross-crossing over the poly and have previously seen some site with instructions for a long tunnel using this sort of method to fasten poly but don't remember quite how it worked to know if it is removable or not.  I don't want dragon fruit covered except for in the cold months because even a slight decrease in sunlight results in a significant drop in flowering/production.

Thanks again,

Harvey

Poly lock for fastening plastic to the structure is the best to strength and ease to put on and off, be careful because it can poke holds in your plastic if you're not careful.

Seeing there was such interest in the High Tunnel I went back and took some more pictures and added them to the gallery.

You can see from the endwall and door picture I used Batten tape. Its a polypropolene woven tape that you just put over the poly plastic and staple. Quick and easy, and I'll take the plastic off the door for the summer to help vent.

Along the hip board ( sides) I used wiggle wire as it's a much better fastening system than the batten tape. The high tunnel has survived Hurricane Sandy and the Blizzard with no issues at all. The zig zag rope going over the top of the plastic was put in place to prevent the plastic from slapping back and forth. I picked this idea up from watching the videos on Johnny's Seed about high tunnels, well worth the 10 bucks worth of rope.

The plastic below the hip board rolls up to help control heat and venting. You can roll them up 6 inches, or all the way if needed. Google high tunnel roll up sides to see better examples.

Temperature swing is huge when the sun starts to shine. I've seen upwards of 35 degree difference of inside and outside. Night time is the problem as it is unheated and temps are just a bit higher than they are outside.

Fig tree is waking up with the warm temps. Warmest it's been that I know of is 85 and that was this past Saturday.

I'm not sure if what I've done would be considered a "high tunnel" but it is a tunnel. I had a potting shelf so I added heating coils and topped that with moist cedar mulch. I then drilled pilot holes into 2x4's and nailed in 8" spikes. I made the hoops out of 1" irrigation pipe inserted into 1.25" irrigation pipe. I doubled it up like that because when I tried just the 1" it was too flimsy and kinked in the middle. I covered it in $10 of plastic and added a thermostat, room heater, and wireless thermometer that I can watch from inside. It does get into the 90's in there during the day but I guess that's ok. I do not have a cooling fan, maybe next year. I guess the whole thing was about $400, but don't tell my wife she thinks it's more like $200. I have about 200 figs in there now with plans for another 80 or so soon. Can you say obsessed??? I will be trading fully potted trees soon, so let me know if you are interested.

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10 days from original post and I've added some photos to the gallery to show the rapid growth of the two VbD figs. One had just a leaf forming, and the other was pretty much just a stick. I'm impressed with how these guys are taking off. Last two photos in the album show their progress.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112045070591403359443/albums/5861854114048199921

Extending your season wil get you a lot more figs and will alow you to ripen figs that might not otherwise ripen in your area.  It's a huge benefit.  Best of luck with it.  Where are you?

For those wondering and as a reference, I've added some photos along with everything else growing in the high tunnel. Figs are starting to leaf out nicely.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112045070591403359443/albums/5861854114048199921

You fig won't be eaten by bird +++, 
I am going to build a hoophouse with metal pipe. The size is 24x30. This is my major project this year.

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