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horizontal rooting ?

When using the baggie method with sphagnum moss and the initails go the length of the cutting should I cut it in pieces and pot it horizontal,, if so how long should the pieces be??

after having a hair-raising experience or two with some MBVS cuttings last year, trimming them post-rooting, i wouldn't personally recommend cutting cuttings after they've already rooted.

can you identify how long the cuttings are that you're speaking of?  i'm asking b/c i'm curious if would it be possible to bury the entire cutting vertically rather than horizontal.  not that it matters either way, just curious.

Hey Jason

I have some short panache as big around as my pinky and some other types that are as long as the bottom of a gal baggie.

Its my first time rooting (even have some of yours I'm trying) and i thought you had to have a node exposed to the air for it to leaf out.. if it works just the same I will plant them vert..

Do you plant thee bottom end of the cutting deep and knock off the roots on the exposed part??

Thanks, Grant.

I'll share my experience and the experience that JD shared regarding a stick of panachee last year's rooting.

Last year, we both received a huge single-node hunk of panachee.  When I say "hunk", I mean this single-node cutting (mine wasn't even a full node) was, like, 5"+ long and bigger around than "Big Bubba's" thumb.

JD planted vertical, I went horizontal.  If I recall correctly, he buried just under the ground vertically, I buried mine horizontally in a chinese take-out tray with just the top 5% of the cutting exposed (with the nodes on either side barely covered.

Long story short, I fought like hell to keep the cutting sufficiently wet.  My cutting died within 3 weeks of rooting, and it produced some really strong roots also.

JD's survived much longer, and I think it may have actually come to fruition (he'd need to jump in and confirm).

I can tell you from experience that you do not need to have a node exposed to air to root and send a shoot up.  Think about it - people have trees die to the ground all the time, no nodes exposed...and they still grow back. 

Nodes will break below ground and grow up.  if you root enough cuttings, you'll see this happen with buried nodes on some of your cuttings.  You can get some pretty strong trees growing this way.

I personally prefer to root vertically, just for the fact that watering is not such a critical component.  I know that some guys like Jose (loslunasfarms) have a killer method for horizontal rooting.... I haven't spent the time trying to replicate or figure out my own.  Vertical rooting just seems easier to me.

One issue is that horizontal rooting take up a lot more space.

I would bury the entire cutting vertical with the top just at the surface of the pot. I like to use two liter soda bottles or milk jug for such a cutting. just make sure to cover the outside of the plastic bottle to keep sun off the delicate roots. I wrap mine in foil.

I am tinking you would end up with a better root system with most all of the cutting under ground.

If you have the space outside and a long cutting where the nodes are several inches apart you can plant them horizontals directly in the ground. Leave them in ground the whole season. If you had lets say 12 nodes it is possible to have 12 new plants. When you carefully dig this cutting up you should be able to separate into individual plants.

Al
Burlington County NJ
Z6

I have about 10 varieties buried horizontally in 16 oz cups mostly, with a few in Glad storage containers. I just planted them straight in 70/30 perlite, seed starter mix, just below the surface. They are sitting in a closed container. Never starting them in any matter. Just straight in. Some were completely buried. Some were slightly exposed. The one that didn't root so far might have been buried too deep.

The cuttings are about 3 inches long with at least 3 nodes. Some in containers are a bit longer.

I mist them every few days so the surface doesn't dry out too much, until I see roots. After I just wait til the moisture on inside evaporates, then I water when necessary.

I have thin and thick roots appearing.

I have a Siclian Red ( Thanks Northeastnewbie) in a quart Glad container that is EXPLODING with roots.  

This has been the Most successful way to root for me.
___________
Dominick
Zone 6a-MA

NYPD be careful you can overwater and kill the roots by misting the top as it dries out. Remember the top will dry out and underneath will still hold water. I measure my pots water retention by weight now but in the beginning i would use a water meter or just stick my finger down into the media. if media stuck to my finger it was wet enough.
Those Sicilian reds are a sure winner for a beginner now dont get upset with other varients if they are slow rooters or bad rooters. I have had some take two months to pop roots.

Yeah that is the key-not to overwater. So far, so good!

Hey Al I have many acres to plany on. I was thinking about diging a trench and putting fig logs in a line to see what happens..

I put a lot of cuttings in an old chicken egg incubator at 75 deg and didnt check it for a few days, when I did a few of the cuttings had got out of hand

I have some cuttings I'm just going to stick in the sandy ground and see if anything happens.its about 100 yards from the spigot at the edge of the yead but I have that much hose so no worries,, well maybe a few worries it the deer want to munch them and if the goats get out I know they will go to town on any tree or shrub....... I put a couple cuttings in the ground with marker tape labels,, I guess the puppies thought I put them out there for them to play with

Hi Grant

I live in the deer woods and the only damage i have is when the new growth starts and a yearling comes through not knowing what it is that take one nibble and never touch it again. I do not know what goats will do since they will eat most anything. I have all my fruit trees in the fenced in back yard. The Red Peach is in front and the deer love them when they ripen. When I plant in the back yard I have to keep the dogs in the house, if they see me digging they will come behind and dig up whatever I have planted. No problem when they don't see me.

Al
Burlington County NJ
Z6

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  • JD

Grant (and Jason),

That single node panache (or is it panachee?) is doing very well. Once they come out of hibernation, I will post a photo of the roots. I have also rooted horizontally with success. Once I learned to water control, rooting was great (in sphagnum) for everything except Black Ischia.

Does the name, Panache (chee) come from the word, panache, meaning, flair, or style, or elan?  That would be fitting for a striped fig.

noss

It's a common typo, it should be "Panachee", not "Panache"

Panachee = "Mixed" in French.
Panache = "Flambouyant" or "Style" or "Ornamental feather/tuft" in English.

I think it's clear which is "more fun" and which is "more fitting"  ;)

Will laying the cutting on potting mix, covering it with a moist sphagnum moss and putting some sort of cover over the pot to keep the moss moist work??

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