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Ruuting

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hello everyone.
I recently mentioned a technique for rehydrating dried up cuttings, and I've gotten several messages from people wanting to know the details of the procedure used by Gustav Eisen.
Attached is an excerpt from his 1901 work about the fig.
I haven't tried this technique, but I would encourage those who try it to post results and observations.

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Rui
Southeast CT, zone 6B

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Great info and worth the try if it means saving the cutting.
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Canada - Zone 5a

Wish List - Anything Italian. Calabria or Abruzzo regions.
javajunkie

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Wow, I like the idea but wonder if putting in a complete dark place would suffice for digging a 2 foot deep hole and digging it back up again.
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Tami
SE Texas
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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Ruuting,
Thanks for starting this topic.

I had not seen this before, but have tried hydrating cuttings in both cold (refrigerator crisper drawer) and warm (~75 deg F) conditions with very good results. The cuttings were placed in dripping wet Long Fibered Sphagnum moss for at least 3 days in both temperatures. It decreased rooting times by one week for stored cuttings that were over 6 months old.

BTW, the water temperature should be between 120 deg and 140 deg F. if it's "hot as the hands can possibly bear".
Ruuting

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Thank you Pete, my pleasure.
I hope lots of people try it, maybe it's a good second chance for our rare cuttings.
I soaked my second batch of cuttings in lukewarm water for a couple of hours.
My last batch will get a hot water treatment, as these will have been in refrigerator storage
as long as 5 months, and I can afford to try it, because most will be spares of varieties that rooted on the first two attempts.
It's reassuring to know the cuttings can take such high temperatures.

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Rui
Southeast CT, zone 6B
Ruuting

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Tami, it kind of sounds like the technique could be modified, these are the instructions of a pro, who would not normally baby his cuttings as much as we do, so I'm thinking of doing the soaking, and proceeding with my normal sphagnum method.
There are some interesting possibilities.
This book also has a lot of good info on Caprifigs, I know you're interested in that.
I got it in paperback, but because it's so old, you can probably find an e-reader format for free somewhere on the interwebs
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Rui
Southeast CT, zone 6B
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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Very interesting. Here's a link to download the book:

https://archive.org/details/figitshistorycul00eise
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Jeff Central OH- Zone 6a Wish list-anything that will ripen in zone 6a.Souadi(obsessed with this one), Takoma Violet, Col de Dame anything -currently rooting: MBVS, DK, RdB, VdB. “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed, citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” ― Margaret Mead
lampo

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Rui,
Very good piece of information, Thank you .
Apparently, thermal therapy can also be administered to figs to control FMV.

Francisco
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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Very interesting ... Good info
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john
Zone 7a
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Rui, thanks for sharing this info. I find it interesting that the author recommends sand, which is never discussed here. Also, I'm not following the reason for the 2' hole.
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USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b

Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
Ruuting

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Sand is used for grape cuttings, it does seem strange that more people don't use it for figs.
As I interpreted it, the burying under two feet of soil seems to be about keeping a constant temperature (warm soil?) of low 70's, to prevent mold.
I like the concept of using sand around the cutting, and soil below, so roots drop when they're ready to drink.

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Rui
Southeast CT, zone 6B
DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
This is the way of the forefathers.  We try to mess it up with our grow lights, sphagnum, etc., but bury the cutting.  It will grow.  Simple! 

This works for me, in a Mediterranean climate, but for those who do not live in such a place, I doubt this will work.  Will be interesting to know if those living in cold climates find this method successful.

Suzi
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Zone 9b, Southern California. "First year they sleep, Second year they creep, Third year they leap!"  Wish List:  I wish all of you happy fig collecting!  My wishes have been fulfilled!
figarita

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks Rui and Jeff for the info. In the past I've been using wet sand to rehydrate a cutting but I did not know about hot water. I have a couple of dry cuttings and I'll try this technique minus digging and burrying :-)
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Pat Menlo Park , CA zone 9
jdsfrance

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
Hi,
Nice info, but as some say, when it is meant to rot... So will it be .
In my climate sand does not work, as we all tend to over water the sand which lead to rot - that is my experience and as well written in that book.
Funny, people tend to think that sand is a draining material, when it is not - think of your sand cattle on the beach ...

The next chapter is about seeds - and that one is at least partially false - you don't need a caprifig to get seeds... See my post on "pollination myth kill" .
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Climate from -25°C to + 35°C
Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here
Norhayati

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
I am trying this using my xin jiang and black madeira. The only difference is both my cuttings dried up after I up pot them, that means both have grown roots.

Norhayati
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eboone

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Just wanted to report some success with a variant on this method.

I had 2 cuttings of an unknown given to me by a generous forummer that were in a plastic bag with moist towel for almost 8 weeks with no results.  They still looked fine.  After reading this I said 'why not'!  I put the 2 cuttings in water that was just slightly hotter than I could stand my hands in for more than a few seconds (out of my faucet), and a few hrs later after the water had reached room temp I put them in a plastic box with slightly moist perlite.  In 10 days both had started small roots. 

Not planning to conduct a set of controlled experiments, but it might be something to help cuttings that are not responding.
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Ed
Zone 6A - Southwest PA     
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Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid),  Col Littman's Black Cross.   And any cold hardy early fig.
Smyfigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
I will try it!
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Meg-Hardiness Zone 10a

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Socorro Blk
Wuhan 
Jolly Tiger
Lamperia Preta
Herschtetten
St. Jean
Black Ischia

"The best way to show my gratitude is to accept everything, even my problems, with joy." ~ Mother Teresa  
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JohnnyTX

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Very interesting, I will try it out. Thanks for sharing.
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Zone 8b
Current fig: Jack Lilley, Golden Celeste
Wish list: Col de Dame (any), Smith, Black Medeira
rmulhero

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Great technique! This is why I love talking to other fig growers, these little secrets can make all the difference :)
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Becky, zone 5
Growing: Hardy Chicago, VdB, Dessert King, Celeste, Green Ischia, Marseilles VS, Kathleen's Black, Red Sicilian, Adriatic JH, Violetta bayerfeinge, New Brunswick, Magnolia and Italian Honey.

Wishlist: Sicilian Black JR, Petite Negra, Sweet George, Lattarula, Sals Corleone (Gene),  Vasilika sika, Galicia negra, Dalmatie and any cold hardy fig.
joann1536

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
I might give it a shot, too.
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USDA Zone 9b
Wish list:  Abruzzi, Pasquale, Tagliacozzo, Zingarella, Godfather. Any unk Italian, especially from Abruzzo.
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