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How to stimulate nodal activity?

I received a single rare cutting and split it in two to stretch it. The bottom part I rooted in Spaghnum moss and it developed some nice roots at the bottom. I transferred the cutting into sifted perlite in a clear cup under a humidity dome last nite, under artificial lighting. There are 2-3 former leaf nodes further up the cutting (pic to follow) but they are bone dry, with no sign of a bud. Is there anything I can do to stimulate nodal growth? Will buds eventually form if I do nothing? I once read that "notching" can stimulate nodal growth....

Thank you all for you attention!

very weak MG fertilizer. bottom fed. i have one cutting that's not doing much. it has good callus, but no root. i put it in the cup since no other activity. i'll be feeding it today along with few other today to see if it response.

Yes I am feeding a nutrient rich water to the perlite cups, but is this enough????

If it's got roots that's a good start

Keeping the temp up in the chamber and under lights will stimulate growth

If the nodes are not viable I've seen 3 things happen 1) another node near the original will grow or 2) a sprout will come up from below the perlite 3) nothing happens

I would just let it sit in a warm chamber undisturbed

Here is the picture, you can see 2 nodes.

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I heard about the notching, too, Rafael. It was explained that notching above a node disrupts the flow of auxins from the terminal bud which inhibit growth; the lower node is then permitted to bud out. If your cutting doesn't have a tip bud, I wonder if that would work ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Here is the picture, you can see 2 nodes.


I've had cuttings that looked worse than that grow leaves recently

Rafael,
IMO, nothing to do but just leave it alone and provide warmth and a humid environment with minimal or no water at this stage because it has no leaves, but just enough water to keep the roots moist.

The top node will probably not provide a bud because it was cut diagonally and the pith is exposed at the top. The top of fig cuttings will always die back to the next intact node. I Usually seal the top node with wax to keep it from drying out, and only cut at a diagonal above a node, if needed, when they are moved outside, to help with rain runoff.
Fig_CuttingPrep_1.jpg Fig_CuttingPrep_2.jpg Fig_CuttingPrep_3.jpg 

Notching is only used with actively growing branches to redirect the auxins (hormones) that are produced in the growing apex (Apical bud). Notching will only harm a cutting by damaging the bark. Also I usually remove the tips of cuttings to get faster budding and growth.

What are the nutrients in your "nutrient rich water"? Thanks.


Thank you Pete. The strained perlite in cups (suggested by Richin NJ) seems to help nurture my cuttings a lot better than putting them into Sips with a soil/perlite mix, where I have sustained just too many losses this winter. The nutrient I add to my watering pitcher is called Cornucopia plus and I recommend it for any rooted cutting and recent transplant. I get it at my local hydroponic store, 1/4 tsp in a 1/2 gallon pitcher of aged water is what I give my "survivors"

Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Thank you Pete. The strained perlite in cups (suggested by Richin NJ) seems to help nurture my cuttings a lot better than putting them into Sips with a soil/perlite mix, where I have sustained just too many losses this winter. The nutrient I add to my watering pitcher is called Cornucopia plus and I recommend it for any rooted cutting and recent transplant. I get it at my local hydroponic store, 1/4 tsp in a 1/2 gallon pitcher of aged water is what I give my "survivors"


:)

Rafael,
You're welcome.
Thanks for the reply, I couldn't find an actual analysis for Cornucopia plus.

Most methods will work for growing fig cuttings including planting directly in ground. The Perlite method has a long documented history here on the forum http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag_New_Style.html . Any method when followed properly will increase success rates.

yes, I've been experimenting with mini-SIPs, with the test cuttings they are currently at a 100% success rate, but that is only with 10 plants. I am currently expanding that mini-SIP test.

Here's a picture of 2 plants in the initial 2 liter SIP test that was started in January... They are watered with dilute Miracle Grow General Purpose fertilizer @ 1 Teaspoon / Gallon of water. The reservoirs are currently refilled (with 6 oz of solution) when they are empty.
2 liter SIPs_3-23-14.jpg  .


It looks like it is upside down to me, the leaf scar is above the buds.

Hey Brent I have the top part of the cutting in root cube, am pretty sure it is not upside down, the roots came out below at the bottom of what was the original, longer cutting, that seems to make sense to me.

I am pretty sure, have a look at this. http://figs4fun.com/More_Info_Cutting_Direction.html

I see-you think the bud is below the leaf scar instead of above it, which would make it upside down. I will go check it a little closer but the diagonal cut I made myself mid-cutting, below the apical bud, if the diagonal was at the bottom this would make sense but I am pretty sure I did not make a second diagonal at the bottom that could cause upside-downness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ascpete
Rafael,
You're welcome.
Thanks for the reply, I couldn't find an actual analysis for Cornucopia plus.

Most methods will work for growing fig cuttings including planting directly in ground. The Perlite method has a long documented history here on the forum http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag_New_Style.html . Any method when followed properly will increase success rates.

yes, I've been experimenting with mini-SIPs, with the test cuttings they are currently at a 100% success rate, but that is only with 10 plants. I am currently expanding that mini-SIP test.

Here's a picture of 2 plants in the initial 2 liter SIP test that was started in January... They are watered with dilute Miracle Grow General Purpose fertilizer @ 1 Teaspoon / Gallon of water. The reservoirs are currently refilled (with 6 oz of solution) when they are empty.
2 liter SIPs_3-23-14.jpg  .


There are significant differences between my method and the "Rooting Bag New Style". For one thing mine is repeatable and anyone can do it if they have $ and can follow directions. Simply grouping together every method that has perlite in it and saying they are the same is like saying anything with a roof is a house.

IMHO SIPs are not a very good way to grow cuttings and I'm doubting if there is any benefit to using it over irrigation for mature plants. One thing that people have failed to recognize is the high concentrations of salts that result and are never washed way.

Rich, you have never tried one of Bill's pots? You really cannot argue with his results, salt or no. Also, some folks here on the forum do not stop at mg fertilizer, vince adds azomite, eg.

As for the perlite, I will politely mention that while I am not "rooting" in perlite, and therefore the new baggie method is not what I meant when I applauded your methods. I am more interested in the aspect of your ideas about growing cuttings into 2-foot trees in pure perlite, as you have stated to me. Instead of killing rooted cuttings by transplanting them I hope they will grow vigorous roots in perlite and then I will transplant them as per your instructions later. I think there is some imbalance in my indoor eco-system so I have to do what works and this works. Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoosierbanana
I am pretty sure, have a look at this. http://figs4fun.com/More_Info_Cutting_Direction.html


I agree and although camera angles can be deceiving, I think the top looks wider than the base which is another indication it may be upside down.

I agree with Brent that based on the node at the end of cutting it does appear to be upside down.  However, it's hard to see other buds which you would need to look at to be absolutely sure.  I can understand how this would happen if the roots are forming at "top" of the cutting.

To save me some searching could someone post the link to the thread describing Rich's method using strained perlite in cups?  Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Rich, you have never tried one of Bill's pots? You really cannot argue with his results, salt or no. Also, some folks here on the forum do not stop at mg fertilizer, vince adds azomite, eg.

As for the perlite, I will politely mention that while I am not "rooting" in perlite, and therefore the new baggie method is not what I meant when I applauded your methods. I am more interested in the aspect of your ideas about growing cuttings into 2-foot trees in pure perlite, as you have stated to me. Instead of killing rooted cuttings by transplanting them I hope they will grow vigorous roots in perlite and then I will transplant them as per your instructions later. I think there is some imbalance in my indoor eco-system so I have to do what works and this works. Thank you.


Hi Rafael
I have two of Bills pots and my results from last year we not that great. Combine that with the hydro girl I see in Nyack not being too impressed with SIPs led me to conclude other methods were better. Her family has been in the business for 20 years. They supply vegetable growing green houses that supply restaurants in NYC

Growing 2 footers is a no effort exercise in perlite with hydro and good lighting like think you have. I know you don't care for heat mats as we have discussed in the past.

The best part about my rooting process is that it's hands off. Once the cuttings are in the chamber you only have to make a decision to move them when there are roots and leaves. Then when they are on the heat mat you flood them with hydro until they get 12 inches tall. Then take them off the mat and put them under a light and keep flooding them.

Easy to do. Good results.

Rewton, Brent and Bexley:

I reversed the cutting, forced to bury it completely. Oh well, maybe I'll get lucky and a shoot will pop out someday! It has almost no tip at all exposed to the air!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Rewton, Brent and Bexley:

I reversed the cutting, forced to bury it completely. Oh well, maybe I'll get lucky and a shoot will pop out someday! It has almost no tip at all exposed to the air!


Heat and humidity... I've had 2 inch cuttings push up a sprout and roots...

In a case like this where the roots must have grown from the top joint can you plant it horizontal? 
You would need a square container or maybe a 1 gal.  I have not had a lot of luck planting figs horizontally they seem to dry out fast.

Buds would probably form eventually.
or
Sing Dean Martins song "Thats Amore" several times a day until they appear.  ; )

That's amore-that song was written about you, right?

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