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brandon87

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Posted Reply with quote  #51 
Knives might work even better since they are flat..

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Dig

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Posted Reply with quote  #52 
Old blinds work great for making tags too.
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TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #53 
Those methods work very well for cuttings and smaller plants but long term, outdoors and on trees you may risk the writing wearing off or it getting displaced if you have many trees.(or sneaky kids) I'm now trying out using aluminum from old soda or beer cans like this guy:



I'd recommend a long and durable wire large enough that it doesn't grow into your tree.


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donpaid

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Posted Reply with quote  #54 
Good root formation this year. Here is a picture of Wedgewood #1 (found growing from seed) and Alma, rooted using the "cardboard and fig cutting lasagna" method.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/narelli38/media/IMG_1974_zpsisyefg9n.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Woodville

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Posted Reply with quote  #55 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
Good luck Dig! I hope it goes well for you!
That is an impressive grow room you have Devlsgro. This is my first time propagating figs this winter, I'm using a cloner, a bunch of solo cups, and a bunch of bins with smaller bins inside with the lasagna method. I still dont know how to post pics to show everyone my grow spot. Thanks!
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Woodville

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Posted Reply with quote  #56 
Quote:
Originally Posted by donpaid
Good root formation this year. Here is a picture of Wedgewood #1 (found growing from seed) and Alma, rooted using the "cardboard and fig cutting lasagna" method.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/narelli38/media/IMG_1974_zpsisyefg9n.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Very nice , im starting to see roots with mine in the lasagna method.
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johnny_k

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Posted Reply with quote  #57 
Devisgro,

I have no idea the variety.  I picked them off the bartender at the hotel.  He said they were feminello and they looked right and tasted excellent.  i didn't realize at the time that lemons dont grow true.....do you know of a source in the states for a feminello tree?  I would love to have one at the house.


johnny
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PeterC

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Posted Reply with quote  #58 
week 6, the one 2nd from right, front, I may lose, just started to wilt, perhaps the soil is too damp (definitely not wet) or some other reason.........
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donpaid

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Posted Reply with quote  #59 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodville
Very nice , im starting to see roots with mine in the lasagna method.


Thanks Steve! I'm a fan of the lasagna method. Been using it for three years. Rooted every cutting I've received. Good luck this season! 
johnny_k

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Posted Reply with quote  #60 
Looks like exactly what happened to me.  are the leaves rubbery and tightly attached?  How much are you watering?  As much more elegantly put by Toronto Joe,  the roots may have rotted and lost turgor pressure since the leaves aren't connected to the roots.  Anyway, that's what happened to me.  i lost one cutting, but stopped watering so much and i am now seeing improvement.  see this thread; it may help.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/wilting-of-rooted-cutting-7844470?pid=1294317005

johnny
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TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #61 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterC
week 6, the one 2nd from right, front, I may lose, just started to wilt, perhaps the soil is too damp (definitely not wet) or some other reason.........




Peter - On three occasions now I've taken cuttings that started to show signs of "on their way out", and gently re-potted in new mix that is only the slightest bit humid. In all three cases things are looking good. IMO the trick is to be super gentle in removing the old mix without damaging too many roots and rinsing off the crud - then carefully place it in a new pot.....No guarantees but if looks like it's on it's way out then you have nothing to lose....If you have a few roots not yet rotted and the stock is good then you have a fighting chance. I know that some will tell you to leave it be and hope for the best (and they may be right) but for me the best course is remediation.

IMO only... I'm not a botanist! Good luck!
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PeterC

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Posted Reply with quote  #62 
Thanks for the replys, the mix is never wet, the meter says moist, not sure what happen, I feel bad losing cuttings.

If i see no signs of revival, then I will try to re root it again, I do have another Hollier that is dong great so I am not too upset.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #63 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon87
Knives might work even better since they are flat..


I tried knives but the writing wore away in a season or so and it was harder to fit all the words on for some reason.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #64 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dig
Old blinds work great for making tags too.


Good one I'll keep my eye out.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #65 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoJoe
Those methods work very well for cuttings and smaller plants but long term, outdoors and on trees you may risk the writing wearing off or it getting displaced if you have many trees.(or sneaky kids) I'm now trying out using aluminum from old soda or beer cans like this guy:



I'd recommend a long and durable wire large enough that it doesn't grow into your tree.




Those look good, I have seen them on plants I bought before but necsd considered making any. I guess I only would make them. for permanent rooted trees. No sense wasting time making them for cuttings that might not take. Thanks for sharing.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #66 
Quote:
Originally Posted by donpaid
Good root formation this year. Here is a picture of Wedgewood #1 (found growing from seed) and Alma, rooted using the "cardboard and fig cutting lasagna" method.

http://s32.photobucket.com/user/narelli38/media/IMG_1974_zpsisyefg9n.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


That's a neat method. I haven't seen that before, nor have I heard of your seedling. Has the original tree produced fruits yet?
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #67 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodville
That is an impressive grow room you have Devlsgro. This is my first time propagating figs this winter, I'm using a cloner, a bunch of solo cups, and a bunch of bins with smaller bins inside with the lasagna method. I still dont know how to post pics to show everyone my grow spot. Thanks!


Try using Photobucket, it works easily from a computer. Thanks for the compliment, it's a bit overgrown but I can't put in more shelving until I run up some more lights. My wife tolerates it only because it makes me very very happy lol
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #68 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny_k
Devisgro,

I have no idea the variety.  I picked them off the bartender at the hotel.  He said they were feminello and they looked right and tasted excellent.  i didn't realize at the time that lemons dont grow true.....do you know of a source in the states for a feminello tree?  I would love to have one at the house.


johnny


I believe four winds is selling one of the feminello trees. Their prices are very reasonable and their product is top of the line. I recommend foliage pro 9-3-6 for fertilizer and too dry is much better than too wet.
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gofiger

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Posted Reply with quote  #69 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon87
Nice setup Devin!!! I never thought to use plastic spoons as labels! I was fixing to have to order more labels but I think I'll go that route this time..


I just cut up any white plastic container....margarine tubs...sour cream tubs.. yogurt containers...etc etc into the size of markers I want with a good pair of scissors. It's free and in a few minutes I have all the markers I need.
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Steve
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That's Canada eh!

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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #70 
You can try to repot Peter but it's no guarantee, sometimes that works for me and sometimes not. I don't rinse though, maybe it's better to. If something is severely damage I root prune gently. A lot of times I find the "wilters" never made any roots at all. If you need a hollier in the spring send me a message, I believe I have an extra rooted cuttings from last season I can send your way.
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TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #71 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
Those look good, I have seen them on plants I bought before but necsd considered making any. I guess I only would make them. for permanent rooted trees. No sense wasting time making them for cuttings that might not take. Thanks for sharing.



You're quite right. It definitely would be a waste of time for every single cutting or small tree. This is what I do for my in-ground trees or those potted that I'll be sinking into the ground. 
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LeanderFig

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Posted Reply with quote  #72 
Just a few pics of some of my babies. This is my first try at rooting cuttings, so I'm happy so far.

Greek Church
[102_4841] 
[102_4840] 

RDB
[102_4839] 

Florea
[102_4838]
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donpaid

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Posted Reply with quote  #73 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
That's a neat method. I haven't seen that before, nor have I heard of your seedling. Has the original tree produced fruits yet?


Thank you! There are so many different styles and methods of rooting and I know others have had great successes with them, but this method is the only one that has worked for me consistently.

The seedling has not produced fruits. I am not sure if it ever will, but I am keeping my fingers crossed. I will definitely write about it on the forum if it does. 

I posted about Wedgewood #1 about 3 years ago. Here's a link to the post. 
https://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/the-resilient-fig-tree-6711514?pid=1281138546
TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #74 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanderFig
Just a few pics of some of my babies. This is my first try at rooting cuttings, so I'm happy so far.

Greek Church

RDB
 
Florea


I see a Spadafora Dark in the background. Aaron's cuttings are top notch.

Good rooting technique...Big pots.

What's the clear tape on the cutting for?
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LeanderFig

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Posted Reply with quote  #75 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoJoe


I see a Spadafora Dark in the background. Aaron's cuttings are top notch.

Good rooting technique...Big pots.

What's the clear tape on the cutting for?

The clear tape is parafilm. I am trying many different techniques to see what works best for me. I saw a video where they used the parafilm wrap to retain moister in the cutting while rooting so it doesn't dry out. It works really well. Those cuttings with parafilm were put straight into the growing medium without starting in moss or other medium. All did really well. I should have wrapped more of the cutting, but it worked out great.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #76 
The cuttings look really great leanderfig, I have the parafilm grafting tape a whirl this season.as well and love it. Everything above soil has it and it really has helped I think.
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LeanderFig

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Posted Reply with quote  #77 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
The cuttings look really great leanderfig, I have the parafilm grafting tape a whirl this season.as well and love it. Everything above soil has it and it really has helped I think.

I think it helps a great deal. I also tried some without, and they seemed to struggle.
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #78 
I've had issues with some or most of the top wood dessicating in the past, this prevents that 100℅
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haslamhulme

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Posted Reply with quote  #79 
Leander Fig:All looking good!,i like the idea of the tape to help prevent dehydration of the cutting, i have only done that with grafts but i guess the same principles apply, parafilm is pricier than the cheaper grafting tapes but it will stretch as the cutting swells and should allow buds to pus through it as well.

PeterC/JohnnyK et al who have seen this problem: argh, wilters!, the bane of my rooting season, ive had too many, at first i was in the " wait and see" camp, but after loosing more than i should im now in the "emergency action" remediation camp,i think i may have saved my last Conadria (fingers crossed) and one of the last two of each Brogiotto Bianco Falls Gold by gently repotting into a much lighter(higher Perlite, drier coir) mix-im with you on this one TotontoJoe.The Brogiotto Bianco had rotted at the bottom but had roots higher up so i cut up to healthier looking wood leaving healthier roots above the cut.The Conadria just wanted to wilt from the start and just got worse, it was a thin cutting to start off with so not much vigour, its now lost its leaves but has about 4 inches of green growth which arent showing signs of death so ill let it get on with growing roots and hope it bounces back.

If you have enough nodes you could as a last ditch measure cut a 'middle section' with at least 2 nodes(or 1 if you can work that kinda magic), one to go below and 1 above the mix and try re-rooting it, it worked for me on my last Alma cutting a few weeks ago(success rate with this method was about 1 in 10), the cutting ended up being about 1 inch long but started showing roots thins week and now has about 1 1/2 inch of growth and a couple of leaves.The thing i have found is that once rot sets in it works it way up the cutting, once that happens beyond the last rootable node i find generally its a gonner.

Gofiger: I use the plastic milk bottles we get here,i have young kids so they get through it quick, permanent marker seems to last on them and whats best is they are free, think i might switch to write on aluminum tags for the permanent trees

Pino/Angelad/TorontoJoe:some great advice, i think i lost lots to overwatering but dont think ive ever killed any through under watering, if anything the roots have grown stronger, quicker and thicker with minimal water,from now on im going to resist the urge, turn around and walk away,figs are shy, they only root when you arent watching!.

Everyone else,only so much time to comment hence the multi comment, im just glad that a topic about actually growing figs(aside to all other other human stuff that goes on between folks) has captured the interest of so many.This stuff is invaluable to newbie winter rooters like me (having previously only done spring/summer under cover outdoors) not just in terms of technique but in encouragement, the old adage 'a problem shared is a problem solved' applies here,or when it comes to loosing cuttings 'misery loves company' :)
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Deceased:Mission( received new cuttings from a generous member today,thank you!)
Mario_1

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Posted Reply with quote  #80 
i use parafilm it saves a lot of work, no need to put cups on top or anything the parafilm keeps them moist and buds come right trough wile the parafilm keeps the cutting moist for a wile longer, eventually it will fall off by itself. i also use old blinds for different type of tags if you use pencil it does  not come off, just try scrubbing it off!!! impossible.
last time i needed tags i didn't have any old blinds i bought new ones and it was still cheaper than buying commercial tags and better.
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TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #81 
Parafilm tape..... I wasn't familiar with the stuff. I'd seen it on things like banana bunches without even knowing what it was for. Interesting that it doesn't stop the budding. I have to try this stuff out.

I had noticed some drying on some of my most recent cuttings. I waxed the ends assuming all the moisture was escaping out the tip, but if this stuff isn't preventing growth it seems like a really good option.
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Mario_1

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Posted Reply with quote  #82 
Toronto Joe make sure you do not double the tape over the node , i usually stretch the tape a little over the node to make it easier for the bud and i wrap the cutting to just below dirt line  
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TorontoJoe

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Posted Reply with quote  #83 
So, as little as possible just to seal it in....Got it.

And, I assume tape only down to the soil line and no deeper?
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LeanderFig

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Posted Reply with quote  #84 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario_1
Toronto Joe make sure you do not double the tape over the node , i usually stretch the tape a little over the node to make it easier for the bud and i wrap the cutting to just below dirt line  

I have been trying it by just skipping the part with the bud when wrapping if possible, but I noticed on a few where it was not possible that it pushed right through. I was pretty impressed. I was told it would do this, but I had doubts. It's amazing how much strength those little buds have!
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DevIsgro

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Posted Reply with quote  #85 
You stole the words from my mouth Mario! Stretch it as much as possible and if you have to double or overlap never over the node. It will split the tape right open! I would recommend covering buds though, with one layer, because otherwise they might dry out and that extra humidity helps them pop.
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