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if you were rooting hundreds of cuttings, how would you do it and why.

Just like it says. I have cuttings not all figs but slot that I plan on rooting very soon
So which method, and why. Pics welcome.

See my sig

Rooting over a hundred right now via the single node experiment.  So far so good.

  • Rob

I would wait until spring and then use Jon's uline bag method.  Would time it so that when they are ready to be potted they can be placed outside.  Otherwise it becomes a real logistical nightmare with where to put the things indoors.  And if you get fungus gnats, that would just be ridiculous with that many.  

I root over the winter, but I can only do so many because by late spring they will be in 1 gallon pots so they take up a lot of space.  Also transitioning to outdoors is a pain, so I wouldn't want to do that with hundreds.  If you put them outdoors as soon as they start putting out any amount of leaves, then you make your life easier. 

I agree with Rob.  I would probably use the tree pot method that Harvey posted earlier this year.  I tried this method last May once it was warm and humid outdoors.  I kept the the cuttings in a shady spot initially and had good success with a modest amount of input of my time.  The cuttings were never in-doors.

Waiting until spring is not an option unfortunately. I grow indoors every winter and end up with a large amount going hundreds. But have never started hundreds at a single time.

I use Sterlite containers for mass quantities.  See this thread.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/jons-bag-method-writ-large-6378923



  • Rob

Just put them all in a humidity bin and then put like 20 per day into the uline bags.  That way after a week you've got them all in the little bags.  That way you don't have to do them all at once.  They will not all root at the same time so you can space the up-potting out that way too.

I actually have a bunch of uline bags that I don't use anymore.  If you want me to send you some you can have them for approximately shipping/handling costs.

  • Rob

I like some of the aspects of rcantor's method, but in my experience, cuttings root at very different times, so it might be hard to get the timing right on when to float them out of the perlite.  It's definitely an interesting idea though.  Not sure root breakage would be any less than what I experience when I use sphagnum moss in shoe boxes.

Hi,
So you have a grow-light system setup inside with heat and humidity control .
I would go with 1 liter pot with compost from the nurseries with a handfull of pine bark at the bottom of the pot.
And let them grow .
As suggested, doing this outside (in a  3 liters pot at spring or summer time), here at least, is far more easier as who ever does it, is controlling all the parameters to fit the needs of the fig cuttings in a really nice way.
I rooted some 15 in July, with great success and no hassle or fungus gnats or messing up my flat.

100, that's a nice herd ! Just space them enough so that they all don't get shaded .
Good luck !

Quote:
Originally Posted by garden_whisperer
Just like it says. I have cuttings not all figs but slot that I plan on rooting very soon So which method, and why. Pics welcome.


The best method is what works for you.  I root a lot of cuttings over the winter and it gets tight here in my small house, but I like doing it.  :)

i hear you Danny, right now i got 25+ pomagrant cuttings going 2 weeks and starting new growth, 25+ goji berry cuttings going showing new growth. 45 pepino melon fruit going. expecting some elderberry cuttings here in soon, and havent even touched the figs yet. growing things is better than a shrink. debating on if im going to do citrus again.

Wow, that's a lot!  Good for you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by garden_whisperer
growing things is better than a shrink.


You got that right!

check out this page on facebook “Fig Malaysia” lots of photos

527926_421360947948991_1018832541_n.jpg 


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob
I like some of the aspects of rcantor's method, but in my experience, cuttings root at very different times, so it might be hard to get the timing right on when to float them out of the perlite.  It's definitely an interesting idea though.  Not sure root breakage would be any less than what I experience when I use sphagnum moss in shoe boxes.


You're right about all the cuttings not rooting at the same time.  The ones that haven't rooted yet get examined  - some have molded and get tossed.  The rest go back for more rooting time.  Sometimes the same way, sometimes differently.  I never get root tangling because I check every 3 weeks and there's plenty of room in 3 dimensions for them to travel without them doubling back.  If the roots were to tangle they'd already be in the water bath I'd use to untangle them.  :)  There's definitely a root or two left over when I'm done but there's never been a plant that lost a significant percent of its roots.  Around here temperature makes a big difference in how fast they root.  I'm beginning to suspect that cooler temps at night than in the day also speeds up rooting.  I don't have data but I suspect 75-78 during the day and 71-74 at night is optimal.  There are so many factors tied in to that which will affect the numbers that you should find what works best in your setting.  For example, when I raise my heat to 80 my plants dry out more quickly and I don't know if I keep up with watering as well.  At night my temps drop into the mid 60s.  If yours stay in the mid 70s you may not need to heat your cuttings at all.

I've never had much luck with sphagnum moss or peat cups but many swear by those methods.  In general I use Jon's bag method unless I have dozens at the same time.  Then I use this modified version just because it takes less time.

Bump

For lots and lots of cuttings, I'd go with Root Riot cubes in 72 cell trays.  Lots of density.  Use a humidity dome and low setting heat mat.
Keep the trays full of cuttings (consolidate when you start up-potting).

i used this 2 years ago with a lot of success.  I'm not doing much smaller batches and using a less efficient (but highly effective) cloner.


Andrew

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