Need to invest in cross push/pull circulation fans and look at installing louvers at the end peaks to alllow heat to vent in the summer months.  Most kits will have these as extra options

What Jack said. You should install a couple exhaust fans, a couple lovers, and maybe a couple circulation fans. You may need shade cloth. So far, I have been as high as 110 degrees with fans on. It will be much hotter without them. Don't know if I need shade cloth yet because it hasn't hit high 90's yet.

That's a beautiful looking greenhouse Jimmy...hope it all works out for you.

I agree with the others that have commented. Mine has an exhaust fan with the thermostat set at 75F. It runs a lot, but keeps the temperature down. I also have a 65% black shade cloth over mine year round. When it needs replacing, I'm to change to a white one for here. Black might help you out in the winter in NJ. I keep my door wide open after temps get above 70F here. That's a nice looking greenhouse you're looking at there.

You can try running a soaker hose or drip hose at the opposite end of the greenhouse from the fan so that it can pull some moisture through the air to help cool it down, it may only do a few degrees though.

You will need an exhaust fan, fans to circulate the air to keep the temps uniform. You will want misters of some sort to keep up the humidity. You may need some shade cloth to cut down on the sunlight.

All of these things apply regardless of what greenhouse you have or buy. You have to be able to control temperature and humidity.

Wish I had one that size. Wsh I had the space for one that size. ;-))

Agree with what everyone else is saying about the fans and exhaust vents. You would be surprised on how fast temps can skyrocket in a greenhouse with no venting. It can climb 40+ degrees in an hour which can be a real problem with stressing plants with such extreme temperature spikes.

One thing not noted is bugs. Humid, hot, closed conditions is a breeding ground for them. Prepare for this as you will get them no matter what you do. Spider mites, thrips, aphids, fungal gnats and the like will try to ruin your life. I'd hide a few shots of your favorite adult beverage in the greenhouse for the days you walk in and find plants covered in bugs. The shots wont do anything for the bugs, but it will help you get over that sinking feeling that your loosing the war and you want to cry.

Stop in to your local greenhouse and check out how they have theirs setup and ask some questions. They are usually more than willing to give info.

in my case the ants are my evening excercise, the lizards clean the remnantas after the carnage...

thanks for everyone's comments. This greenhouse will be attached to my garage in the northern side. I have to build this way, because zoning requirement: accesory biilding can not exceed 625 sf, and have to be 15 ft away from main structure. So, I apply the permit as an attachment to the main structure to bypass the size limitation. Anyway, one-end wall will touch the garage wall and unable to install fan etc at this side.
Another idea will be build it a few ft away from garage and connect it with a breeze way (I haven't talk to town about this idea yet), then it will be very easy to install everything on the end wall or even on the breeze way.
I'll go to the town next week to see if this possible before ordering this greenhouse.

More economical choice would be a High Tunnel,
both in initial setup and yearly operating costs.

So high tunnel with PVC film? How about his http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/outdoor-grounds-maintenance/greenhouse/polycarbonate-greenhouses/26x12x28-solar-star-greenhouse-w-poly-ends-and-drop-down-sides

what's the difference between drop down side and roll-up side? this is the same dimension as previous one. However, it cost more.

First I would look at other sources than Global.

High tunnel is different than your second link.

A high tunnel will cost about $1.50- $2.00 per sq ft.
$5200 would get you a 30'x 70'+  high tunnel

You should also check with your zoning board,
they are NOT considered a permanent structure in many states,
so they are not subject to many codes or have tax ramifications.

http://www.hort.cornell.edu/hightunnel/structures/index.htm

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/plasticulture/technologies/high-tunnels

http://www.hightunnels.org/index.html

hungryjack,

thanks a lot. my town does not consider it's permanent structure and no tax on it. They only ask me to apply for electric permit, not even plumbing because I just need to extend current faucet with garden hose.
I also check growerssupply.com, they have tons of options. Since this is my first one, really have no idea how to make a correct decision.

Where you located ?  Cali ?

The location is in NJ.
This will be multiple purpose. I'll put a fish pond inside to keep my koi happier during winter. also store tree in winter and grow vegetable. propagate trees, etc. Maybe BBQ in rainy day. I don't expect to heat it during winter, will let the fish pond to regulate the temp during winter. But summer can be an issue.

We are in the same climate zone.

I think you are trying to accomplish too many activities in the same structure.

If you want to store fig trees, you want the temps at 40 or below.
Trying to grow veggies at the same time in the same structure won't work,
you will need higher temps for the veggies than 40 for any worthwhile growth.

During the spring (now) and summer months, even with shade cloth
you will need to run fans for ventilation to control the temps.
Using a High Tunnel will alleviate some electric costs, but not all.
Unless you are home all day to vent/control the structure,
you will need electronic controllers to handle this task, about $1000 for a setup,
add another $1000 for fans and irrigation to any structure you choose.
Shade cloth and assorted accessories another $500 or so.

You can use a high tunnel to accomplish some of what you want
and save some money over purchasing a greenhouse.

PS- I keep 55 gal black barrels of water in my high tunnel over the winter to help
regulate temps, surface will freeze 1" thick at times.

I'm also in the market for a high tunnel set up and oddly enough I also live in NNJ. :D


HungryJack- by chance, do you have any photo's of your setup?


I'm looking to build one to have a workstation setup/propagating, growing 1-3 yr old fig trees since we've been having this crazy weather I feel my trees are behind a bit, and also potted fig storage in the winter. I was also going to look into using black plastic drums full of water as a means to regulate the temp inside. Thoughts?


Jimmy, I don't have the link handy but I'm looking into buying a pipe bender ($50 each) specifically designed for building high tunnels, however, each bender is width specific.........what width were you leaning towards?

my future dream house will have room for a greenhouse this size

I've posted this info before, but still worthy if your interested in building your self a high tunnel.

Here's a photo gallery of the high tunnel I built last year. 10X18
https://picasaweb.google.com/112045070591403359443/April12013?authuser=0&feat=directlink

This place has the benders for a few different sizes tunnels. Very easy to do with basic carpentry / mechanical skills.
http://www.hoopbenders.net/

HungryJack,

This greenhouse/hoophouse/high tunnel will be built in Piscataway, only a few miles from Staten Island. Although I can grow veggie year round, I can start in early spring, and transplant outdoor in summer.
one inch thick of ice is better than 1 ft thick that I had on my koi pond in February, it kills most of my koi.
I am currently using my 9x15 ft sunroom and run out of sapace. Also watering hundreds of cups takes me a lot of time. I can't use any irrigation system, my sunroom is not build to deal with water.

Frank,
I live in Lyndhurst, not far from Wayne.
My original plan is to build 24x26 hoophouse (i can easily extend to 60 if needed) using EMT conduit, then I figure out I will need a lot of hardware to connect each pipe and purline, etc. It may cost about the same to buy a kit, also save a lot of effort bending the conduit. Unless I can find those hardware cheap to connect the conduit. Maybe we can meet and excahnge ideas on how to get these project done.

Jimmy

Well, RIMike beat me to posting up the links, thanks again Mike!

Mike if it's not too much trouble, can you take/post up some photo's of the fittings used to attach the wood frame to the conduit?


Jimmy, I'm leaning towards 12' wide......to be honest, I'm not quite ready to move forward on this yet but yea we can compare notes. Regarding cost, I can tell you Mike above came in well under $1000 for his 10x18.


BTW- regarding the GH in your first link, that is the nicest GH I've ever seen that was fairly priced!  When you look at what Costco offers on their website for almost twice the price and not nearly the square footage, it's a no brainer. When it's time to relocate, I'd actually consider something like that!

Mike, great photos. I have a broad idea of how to build the hoophouse, but not in detail. questions:
1. what kind of drill bits do you use on the conduit?
2. Do you know what size of conduit I should use for 24 ft span?
3. is 4 ft spacing of each hoop sufficient?
4. what anchor do you use?
5. Does anchor attached to the baseboard, then hoop attach to the basebaord? Or attach the hoop to anchor directly?

I was planning to build the hoop like this:
 1.5" 10ft EMT conduit, need 3x condit per hoop. bend 22.5 degree in middle. Join them with 2x 22..5 degree elbows.

Jimmy

Frank,
I do like the GH in the first link as well. nice looking. a few thousand extra cost compare to a hoophouse is not a major concern. If the side panel can be removed easily during summer, I may actually go for it. But I don't know if it's possible. The other option is the 2nd link I post, that has polycarbonate roof, and fabric side, cost about the same in 5-6k range.

Jimmy

Sped some time and skim through this how to document. It should answer all the questions.

http://www.hoopbenders.net/images/pdf_10_ft_bender_instructions.pdf