Navin & Jim,

Jim is on target with watering in the morning and the tubing will be cool.
Navin: If you can fill a 5 gal bucket in less than 1 min. and you will be using about 70 emitters you should do just fine.
I should mention that if anyone using a well to irrigate should make sure that the well pump does not short cycle. Short cycling of a well pump is the best way to kill in a relatively short time.
Short cycle is when the pump runs shuts down in a couple of min runs again the motor above ground and or in ground will over heat. I would tend to believe there folks who are trying to use there lawn irrigation system to water there lawn, shrubs, yard trees and fig trees. This is a bad idea.

Dennis,
What you have should do the job
There are micro sprays that dribble water as well as send it is a spray pattern.  Any type of emitter that drips or dribbles will work just fine everyone need to do what Northeastnewbie suggests is to measure the amount of water that is being emitted from each emitter. If you do not want to do this you can  measure the first and the last emitter to see if there is a noticeable pressure drop in the line. I have made systems where if fed the lateral line from both ends with this method i have a more balanced pressure in the literal line.  Another way is to feed your lateral from the center and balance the emitters. These are some things you can do when the pressure becomes a problem.  One  very important thing to do is to purge your lateral line before  attaching your emitters. This should remove any sand  or little critters that may be in the tubing. You have had your supplies for some time.
Al
NJZ6

Al and Jim,

The potted trees need to be watered twice a day during July and Aug. Once in the morning around 9-10 Am then again at 2-3 pm.

Navid,
If you cover the top of the pot with black plastic it will hold the moisture in the pot as well as the heat from the day. I do this to mine and have taken the temp from direct sun on the plastic which reached a high of 165 degrees and the temp of the fig leaf was 115 degrees. From what i have learned fig trees can take a lot of heat.  I believe it is better to let the soil breath and not over water. If a plant starts to wilt it need a little shade and not more water if the soil is moist from earlier watering.  What is your soil mix? If it dries out that quickly you may need to add a media that holds a little more moisture.

Al
NJ Z 6

AL has hit the nail on the head you need to change your media to hold your water in the hot days of summer. This is where the timer and knowing your emmitters water output is crucial. you adjust the timer to put adequate water to your plant for current conditions. (example) spring when plant is coming out of dormancy you might only water 10 minutes every three days. during the heat of the summer you might water 15 minutes every day. Remember our dormant plants get 1/8 to 1/4 cup to a gallon pot once a month. It is all about evaporation from soil and through leaves.

Northeastnewbie, I will definately do a test run.  This year, I'm going to have trees on my patio, on my deck and planted in ground.  My design will be well thought out with about 10 or 12 legs off the main water line and many many drippers. Since part of my system will be for in-ground, I will add a shutoff for the leg that goes up the hill.  Irrigation is new to me and I know I can pull it off.  Thanks,

Dennis,
You say up the hill. How far from your main supply is the hill and how high above the main supply is this hill. You said you live in the city I than take it you have city water supply. If this is the case you will NEED to use a form of back flow preventer. Check and see if there is a vacuum breaker on your hose bib if that is where you will be getting your supply from.  These devices prevent contaminated water in irrigation systems from getting into the drinking water supply. In most cities it is the law.

Al
NJ Z 6

Al, My mix do retains some moisture but not for a prolong period. Been thinking to start using the Self watering containers or to cover their tops with a heavy duty liner (similar to Bill's pots) or plastic to decrease the water loss (evaporation) and keep the extra water (rain) away. Any thoughts?

May not be your case but in pots one has to make sure roots of plants are in check .
To many roots and they heat up in heat of summer make leaves droop and have quite a thirst constantly as they uptake water to cool off the rest of plant.

During times when sun goes down leaves will perk back up as the plant plumbing system cools down.

This has been my experience in past as i grow all my plants in various size containers in a cooler zone.

Last season i had a plant in 3 gallon container constantly drinking several times a day as the root system was too large for the pot.

Also if soil is compact the top will get water and make pot feel somewhat heavy and rest run to the side and out the drain holes making one think it has been watered ok.
Just something to watch out for when someone grows in containers root pruning help a great deal .

Again it probably is not your case but something to keep an eye on when the time comes down the road as it will eventually start to stress the plant.

Al, the hill is about 30 feet from the main faucet.  And the hill is about a degrees up and goes up about 20 feet then flatten out down to 20 degrees towards the right side of my house.  I do have city water.  The kit I bought years ago came with a back flow preventer.  I'll check for a vacuum breaker too.  I know I will have to water my potted trees twice a day.  I spent hours last year watering with a garden hose at 8AM and 4PM every day!  I don't plan on doing that this year.  Last year I screwed up and tried to use Al's Turface mix.  That was a hard lesson for me.  I had to dunk some of my potted trees just to give them enough water.  I ended up repotting trees in June!  Argh!!!! I like Bill's website and like his technique.  However, down South, we have super hot summers.  To beat the heat, top dress my potted trees with pine bark mulch.  I relocated my 30gal 4 year old Stella tree under my deck porch and it grew 3 feet, doubled its fruit, plus the interior was red for the first time.  So, we have very hot summers in the Carolinas but figs grow very well here.  cheers

Dennis.
With water and in irrigation systems you loose pressure when you push it up hill. You may want to use a 3/4" supply line from the house to the top of  your hill. You may want to check what the pressure loss is through the BFP.
The combination of distance elevation and BFP may limit the number of emitters that will preform as expected. For this reason and others that is why you see larger systems with multiple zones.
Al
NJ Z 6

Navid, I can definately relate to Al's mix.  I watched my trees for 2 days and they looked sad!  I am sure that mix may work for some folks but not for my area.  I just use Pro-Mix BX, Miracle Grow, and pea size perilite.  I may try Bill mix and see how it does.  In March I got a truck bed load of compost and top soil coming from my local land field.  I've got over 50 trees to repot and plant outside. 

My first year growing figs in my area, I took one Negronne potted it up with just Miracle Grow and 2 fruit tree spikes.  That year I had the pretties and sweetest figs.  So, this year I'm going back to my fruit tree spikes.  I bought a case last week for 40 bucks with 160 sticks.  thanks,