I assume it is and have applied some fungicide (the powdery whitish stuff visible in the photo).

YIKES!  Is this all over your tree?  I don't know what it is, and look forward to the answers.  What did you spray with?  These things are good to know, just in case...............

Suzi

Might also be water stress.

Martino, yes that's look like rust and I don't think it caused by over or under watering but rain and high humidity is the perfect environment for it's development. The spores float in the air and attached to the tree and then it spread from there. Next year I will start spraying with copper a long time before I see any signs of rust. This year has been very bad for me and although we usually get some most years, this year is came very early. It hit my Celeste first just as the fig were beginning to ripen. Before I could get but a sampling of figs the leaves all got infested and started dropping. The figs then turned leathery and were not any good. I've been spraying with copper but it's been raining so much I don't know what good it does. I do have a few late bearing trees that I'm trying to save. Here is a few pictures of the rust on my LSU Tiger.








This is what's left of my Celeste

Gene, that looks scary. I hope my fungicide works.

Gene, that looks scary. I hope my fungicide works.

I guess living in a warm zone isn't all peaches and cream. That is something I'm very glad I don't have to deal with.

My only fig tree has/had a slight case of rust also,
Never wet the leaves while watering! That will only spread the problem!

It's best to remove any badly dried,  infected leaves if possible, and keep the ground clear around the infected plant of any fallen dead leaves also!
Rust can overwinter in infected dead leaves both on the plant and fallen to the ground!  So, remove them to a plastic trash pick up bag!
(NEVER PUT THE INFECTED LEAVES IN YOUR COMPOST PILE!)

Also, do not put flower plants, trees, ornamental hedges, or tall grasses that are suseptable to rust close to your figs. (Hollyhocks gets rust  easily here)

Personally I really don't care for copper fungicdes, it's  too toxic to people, pets, bees, and the environmant,  really isn't very effective for more than a few days, and it washes off way too easily. So, it ends up in garden run off to streams, lakes, and the water table.

Neem oil works good! and is safe to use on your house plants as well as outside in your flower/vegetable garden, and orchard too .
Safe around people, pets, bees(If not sprayed directly on bees, so apply late evening after bees head home for the night), and it's safe for the environment.

And it will "prevent/control blackspot on roses, anthracnose,
RUST, and powdery mildew, etc."  and will work within 24 hours.

It also controls spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, beetles, etc. 

You need to apply it to your plants in late evening to minimize the potential for leaf burn. (AKA: sun scald)
Also remember to apply it late evening after bee activity ends for the day in your garden.

No product will cure Rust, but it will keep it from spreading or starting in the first place if you start appling it early in your growing season before it gets a foot hold. and continue applications about every 7 days to two weeks according to directions to prevent it from spreading if it does get a foot hold.

Some garden plants or their flowers (like Hibiscus) are sensitive to Neem oil.  So, if your plant isn't listed on the label as sensitive to Neem oil, then test it (mixed according to directions) on a few leaves and/or flowers before treating the entire plant.

Try using Neem oil early next year and your plants will look perfect!

Thanks for the info Dan. I'll look into the Neem oil.
"gene"

Thanks for the info, Dan.  I learned a lot.

Will try neem oil.

I've used Neem oil at half the recommended mixture on Phalenopsis orchids for mealy bugs, and on African Violets for powdery mildew without harming the plants.

Dan....

Can you name a brand of Neem Oil?  I never used it, but I have some mealy bugs on my Clivia, and I like the idea of less toxic, more organic products for controlling pests.

Thanks,

Frank

Oh! I love Clivia! but, they are unavailable where I live.

Any Neem Oil that is at least a 70% or more as an ingredient will work great, and is considered "Organic". The other 30% inert ingredients are usually water, product spreaders, leaf surface bonding agents, and surfactants. (Or in other words dish detergent, and water.)
I bought my last bottle of Neem Oil at Lowes made by Garden safe.
Be responsible, It's important to read the label's ingredients first before buying it. Some non-organic brands like Bayer will add toxic chemicals to treat a broader spectrum of bugs and diseases, so beware to only buy 70%+ organic brands. 
Also Remember! Even Organic products have "hazzardous" warning labels,
or they wouldn't be effective on bugs and plant diseases. 
So, Be careful to read, and follow all directions on the label.

Something that looks an awful lot like that is on a couple of small trees I just got from EL.  And looks like it has spread to another tree now too.  Aarghh!  I'll try Neem Oil I guess, in the evening.

Also a question for Jon:

Noss,
Yes, I have used Safer, and was pleased with the results. It just takes a wee bit longer to work than toxic chemicals.
But, I personally find it too expensive for what little you get, so I mix my own sprays.  As well as mix my own soils, and fertilizers.
I get a lot more for my money, and I can make adjustments for each plant's problems or special needs.

But, as with any product, test it on a small area, leaf, &/or flower first, wait a few days to see if there is any negative reactions,  before treating the whole plant. Remember the sun's intensity changes from spring, to winter, so you may be able to use some products only during certain times of the year according to the sun's intensity.
The oil Safer uses is very diluted Neem Oil, and soaps if I remember my research correctly.
As long as you apply it in the late evening (AFTER bee activity ceases for the day) This will give it enough time for the extra spray to run off, dry,  evaporate, or be absorbed into the plant (according to what product was used), and should be all right come morning in the sunlight. But, I want to encourage you to always test it on a few leaves first.

You can buy 70% Neem oil, dilute it yourself, and make gallons of the spray solution and save tons of money.  Safer just does the diluting, and mixing for you, and sells you just 8 oz for the same price it would cost to make gallons of it. About $9.99 for the 70% Neem oil, I use Garden Safe brand (at Lowes)

In extremly high heat, and/or high intensity sunlight, there is always a possibility of sun scald with any product, or even with just plain water!.

So, never apply products, especially oil based products, on your plants while the sun is shining on them!  This can scald them severely causing Instant death! (This is  the same reason you don't stick your finger in hot oil or water on the stove! ) Always wait until late evening, just after sundown is best..

For bugs I make my own bug spray of diluted lye soap and water.
I also foliar feed all my plants.

Wood ashes can be put in a cloth sack and shaken over your plants to coat the leaves with a fine layer of the ash which will work as a bug , mildew, and rust deterent,
But, should only be used in high intensity sunlight areas like LA,TX, CA, FL where sun scald is a problem. The ashes will lower sun's intensity as if the plant was standing in a shady spot.  Spray with water to easily remove the ashes if needed. Reapply after it rains.  Plants love the extra potash. too

I hope that answers any questions and is of help to someone.

Mike
Water stress can mean either > too much, or  too little!

To fix the problem, Don't let the soil dry completely out.
But, don't let it stay soggy either.

Your goal is to water so that the soil is evenly moist, so the soil feels like a rag that's been soaked in water first, then wrung out.  
Moist, with lots of tiny moist air pockets at the roots. Takes a little practice, but, it's easy to do once you get the hang of it.

If you're heavy handed, and like to water a lot (like me), use soil that contains more perlite, sand, or grit that will drain quicker and hold less water.

If you're forgetful about watering, use soil with some clay, and more organic matter in it like peatmoss, or compost to hold water longer.

If you can insert your finger in the soil in a deep pot, and if it's dry deeper than your finger tip, it's usually time to water.

Or insert a bamboo shishkabob skewer into the soil and leave it for a minute or so, then pull it out to see how moist the soil is, and how far down!
you can get a water reading 12" or more deep.
 
Lowes sells worms called "wormies" made of clay  that you stick into the soil, they look like wet clay when damp or wet, and when the soil is dry so are they, and you can easily tell the difference!!

I just use a long broken shard from a clay pot and leave it sticking out of the soil as a moisture indicator for things like outdoor cactus works excellent also!

Here's a tip:
Use a teaspoonful of liquid dish soap/detergent per gallon of water, the first time you water your plants in, then at least once every few weeks then after when watering your plants, and it will wet the soil more completely, and efffectively, helps desolve nutrients in the soil making them more available to your plants roots, kills soil born bugs giving them diarehha (sp.) til they die. And you'll find you'll need to use less water also. I've discovered it will make spagnum moss wet almost instantly because of it's  surfactant abilities.
I've also found in the 50 years of using this formula, that liquid dish soap/detergent is harmless to all plants, and even earthworms.

I must engage in this conversation because I heard a lot of disinformation. First  Copper spray is used in organic gardening that is toxic to fungy but not for humans and animals, you  can spray copper today and pick fruit tomorrow. Neem oil is an insecticide not  fungicide, and is organic substitute to control insects population.

Sorry, but that's NOT what my bottles say!

And if you've never heard of any incidents of copper poisoning, I'm amazed!

I've used Neem oil for many years on both insects, and fungus, molds, mildews, and rusts. It's used by the orchard industry for fire blight, and many other leaf, friut and bark diseases and insects.
Please, do your research!
Thank you!

Anyone can look this up for themselves.
The safety Data sheet on Copper fungicides as liisted with the USDA,:
Not toxic? Not harmful?
I would n't use it  after reading this data sheet!

Read this and decide for yourself.....


MS0290 Page 1 of 2

LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

Manufacturer’s Name & Address

Southern Agricultural Insecticides, Inc. Phone: 941-722 3285

PO Box 218, Palmetto, Fla. 33561 Chemtrec: 1-800-424-9300

I. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION

Product Name: SA-50 BRAND LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE EPA Reg. No.1812-377-829

Synonyms: Citcop 4E, Tenn.- Cop 4E

Use: Copper Fungicide for use on plants

HAZARD CLASSIFICATION: (0-minimal, 1-slight, 2-moderate, 3-serious, 4-severe)

NFPA: HEALTH-2, FIRE-3, REACTIVITY-0

HMIS HEALTH-2, FIRE-3, REACTIVITY-0 .

II. HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS

% by wt CAS# ACGIH (TLV) OSHA (TWA)

Copper salts of fatty and rosin acids 48% 61789-22-8 . 1 mg/m3 * 1 mg/m3 * .

(contains 4% Copper as metallic)

Xylene Range Aromatic 42% 1330-20-7 435 mg/m3 435 mg/m3

petroleum solvent *As copper dusts or mists (CAS# 7440-50-8)

Components not precisely identified are proprietary or not hazardous

III. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Boiling Point: 200-212

o

F Specific Gravity: 0.974

Vapor Density: Not determined. Vapor Pressure: Not determined

Solubility In Water: Emulsifies in water (wide range) pH: (1% soln) Neutral

Appearance/Odor: Dark green liquid, petroleum solvent odor.

Melting Point: Still liquid down to -67o F

IV. FIRE AND EXPLOSION DATA

Flash Point: 94-960 F closed cup; 1490

F Penske-Martin. Tag open cup

2

, sand, dry chemical or other media used for petroleum fires. Water emulsifies product making

clean up difficult. Product is slick and sticky. Water spray to cool unbroken containers.

Unusual Fire & Explosion Hazards: No unusual fire or explosion hazards known other than product is flammable. Heat may

cause drums to rupture.

Fire Fighting Equipment: Wear protective clothing and self contained breathing apparatus.

Hazardous Combustion Products: Not available

V. FIRST AID

EYE CONTACT: Hold eyelids open and flush with water, until no evidence of chemical remains (at least 15-20 minutes).

Get professional medical attention immediately.

SKIN CONTACT: Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Wash with plenty of soap and water (15-20 minutes) until no

evidence of chemical remains. Get professional medical attention immediately.

INHALATION: Remove victim from area. If not breathing, give artificial respiration, preferably, mouth to mouth. Get

professional medical attention immediately.

INGESTION: Do not induce vomiting. Get professional medical attention immediately.

NOTE TO PHYSICIAN: Product contains aromatic petroleum solvent; treat accordingly.

VI. POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS

EMERGENCY OVERVIEW: Product is flammable. It is also irritating to eyes and skin and is a skin sensitizer.

Inhalation May cause irritation of the mucous membranes. Exposure to copper fumes may result in metallic taste, nausea,

vomiting, and metal fume fever, aching muscles, dry throat and headache.

Eye irritation: May be irritating to eyes, but is reversible.

Skin irritation: Slight skin irritant Excessive exposure, especially if prolonged, may produce skin irritation. Repeated

exposure may cause allergic contact dermatitis.

Ingestion: May result in irritation of the gastrointestinal tract, nausea, vomiting, salivation, gastric pain, hemorrhagic gastritis,

diarrhea, capillary damage, liver and kidney damage, and central nervous system stimulation, followed by depression.

Jaundice, pain in the liver, and hemolytic anemia have been reported following acute human poisonings.

Chronic: None known.

MS0290 Page 2 of 2

LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

VI. Toxicological Information

ACUTE: Inhalation: Exposure to 206.7 mg/L caused no adverse effects.

Eye irritation Eye irritation scores: 0 at 48 and 72 hours

Skin irritation Skin irritant and sensitizer. Primary skin irritation index: 2.50.

Skin absorption Not determined.

Ingestion Oral LD50 between 1000 and 2000 mg/kg (rats)

CHRONIC: Product is not listed by NTP, IARC, nor Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances as a

carcinogen or potential carcinogen.

Special Health Effects: None known

VII. ECOLOGICAL INFORMATION

Test Type: Aquatic EC50: : Species: Pinfish Value 4.9 ppm @24 hours, 1.8 ppm @ 48 hours

VIII. Reactivity & STABILITY

Stability: Stable under normal conditions Material is flammable

Conditions to Avoid: Excessive heat Incompatible Materials: None known.

Hazardous Decomposition Products: None known or expected. On combustion

Copper, Carbon Dioxide, and Water would form.

Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur.

IX. SPILL OR LEAK MEASURES

Steps To Be Taken If Spilled: Wear protective clothing. Dike and cover spilled material with sweeping compound, dirt or lime.

Sweep up solidified material and place in an appropriate chemical waste container.

X. Special Protection

Respiratory Protection: Only necessary if exposure limits would be exceeded. Avoid breathing vapors.

Ventilation: No special requirements necessary. Product should remain in original container until used.

Gloves: Not known to be necessary. Should be worn with repeated or prolonged contact.

Eye Protection: Chemical goggles, face shield or safety glasses with side shields.

Other Protective Equipment: Clean, body covering, clothing. Product easily stains clothing but may be removed with mineral

spirits prior to dry cleaning.

XI. STORAGE & HANDLING

Handling Precautions: Avoid container damage. Do not put leaking containers into storage, Store above 32

o

F.

Store as a flammable pesticide, in a clean dry area. Keep out of reach of children.

XII. TRANSPORT INFORMATION

:

Product is not packaged in packages greater than 1 gallon.

Proper shipping name for domestic motor freight transportation; Consumer Commodity

Hazard class: ORM-D Freight classification; Fungicides NOI, O/T Poison NMFC 102120 ,

XIII REGULATORY INFORMATION

OSHA: This product is considered hazardous under the OSHA Hazardous Communication Standard (29 CFR

1910.1200)

TSCA:CERCLA:All product components are on the TSCA Chemical Inventory. Releases of a component of this material

( metallic copper) to air, land, or water are reportable to the National Response Center under the Comprehensive

Environmental Response, Compensation, and Liability Act (CERCLA) or to state and local emergency planning

committees under the Superfund Amendments and Reauthorization Act (SARA) Title III Section 304.

RCRA When a decision is made to discard this material as supplied, it meets RCRA's characteristic definition of

ignitability, corrosivity, or reactivity, and is listed in 40CFR 261.33.

SARA TITLE III 311/312 Hazard Categories: This product is a hazardous chemical under 29 CFR 1910.1200 and is

categorized as an acute health hazard and flammable.. 313 Reportable Ingredients: This product contains a percentage of

metallic copper (CAS #7440-50-8) and xylene which are listed in section 313 above de minimis concentrations.

This information relates solely to the this specific material. It does not include combinations with other materials. This

information is given without warranty or representation. Information is based on data we believe to be correct as of the date

hereof. This information is furnished solely for your consideration, investigation, and verification. Before using any product

READ THE LABEL. Last revised: 2/96 This revision 8/97

I can only say i drink my water from copper pipes. If you go by what government have to say good lack to you. I use my own research.

This is from  planet natural. com web site


Approved for organic gardening! Bonide® Liquid Copper Spray controls a wide range of plant diseases, including powdery mildew, rusts, black spot, late blight and more. May be applied as a dormant or growing season spray on flowers, fruits and vegetables. Will NOT burn plants. One quart (32 oz.) will treat 10 square yards.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
Begin treatment 2 weeks before disease normally appears or when disease first appears, and repeat at 7-10 day intervals for as long as needed. Re-apply after rain.

Thank You noss for the kind words.
And You are entirely Welcome!

I'm just trying to share my experience after 50 years of gardening,
I have a BS in Horticulture,
I've worked in the Fruit Orchard industry,
and in the Greenhouse industry.
As well as my own experiments, and experiences of gardening,
And still I learn something new everyday.
Thanks again!

Just a little off topic, concerning neem, it is much more than just an insecticide or fungicide, it has many many medical uses.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neem_oil