Starting this Topic to document the progress of my Fig Orchard. Pictures of the fig plants, pruning and training to the Japanese or Stepover Espalier form will be attached.

The attached links are of the air layers of the unknown Dark fig (unknown variety, BryantDark), The Posts with pictures show the Airlayers' early progress and the Mother tree and figs. These airlayers will be the first of 50 plants that will be planted to create an in ground espalier fig orchard. Another 30 plants (mostly named varieties) in 5 gallon buckets, which were stored in an attached enclosed porch are still fully dormant. It is too early in the season to plant in ground, outdoor gardening usually starts here at the end of May, after last frost.

Below are pictures of the future orchard location, a south facing slope which gets sun from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm in the summer. Also a current picture of two of the large airlayers (with a 4 foot level for size reference) that were removed from the mother tree in october 2013.  The air layers  were pruned to 3-1/2 feet, planted in 5 gallon buckets, stored indoors in an unheated room and have been dormant all winter. The cut ends were sealed with Elmer's School Glue, and there has not been any dessication or dieback, buds have formed and are breaking at the ends of every branch. The caliper at soil line (for both) is almost 2 inches. The plants currently live near a southeast facing window. The top 2 feet will be air layered off, after planting in ground.

These plants could also be planted in larger containers or in ground and pruned to maintain a bush or tree form, due to the established scaffold branches.

I will post Updates.

Can't wait to see what you have in store in summer time, I am starting a few trees like this but instead of pruning the top I am simply bending them over to have the apical growth go horizontal so I am interested to see how yours are doing to compare to mine.

Chivas,
Thanks for commenting. The wood (1-1/2 to 2 inch diameter) has zero flexibility, it's a few years old, so I would not be able to bend it, even if I wanted to.
I would be interested in your results also.

The buds are breaking on the in ground fig trees in NYC, so I have to start pruning and training the BryantDark mother tree. I will be posting pictures of the mother tree over the next 2 weeks. It will be pruned and trained to a Japanese espalier form. The larger caliper vertical branches will be air layered after the tree leafs out, there will be about 18 air layers. All the branches have been marked for training, air layering or future removal. If the air layers are successful 6-12 will be available free, for local pickup only (if interested send a PM later in the season)

In the 2nd picture the crossing and damage branches have been removed and the smaller caliper (1 to 1-1/2 inch) vertical branches are being pulled down to the left (of picture) to form horizontals. There are currently 3 (three) branches over 8 feet tall that will be laid horizontal within the week. The entire tree will be pruned and trained horizontal to the left (of picture)

Keep us updated on your progress. I am trying my hand at this method too and would like to see how others are doing theirs.

Congratulations and good for you for all that work!  Shipping might not be so bad in the usps triangular tube box as long as the shipee pays in advance.   (Hint, Hint  :- )

I would like to come and see this project some day. I live across the river in Dutchess.

Tonycm, ... I plan on updating weekly.

Bob, ... If I had more free time, packaging and shipping would probably not be a problem, but time and resources are limited.

JohnnieB, ... Welcome to the forum community. Anything is possible, If the orchard is successful you will be on my invite list.

I am going to do the same thing you are. I am starting new plants this spring and will train them to grow them the way I need them to grow. I plan to grow the one foot from the ground on a wire or EMT pipe. Clipping them off every year to the main trunk. Letting new growth start each year for a main crop. Then when leaves fall cut them back again and cover them for winter. If I had your plants I would lay them on there side and cover there root. Then start training to grow along the pipe one foot from the ground. No I have never done this but how hard can it be?
With the tree cut down it can be covered for winter better. I will put the small hoop house over them in summer to protect them form sun and critters. I already grow vegies in small hoop houses and no matter how I grow my figs I will have to cover them both in summer and winter. This is my plan for ate least part of my fig trees.

Zone 8
South West TX

bigsmile542,
This is the plan. The air layers are at Step1. The verticals are spaced 12 inches inline and 8 inches on alternate sides.
 

Here is an apple espalier technique that can be used on figs...



This is a picture of the Bryantdark tree (Step 2) with three (3) smaller caliper branches laid horizontal and four (4) larger caliper branches being pulled down to horizontal. By the end of this week a simple frame will be installed to tie down the branches in their permanent position (the larger verticals will be air layered).



Simple frame installed... constructed of 4 foot fence posts and 3/4 inch EMT metal tubing. The tubing is connected to the fence post with 18 guage copper electrical wiring. The branches are connected to the tubing with Velcro plant ties. Wire is used to pull the larger caliper branches down into place, once they have been trained into position, standard plant ties will be installed.



Good Luck on your project and please post your results.

Here is an earlier post that includes links and a PDF with instructions and an earlier Topic with the original pruning diagrams and several links

Pete S  This looks like a very good plan. I think it will work for you very well. The PDF file on your last post has some very good info as well.
Lets see if I understand!!!! You prune to the node in the direction you wont the limb to go. Top node sends the limb up and a bottom node sends the limb down?
I this only going to give a one crop or a two crop? The way I see it is how you prune it. Cut off all this years growth and you will only have a main crop next year. What would happen if you cut only half this years growth and cut them off the limbs after the barba crop gets ripe. Keep this limb short to let the main crop ripen. Then cut the barba crop limb off in winter and let the main crop limb form the braba crop the next year round and round. I can't find any info on this just a idea. Your idea? and someone else please help?

Zone 8
South West TX

bigsmile542, ... If you are referring to the two nodes, You are only using one node, the weaker one, the other is a spare (Just in case). The yearly fruiting branches are all trained up. If you are doing an alternate vertical branching, the main horizontal trunk is trained to have the branches on the side.

If you had a breba only tree you could prune alternate verticals yearly. It had been mention in a topic on pruning Desert King fig trees.

Pruning to a large tree form or large espalier may work for your location (zone).

<Edit> You could also lay down the vertical branches in the fall and cover with the main horizontal trunk.

Yes saw something about the strong and weak nodes. I am trying to figure how to get two crops for one tree. Not just a main crop. It would be very easy to cover if cut off all this years growth down to the main trunk. But thinking I maybe able to get more from one tree. I am talking about the way I plan to do mine in the earlier post. I like your plan also.

Zone 8
South West TX

First fig tree to be planted in ground. Its an unknown that has been relocated from the Bronx, the roots are at least 35 years old. I have called it Noladark, it is a late fig which is very sweet with a rich taste. If it does well, It will be air layered and planted in the fig orchard on the south facing slope in the background.

Picture taken 4/23/2013


Picture Taken 6/27/2013



  

Boy there are some good root on those. Should do well.

Zone 8

Shuffled out the 5 gallon buckets that were stored in an enclosed porch, but were intentionally exposed to 15 Deg F temperature. These will be some of the varieties used for the orchard. The 1 gallons and 5 gallons growing indoors will be place in the re-purposed chicken tractor in the background. The chicken tractors will be used as temporary cold frames, when covered with plastic.

Minimal dieback:
Hardy Chicago, Alma, Papa John, LSU Tiger, Deanna, improved Celeste, Conadria, Stella, LSU Gold, White Marsailles, Unknowns...KrmkDark and KrmkLight.

Breaking buds and new leaves:
Hardy Chicago, LSU Gold, improved Celeste, Hollier, EBT, Unknown...KrmkDark.

Major dieback (over 12 inches):
improved Celeste (from 3 different sources), LSU Champagne, LSU Black, Green Ischia, Kadota (lowes) and  TE Brown Turkey

<Edit> Dead:
LSU Purple, Mission (lowes), Magnolia, Brown Turkey (Lowes)

Breba are visible and swelling on one Hardy Chicago and unknown...KrmkDark.

<edit> I will have to edit this list due to the fact that several branches that seemed dead on first observation are actually coming back to life (re hydrating)...

Good lucking fig jungle you have there. Spring soon come.

Zone 8
South West TX 

Hey Pete...You got some figs!  That menage a figues looks great.

Please tell me/us what mix ingredients you are using in your 5 gallon buckets.  It drains very well, and your trees really do great planted in this mix.  I'd like to use it myself.  If you can list the ingredients and proportions, I'd sure appreciate it.  (The BryantDark is waking up).

Love looking at your works-in-progress.

Frank

Hello Frank,
Thanks. That mix was the standard 5-1-1 mix...

5 - parts Pine Bark Mulch
1 - part Peat Moss
1 - part Perlite
Plus - 1 cup Dolemite Limestone and 1 cup Espoma Plant-Tone per 5 gallon. Also Dolemite limestone is added to the top @ 1/2 cup per month

I have since modified that to a 5-1-1-1 mix. The added ingredient is 1 part Oil Absorbent (Fullers Earth) from Tractor Supply, similar to Oil Dry. The new mix drains better, is more aerated, hold more moisture but its also heavier.

I have a similiar project going, on a much smaller scale, and I look forward to seeing your progress.  Great job so far!

Thanks Pete for the mix ratios. 

The Limestone neutralizes the acidic Peat Moss.  That's good.

Interesting additions, re: Espoma, and Turface-like substitutes.  By the way NAPA Auto has their own version of Oil-Dry....called "Floor Dry" SKU # 8822.

Thanks for the information.


Frank

brackishfigger, ... Welcome to the forum community... Thanks. Hopefully you will post pictures of your results.

Frank, ... The Espoma has micro-nutrients and Mycorrhizae. I add 1/2 cup per month along with my weekly Miracle Grow feeding @ 1 tablespoon / gallon of water. Note the MG is stopped at the end of August. Oil Dry and Floor Dry also work, I have tried both. I just prefer the Fullers Earth product.

ascpete, do you protect that tree in the winter being that you're in zone 6?  It looks too big to wrap.

thearabicstudent,

Welcome to the Forum Community...
All the large trees that I have documented are growing in The Bronx, NY. Most are not protected and have not been protected for years. From the information gathered from some of the original owners, some of the trees were covered when they were first planted and for their early years. NYC actually has many micro climates created by the buildings and structures, though the Bronx overall is usually colder.

I plan on protecting the trees planted in ground at my home, at least until they get established.

Update: 5/09/2013 ... Bronx NYC espalier.

Pictures of espalier progress on the Bryantdark fig tree. Pictures were taken during a sunny break between thunder storms. Breba figs are growing and are about the size of a dime.

Buds are starting to form at the nodes on the large horizontal branch at top of the picture.