ascpete-great stuff. this is the future of growing figs... they grow great fruit tree in japan and with sophisticated system..
i like their way of persimmon drying too if you v seen it.

Figaro, John,
Thanks.

Keren,
Welcome to the forum community.
Here is a PDF, which you may have seen, that has a lot of dimensions for planting an espalier fig orchard. Its in Japanese, but the graphics are self explanatory

On page 10 it refers to spacing between rows, 2.2 meters and also 3 meters and 6 meters which is spacing between plants (planting at 3 meters on center for the first 2 years then thinning to 6 meters on center later). If you review the pictures on page 6 & 15 one horizontal trunk length is approximately 9 feet (2.8 meters, 40 cm x 7).
This would put the space between plants at about 20 feet or 6 meters. Two (2) 2.8 meter horizontal trunks either side of the main vertical trunk, and 0.4 meters between plants for a total of 6 meters

On page 11 & 19 there are nodes on the roots, its Root Knot Nematode, so they are planting in 12 inch raised beds.

On page 13 & 14 Spacing of vertical limbs : 8 inches (20cm) between on alternate side of main trunk and 16 inches (40cm) on same side of main trunk. (I round out the conversions 4 inch = 10cm)
If the Verticals are in-line it would be approximately 12 inches between verticals.

Your dimensions are actually pretty close. Good Luck. Please post pictures.

Eli,
Thanks.
Although it looks at first glance to be sophisticated, It actually is quite simple. It uses the trees natural growing habit to produce maximum fruit in the minimum space. Once trained, the only thing that is required is yearly harvesting and pruning.

good stuff here on the Orchard density clause. cant belive their trying to patent this...

they say orchard density can be four times than normal upright planting, also talks about partial girdling to promote vertical growth by girdling the horizontal branch.

thanks for the japanese pdf..

Eli,
Thanks for posting the PDF patent for the pruning technique.
The increased density was mentioned in the Japanese Espalier PDF. Partial girdling is not really necessary if you follow the Japanese method by removing the apical tip, before placing the main trunk horizontal, but may be necessary for the occasional maintenance or repair of the espalier.

Picture taken today of the verticals and the horizontals. The tallest verticals are over 4 feet high.

If the horizontal trunks were burried for winter protection and then were left buried as a well draining raised bed I assume it would send out roots over its entire length.  Would this be a problem with this method?  Seems like it would make it easier to protect for winter each year.

I never got around to taking pictures of mine, I am debating the best way to do it, a raised bed would make it easier but would be a pain right now to accomplish, although it does make for a good argument on how to protect it for the following winter, I could just mulch on top, cover with some insulation and a tarp, make some upright vents for moisture and away we go.

Greg,
Rooting the entire main trunk is not a good idea if fig production is your goal. The plant will put most of its energy into vegetative growth, every single node will produce multiple shoots, which will grow as small diameter limbs, unless severely pruned. If you are looking to propagate the fig tree, this is a good procedure, because every node can be separated as a new tree.

Covering the main horizontal trunk in a "raised bed" or mound of leaves and straw with a tarp as a water resistant cover (tent) will be my winter protection.

Thanks Pete, so it's the balance of root/shoot that comes into play with this method?  Is there guidance on how long the permanent horizontal trunks should be for best productivity?

Greg,
You're welcome. Refer to post #52 and the linked PDF document for dimensions. Main Horizontals, approximately 20 feet, 10 feet for each main trunk.

I took some quick pictures of the step overs I started this year.

The larger one is RdB and the other is col de dama noir and a green fig.

Chivas,
Thanks for posting your fig espalier pictures.
Attached are current pictures of the Bryantdark espalier and Mother tree. The air layers were removed after the pictures were taken.
  

Pete,

Are you going to leave the uprights vertical or will you pull them down horizontal?  Then next spring let them grow vertical again?  

I am curious, how are you planning to winterize them Pete?  I was planning to wrap mine in burlap, bubble insulation, maybe some bags of leaves or other insulation then with a tarp and put in some air vents.

WillsC, Chivas,
The verticals will be trimmed to 2 nodes above the horizontal trunk and painted with pruning sealer. I will leave a few as an experiment, and tie them horizontal for the winter.
The limbs will be covered with a blanket and then a tarp will be draped over to form a tent. The tarp "breathes" enough to allow air circulation and stop condensation. The tarp and blanket was tried last winter in a Zone 6 , it was quite successful, the pictured Bryantdark espalier is located in NYC Zone 7.

This sounds like an easy method to winterize them, is there a certain type of blanket that works better for this?

How about concerns about mice/voles.  That blanket under a tarp sounds like heaven for them!  Is it just a matter of waiting until as late as possible so they will have already found someplace else to nest up for the winter, or do people use traps and death baits?  I'd like to skip those if possible and maybe use a material that they would avoid if that's a problem.  Maybe something like a biochar mulch under a white tarp.  Then I could rake it to either side each spring and back over the trunk each November.

Chivas,
I've used polyester blankets and quilted comforters, but any thing that has insulative properties and "breathes" should work. The tarp was a medium duty silver/brown color and the silver side was exposed to the weather. Leaves or straw (hay) will also work, with the tarp exterior cover.

Greg,
I have Peppermint and Spearmint growing wild as ground cover, it seems to deter mice and voles when used as "mulch" under the winter cover. I have read that mothballs are also a deterrent. I only had 1 plant out of 60 that was damaged (minor bark damage) by mice or voles last season.

<Edit> Greg,
I have a rock garden with Greek Oregano and Chives that's growing wild, I have never tried it for mice, but the Garter Snakes like to hang out in the rock borders.

Thank you Pete, that seems like a great solution!  Do you think that oregano might work well too?