I just received a Smith and a Ventura fig from kind Mr. James Robin.  They are mostly bare root, he left a little soil around the roots as they had already leafed out a bit. 

My questions are:

How deep do I plant the figs in a container - at the same level as they were before, or a little deeper?

Do I then trim back the leader (they are about 2  - 2 1/2 feet right now with some new growth and leaves on top.)  and if so, how much?  The Smith fig is a bit limp, bending on the older wood right beneath the new growth.  The rest looks fine.  So does the Ventura.

I really appreciate your help!

MK

First, you need to inspect very closely for bubbles/knots on the roots which are a dead ringer for an RKN infection.  You should do this with ALL plants you buy from anyone, regardless their reputation.  This is what an RKN infection looks like (*any* knots are unacceptable!!!):  http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=36917981&postcount=1

I would soak the plant roots in water for about an hour to hydrate well, then pot it up.

If you want to grow more of a bush form, plant it deep.  If you want more of a tree form, plant it at the same level as it was before or even shallower.

There is no need to trim back the tree.  Once you pot it, you need to keep it in a shady place, either full shade or indirect light.  Keep it there for at least 3-4 weeks before starting to acclimate it to partial sun, then to full sun.

MK, I would first soak the root in water before planting.  And plant it 3 or 4 inches deeper.  Over time the soil will drop down.  Use bamboo to stake the tree vertical.

PS - this JH Adriatic plant was a bare-root arrival from a generous fig friend about 6-8 weeks ago.  I followed the process I just listed, keeping it in my basement garage for upwards of 4 weeks before acclimating it to sun --- left/middle is the Marseilles Black VS a squirrel recently butchered, i'd intended to send to member 'fredfig'  :( :( :(

If watered in properly at moderate humidity outside, you shouldn't need to water more than once or twice over the next couple of weeks.

Thank you, Dennis and Jason.  I will definitely inspect the roots and soak them in water before potting them up. 

Is keeping the plant out of direct sun something that I have to do with bare root plants only, or do I also need to do that with the 2 figs that I received from Petals from the Past today that came in a pot?  They aren't very tall - 6 or 8 inches, and one has leaves.  (The other one did, too, but it's little branch broke off in shipping.)

As far as the limpness on the Smith right below the new growth, will staking the Smith with bamboo make that section firm up again?

Thank you again - you guys are great.

MK

It's widely accepted as something you need to do with any transplant - whether you're digging it out of the ground, up-potting it, bare-root planting it or otherwise.  Anything that impacts the roots, specifically, you need to give the plant a chance to recover.  Usually 3-6 weeks is enough to allow a plant to recover, but every plant is different.  Watch for it to show some 'leaping' (showing new growth) before even thinking about putting it in partial or full sun.

Understand that being in full sun is a LOT of stress on a plant, causing a LOT of evaporation.  Roots are the hydraulic "pump" supplying water to the leaves, so ... damage or disturbance to the roots interrrupts that flow of water to the top of the plant.  Placing a plant with recent root stress in full sun means it will risk evaporating more water than it can uptake via the roots.  If you put the plant  in the shade or indirect light for a couple of weeks, it allows the plant time to "rebuild and recover" before being placed under the strain of full sun.

You never know what conditions plants were in before you got them, I like to slowly acclimate them to sun if I didn't physically see where they were previously.  If a plant was in a shaded nursery and you put them in full sun, you will see 'leaf scorch' (sunburn), which usually presents as tan or off-white blotches that usually result in flaking off of leaf material etc. (it's usually not fatal, but will set the plant back).

I can't answer your question about the Smith.  I wouldn't feel comfortable giving you an answer without actually seeing the plant with my own eyes (or the view of a camera lens).

:)

Smiths are tough trees, so don't give up on it just because it's wilted.  Dennis and Jason gave you good advice.  Good luck with your trees.

noss

Thanks again, Jason - I needed that information.

And thanks for the encouragement, Noss.  You are always so cheerful on your posts!

I have potted them and am hoping for the best.  Very excited to start my fig journey.

MK