Quote:

Originally Posted by ascpete

<edit> There are no fungicides currently labeled for Figs. The fungicide was labeled for everything but figs, but instructs use on all garden fruits and vegetables up until harvest.
 Bonide_l811.pdf
 bp-69-w_PerdueUniversity_UsingOrganicFungicides.pdf     

Thanks for clearing that up. I don't know how persistent fungicides are or if they are even absorbable by plants, fruit or soil. Are they systemic? I believe some are like the ones for treating black spot on roses. If they are just topical and only effect the fungus they should be pretty safe. If they are labeled for peaches, strawberries, blueberries and other pick and eat thin skinned produce one would think a fig should be safe but then there is the glaring truth that they are not labeled for figs. I wonder if other countries allow the use of fungicides on figs. That in itself would not make it safe but I'm just curious.

Following this line of thought, on juvenile figs where you are interested in the maximum growth and health of the plant I suppose you could use the fungicide to retain as much foliage as possible as long as possible to achieve said maximum growth. You would of course have to cull all fruit production. I think that is a good trade off, especially with some zone pushers and plants that are notoriously slow and hard to establish, when you are trying to get the tree to a safe size.

We also have to consider this. Dr. Johnson said that the onset of fig rust to the point of dropping all leaves may be a protection to many fig plants. Especially with those that are susceptible to cold damage. When the photosynthesis stops from lack of leaves the tree begins to enter dormancy. As we all know a tree that is dormant will suffer less damage from freezes than a tree that is actively growing so at some point we need to be cautious about pushing the retention of leaves late in the season. In my part of the country, SE USA, our first freeze may come when the previous day was in the seventies or higher. Allowing the fig rust to defoliate the tree in late fall could ultimately mean the difference between the tree suffering die back to the soil or keeping the branch structure for next Spring. Lots to consider here. I think I will start removing all of my dropping leaves by bagging and getting rid of them. This may be a tiring job in the Fall but it will surely help to some degree. Not having all those fungus spores setting in the soil waiting till conditions are ripe for them to attack my next years leaves should help some. Maybe it will delay it a week or so. Who knows.

Here is one other thought. Could the soil be treated with a drench mid summer to kill the waiting spores? Can you even kill the spores or are they protected until they develop into fungi?  Would it be safe to do the fungicide treatment after the figs are all picked reducing the risk of early infection the following year? Maybe someone can answer these questions please.

Thank you all again for sharing valuable information gleaned from your recent LSU field fig day trip.

After years of dealing with rust and other fungal diseases on my property, I have come to the conclusion that it is something I will have to live with. Just like FMV. 

I can't possibly spray my entire fig orchard and fig hedges multiple times a year. The time, cost and effort would be prohibitive, not to mention the small possibility of toxicity to my figs and environment. Even if spraying did help my figs to a degree, the fungi and their spores are everywhere ... in the soil, on shrubs, grasses, trees all around my fig orchard. I would bet that the LSU test orchard is not sprayed for fig rust.

Nope, just add rust to all the other challenges of growing figs (fmv, birds, late winter freezes, rkn etc, etc). 
OK, now I've just depressed myself.

I have also come to the conclusion that rust is just a part of fig life in LA.  I am not up for frequent conscientious fallen-leaf ground cleaning or other tedious husbandry, not that I think it would do much good, the spores are ubiquitous down here, but I am willing to try a spray 2-3 times/yr at the appropriate time.  Thnks for the tip.

Does anyone recall what he said they use as preemergent herbicide?  One for winter and a different one in the spring (Pentax, I think he said, but can find no info online). What is a safe preemergent to use in the orchard (and vegetable garden)? 

Very nice photos of the orchard and the shared information. Thank you Danny, Charles, Vivian, Steve, Gene and others who attended the meeting and shared photos and information with us. Much appericiated.

Navid.

Thank You for posting. Please put me on the mailing list for the next field trip.

Since its been bumped, I'll sho my pics.  The first shows the 6-8 DC figs on the near left row.

I added my fig pics to post 7. Some are same as these. Didn't realize Brackishfigger had added too.

I'm wondering if tea tree oil would be helpful in controlling rust.  It's not a product labeled for use in this manner but it is a natural product and sold in health food stores and some folks in California have used it successfully to control some fungal and bacterial diseases on other fruits.

For tree rust you might consider spraying with dormant oil and sulfur while still dormant before buds open, it may help keep spores down.

Put me on the list for the next LSU event.  Sounds like you folks had fun!

Chavis and schaplin, you have picked up on a older thread from last year. I have gotten word, yet unconfirmed, that there will be no more fig days at LSU. I believe they have sold the rights to those trees.
"gene"

Those Tx Everbearing figs, look a WHOLE LOT like Celeste!

ah.  too bad but I'm sure we will find another event to have fun at

I still say those Tx Everbearing and Celeste look pretty darn close to the same fig to me!

Last year, I picked up 3 Tx Everbearing fig trees from 3 different sources to compare them to my large TEB.  I definately see how folks get Celeste, Brown Turkey and Texas Everbearing mixed up!  The TEB in those picks above look exactly like the 3 Celeste fig trees I got from JR 2 years ago.  They're fast growing and very productive.

bump

Ok. Now I see the difference between TX Everbearing and Celeste. My Cajun friends, thank you so much for the photos! They are beautiful! Over the past 2 years, I've been collecting Texas Everbearing figs to see if....a. they are the same as Celeste or BT.....b. Are they completely different. The ans is B.

Well, in my climate, TEV figs are ripening and so are Brown Turkey. BUT.....my 6 TEV trees have a differrent leaf pattern and the figs are larger and longer. My BT are ripe now. My TXEV are just turning color. Here are a few pics of my Tx Everbearing fig trees. Enjoy!

Dennis, nice pics. How does the Texas Everbearing handle the rain. I'm looking to rid myself of many of my trees that split and sour. So far O'Rourke and Alma are the only ones that take all the rain that can fall.
"gene"

Great thread. Thank-you Mr. Dennis for bumping this, I maybe never would have seen it.

Regards,
bill

Gene, it can split if there is too much rain. Here's a leaf pattern on one of my trees:

I am bumping this post up because there are a lot of confusion between Texas Everbearing and Celeste!  Above is one leaf pattern I got.  The other is a 3 lobed tree.  The fruit from both resembles Celeste.  And the pictures above that Danny posted----the Celeste fruit looks pretty darn close to Texas Everbearing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Danny, I think I need to take a trip to LSU and talk to Dr Johnson.  If I do, I will video the entire interview.  Interesting minds want to know.......

After much research its clear that 90% are actually just Celeste with variation in leaf patterns and differences in fruit depending weather and microclimate. Look up old posts on this topic.

Justin
I am not sure what you are saying.  Are you saying that the LSU figs are all Celeste with leaf and fruit variations caused by weather and microclimates?, or are you saying that the Texas Everbearing is a Celeste variant that resulted from effects of weather and microclimates?  I have heard people say that the Texas Everbearing may be a Brown Turkey variant but I have never heard anyone say it may be a Celeste variant.  Around here the Texas Everbearing sold in local nurseries has a deep lobed leaf similar to a Brunswick and it doesn't look anything like a Celeste or Brown Turkey.  I don't know what a Texas Everbearing but I do not think is a variant of either Celeste or Brown Turkey and is actually inferior to both around here.

Im saying that the majority of plants being sold in nurseries around here as "TX Everbearing" are actually Celeste. I think the TX Everbearing name was just a way to market the old southern favorite Celeste. From a nursery marketing perspective, its a great name.
I have about 5 trees in my neighborhood, all different leaf patterns, slight difference in fruit size but they are all Celeste. One of which i know was sold as a TX everbearing.

At this point, there could be a handful of different culitivars being sold under the tx everbearing name. 

Just my observations from field/nursery research in Texas.

bump

Any new news in reference to the LSU FIG FIELD DAY???