I was posting to posters in Canada on the GW forum thought i would share here.
Im not in Canada i live near chicago illinois and our summers are not long and hot. But i just have to be hardheaded and try the Madeira like you folks in Canada to see for myself and perhaps try to get a jump start during spring and even put in shed at night during mid spring when nights are still cool but shed is nice and warm and keep it in pot against warm south facing wall on cement patio. Here is the 1 fig i kept on plant ( 1 season old). I wanted to concentrate on growth and not figs this season as i have knocked the reast off and cut the top of plant for more side growth.
I look forward to your post from the north on fig grwoing as always.
Best Health
Martin

The secret will be in keeping it consistently warm/hot until it ripens. It will "ripen" in cooler weather, but will not have sweetness and flavor.

Dieseler
We lack consistent good combination of sun light and heat. I am in Zone 5 but Zone 3 is just 65 miles away that keep on sending cold air frequently. So I noticed that my plants in the backyard with cedar`hedge enclosure are doing much better (vegetative) than the few I put in the front yard for experiment. The front yard is open to the winds coming from the north and the plants there do not show vigour and the leaves are torn by the winds. So, I learned to keep the fig plants away from the air channel.
My trees with good crop, with figs size the same as your Madeira, are HC, Natalina, Bifara, Capelas, SAL (EL) and Marseiles (VS), Latarulla and Brunswick. Now it is race against time because the end of September means cold, wet and less sunshine (& time to dig the buried pots). I am relying on the thesis that as the tree matures the probability of ripening will increase. My oldest is Bifara which was bought in spring of 2007.
My feeling is that Herman's observations for NE also apply here as well; and his recommended varieties for NE are doing well here as well. All we needed is three extra week of summer like conditions in the fall to see good portion of the fig fruits ripen.
And yes we shall be trying Black Madeira here sometimes later after some more experience. All I have so far this season were two rain soaked ripened Latarulla (breba). Bifara is keeping the two brebas still green, hard but fat.

Dieseler, I like your Madeira plant because of its short inter node distances. All my plants have long inter node distances on the branches. Is it the cool temperatures, watering, soil or what other culture that may be causing long inter node distances? I have this gut feeling about some disadvantage of these long inter node distances but don't know what?

Fertilizing may be one reason for long inter node distances but I am fertilizing less than what I read on the forum. So, the plants may be happy with something else. Could it be consistent moist (not wet) soil? I should experiment with some plants by letting the pot soil dry up for short durations.

Dan, it must take you  a few hours to water your many trees. It takes me about an hour each time to do it.  I agree watering or keeping moisture makes the plant grow robustly with wider difference between nodes. Certainly fertiliser will add to it.

Ottawan,
what i have noticed particulary this year as i have some small plants that have grown this season .
Potting soil varies , miracle grow, shultz premium, and upm all mixed with some perlite and small bark with lime, its what i had i used .
Negretta, Ischia Black, Madeira, Pastiliere, Argentile a stubborn plant, all grow slow and get about the same fertilizer except Ischia which gets really "nuked" hard but what i notice is these slow growers have the closest nodes out of my plants, i fertilize them everytime i water with full dose except Ischia which get more than a full dose , the nodes are super close maybe because of the slow growth i think but i try to make them grow better with all the fertilizer.

My other small ones that took off like a bean plant right from the time i recieved them Ronde and Dark Portuguese have a big distance between nodes yet they get the same fertilizer as the above ones but these plants are just vigorous growers for me. It seems some types grow faster and hardier than others and these 2 fall into the catagory for sure.
For instance i recieved Pastiliere and Ronde in a 4 inch pot small healthy plants around May 16 both similar size, i just went out and measure them, Ronde is 32 inches tall and Pastiliere is 8 inch tall, Ronde has nodes a mile apart and Pastiliere has nodes very close together both same pots and fertilizer.
Now i slow down the fertilizer as season is getting older, but i always give them the water they need right until there dormant and then a real small drink in winter if they need it. When the cold hits as you know BOOM the leaves turn yellow fast what seems like overnight and lose there leaves soon after they go to a daydream sleep , when the real cold hits after there in garage they are in deep sleep and wont wake up till its there time. 
I did the same thing with my older plants when they were young, following year i will give weaker solution of fertilizer like my older plants except for the stubborn ones.
Im not saying at all what i do is the right way or anything its just what i do to get my plants a good start when there young for me. Take what i do with a grain of salt as these are just my experience . In hind site should i have gave Dark Portuguese and Ronde less fertilizer PROBABLY but thats ok there healthy and forgiving and im thinking next season i should get some figs to taste from these plants . Waiting to take daughter to band camp so i babbled on here!
Best Health