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Maltese Beauty how quick do they root?

what's the typical rooting time of these? i mean, do they root quick or slow? i have two nice thick green cuttings that are turning nicely dark. they had nice callus on the bottom after what seems like 4-5 weeks in the baggie, but no roots. now they are in the cups, and some of nodes are showing some sign of breaking out, but they are moving very slow. no visible roots yet. 

i need to look for gnatrol soon... just in case. 

Pete,

I don't think you can classify any type as fast or slow.  I rooted Maltese Beauty this year and had robust roots on all 3 cuttings in 14 days with a very light application of Clonex.   On the other hand Black Madeira cuttings given same treatment are currently at 40+ days and no roots...the cuttings still look great and no rot just won't root.  For others the BM root right away so go figure.  That batch of cuttings with the BM was some 30 varieties all from the same person.  28 varieties rooted great and two varieties refuse so far, BM and Sangue Doce.....that fig is the one I want the most to root....I think it is spite. 

will, i don't use rooting hormones. yeah.. it all depends on which batch and so on. Black Madeira wasn't easiest to root. they root slow. i think out of 5 i rooted so far, only 1 showed roots in the baggie. all of them were moved to cups before showing any roots. maybe Maltese Beauty will do the same. or just croak on me like NdC did after coming in nicely then suddenly just die on me. 

Pete, I rooted my MB using Root Riot last winter and  it took about 14 days also. No hormones. It has been very slow to grow
since moving it to a one gal pot. I will give it a larger home this spring and see what that does along with some liquid organic
fertilizer.

if it's going to stay in the cup for awhile.. i think i'll need gnatrol. physan 20 is keeping mold and fungus down, but i don't want to deal with gnats. and maybe some of dennis' liquid gold or worm castings. 

Pete,
I use small cup sips this year and really like them ( but not the gnats). The top is dry, I water through the straw. This plus a few yellow sticky paper sheets and I barely see any gnats.

i'm more concerned with larvae. haven't seen them indoor yet, but i saw one cutting i left outside rotting. when i pulled it out there were some larvae eating away on rotted barks. then again.. if i keep the cutting so if they don't rot.. there won't be a need. 

At 5 weeks I'd change what it's in no matter what it's in.  Tell me what it's in and I'll tell you what I'd move it to.  :)   I used ag perlite plus LF Sphag moss not touching the cutting plus a little peat moss. in a warm place.   1 shot.

my standard procedure in this case is move out of the bag and into the cup. as long as there is callus on the bottom, they should root sooner or later. just that waiting isn't fun. i know more i do to the cuttings, more chance the cutting failing. 

BTW, I score and use clonex, too.  Any tiny advantage I can get I use.

how the root hormone working out for you? i read in one of the post that root hormone helps with roots, but slow down the top growth. never used root hormone on figs before. tried to propagate rose and japanese maple using root hormone before, but they always failed. now i know little more about rooting, i might get a clipper and go visit a japanese maple i have been looking at for last 20 yrs. 

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