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Marseillese Black VS - how cold hardy?

Around the first of April it got very warm here in our part of Connecticut. We had in the basement a potted Marseillese BlackVS, a cold hardy pomegranate from Trees of Joy and a peach seedling from our Crawford peach treee. All three had started to leaf out. So we put then outside. Then late that evening a cold front came down and before we could get home and get the plants back in, the leaves on the peach seedling and the pomegranate had turned silver. About two weeks later all the leaves on the pomegranate AND THE PEACH seedling fell off and both tress died. But, the Marseillese Black VS had no damage to the leaves or the plant it's self. So, thank you Warren and Herman for finding it and testing it. I have been talking to other fig collectors now for about five years and from what they had been telling me, I was starting to think that Marseillese BlackVS might be a lot hardier then the minus 7 degrees the historical weather bureau is showing for the area where the tree is growing. 


Has any one been growing Marseillese Black outside without winter protection like Herman. But farther north? 

Herman, if you have it, could you possible post  again the picture of the bowl of Marseillese Black VS with a bowl of Sal's EL.

 Also Herman, in your testing have you come up with another fig to compete with Marseillese Black VS and Sal's for cold hardiness and taste?  

Thanks to all of you who have provided so much info on Marseillese Black VS and other cold hardy figs. My correct email address is robertcharper(symbol at)gmail.com.
Bob

Bob:Hardy Chicago,is somewhat similar in fruits,but is not as hardy.
I also keep my HC inground,and this winter it is much retarded by the cold,compared to Marseilles vs blk.
Also from past years H Chicago,has many damages,on trunk,that resulting from frost,and it was not enough to kill the plant.
Yet Marseilles vs ,in same conditions,has no visible cold damage on trunks.
Sal Gene is also similar,but it shows Fig M Virus,on leaves,and is also very cold hardy,even having it.
Fruits are  similar on these varieties,with differences in color when ripe,only.
I do not have the pixes anymore,in my computer,but can tell you,Marseilles,vs black,is moreblue purple,while HC,and Sal,is brown black,with Sal the lighter color.

Does the Marseilles vs blk seem to be affected by FMV? I have a plant that I received in a trade and it has FMV as bad as Gene's Sal's. I got one of those to in the same trade. Unless the trader gave me 2 Sal's by mistake, I don't know what to think.

Curious,
Little John


Bob,

Leaves are sensitive to sun when they have sprouted indoor, they need to slowly be hardened off, that explains leaf drop after turning silver. I had a few trees that did that when they were placed in the hot sun.

HERMAN: We to, have also  found  frost resistance is as important as cold hardiness. We get many a new nut or fruit here to get through the winter only to be killed by a late or early frost.


 LITTLE JOHN:  After reading your question about I went onto the internet for pictures of FMD. Then I went outside and checked all four of our Marseillese Black VS figs for FMD. As far as I can determine none of them appear to be affected by FMD.

BASS: We had been taking the plants out every day for over a week. They had acclimated to the sun. The damage came from freezing. It got down to 32 degrees for at least two hours before we got home. I have seen enough frost and freeze damage to be able to tell which is sun scald and which is freeze damage.

I was not surprise that the Pomegranate was affected by the cold. But, what really surprised me was the fact that the peach seedling was also affected by the cold. But, the fact that the fig was also in leaf and excaped the frost really, really surprise us. I think this Marseillese is going to turn out to be a real winner for the Northeast
Bob   

Bob:I also had a red leaf Peach,in my back yard on 9th,and tenth of May.and also it had almost all leaves Damaged,by frost,in those Morning.
Also a Bloodgood Japanese Maple,got damaged,and is damaged even now,from same frost.
Jujube too,and my Flowering quince.

Wild Forager:My Marseilles vs blk,coming from Warren Turner in Maryland,have no fig mosaic,at all,but If the tree you got cutting from,is in a tropical zone where Fig mites are present,it is possible to aquire the Virus.
It needs the spreading agents to be present in order to spread fig MV. That is fig Mites.
That is why they are called FIG Mites,because they are found on fig trees mainly.

Bob & Herman, thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom. I'll have to find another Marseilles vs blk as I'm unsure if I have the real deal.

Thanks,
Little John

LITTLE JOHN: I got my Marseillese Black VS direct from Herman last spring, as cuttings. I planted them out that following fall. I wanted the root system to develope over the winter. My plants are still small. But, if you have not been able to secure some by this time next year, send me an email and I should have extra by then.


 BASS: The pomegranate that was killed by the late frost this year was not the one I bought from you. It was the free one you sent that was of a different cultivar. The cold hardy one I bought from you was not put outside until just a week ago. I just re-potted it yesterday.  

HERMAN: two winters ago we even lost hickory seedlings to a late spring frost. So, yes I agree with you about frost resistance being as important as cold hardiness. Did you get the picture of the bowl of Marseillese Black VS I sent to you? 

Bob

i have a marseilles black i bought last year, and it doesn't seem to be as willing to branch as some of my other figs.  of couse, it got frozen back to the ground with all my ohter figs.  however, most of my other figs have put out several shoots and are growing more bush like.  not so with ms black, just 1 shoot, but it's growing well.   i did take the tip to encourage branching. 

anyone else notice this growth pattern?

Papayamon:It is very hard for me to accept that Marseilles vs black,died to ground in Florida last winter.
I do believe you,but,now you hear my story,and see why!
In May 2009,I had 10 cuttings that had rott Damage on some growing buds,so I could not list and sell them on Ebay.
So I pushed them inground around my old Marseilles vs black tree in the middle of the yard.
About 5 of them rooted,and so I left them inground there trough the winter to trial the cultivar once again,and.
With no protection,trough this winter ,they died half way down,to about 1 foot high in the Spring.
Now they are 2 foot high,and will be about three foot high when I will offer them for sale on Ebay,this coming November,and I have a hint,that they will have half a dozen to a dozen ripe fruits hanging on them too.

herman, i know it's hard to accept, but the temperature flucuations here are extreme.  it will be 70's, then in the teens, then 70's, then in the teens, etc.

this was a new plant, and maybe it will do better this year (it will, because i'm going to protect the hell out of it :)).  all i can tell you is i didn't have a single bit of fig tree survive the winter above the ground.  ko'd the desert king (2 of them) as well.

herman, how good are those figs on a scale of 1-10?

Last season Al wrote a response to dormancy about the cells in the fig tree as chilling temps enter the picture water migrates out of the cells and into between them, in short the fig tree is preparing and making its own antifreeze for what lies ahead (winter) he goes into detail but it allows the tree to protect itself as temps lower.
Its my guess if tree is not allowed to do that process as it does here in colder zones a sudden shock could set a tree back quite a bit and harm it before it has a chance to assimilate.

Here is the thread its the 3rd post down last 2 paragraphs.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fig/msg1114122620795.html

yes, take a tree that you have inside in a pot growing  in the 70's, and set it out when temps hit 17 degrees.  then let's talk about how cold hardy it is :).

Martin. I think what you said makes sense. I got a six foot sucker from a neighbor last fall. I planted it in a decent sized pot and trimmed it down to about three feet. It's been growing well and has put on four or five branches. A couple weeks ago, I left it outside overnight even though I took the rest of my figs inside to protect them against the cold temperatures. I went outside the next morning around six, and it was biting cold. There was frost on my neighbor's roof. All of the leaves on the tree had withered, and the new branches were limp and bent. I brought it inside and poured some warm water onto the roots, hoping for the best. When I got back home from work, the leaves and branches were completely back to normal with no frost damage. It seemed to me like the tree somehow withdrew some of the water from the leaves to protect itself from frost damage.

Martin, I don't know of any thing that can take 70 degrees one day and then take 17 degrees during the night. As I had mentioned earlier we have lost even hickory seedlings when the weather does that here. I was only reporting what happened to us with one potted Marseillese Black VS. I was only commenting on the fact that the two hour freeze killed the pomeganada, wich was no surprise. But the fact that the peach seedling which was about three feet was killed and not the fig surprised us. 


I was never aware that there was part of Florida that had that type of wide swings in weather. I thought we had it rough here in our part of Connecticut trying to grow figs where it can get as low as minus 21 degrees fahrenheit and has late and early freezing.

That is why we look for fig trees that have already been tested and proven in our area. Marseillese Black VS was found in the Maryland area by Warren Turner. It was then test farther north into New Jersey by Herman. Now we are testing farther north to see if it will perform for us, as well as it did for Herman

We think it might be able to even take more cold then the minus 7 degrees it took in Maryland. But, that does not mean it would be the best for your area. Nor for our area since we to have to deal with late and early freezes. How long the freeze last plays a part in whether or not a plant will survie or die. 

I think if were to have put maybe a 100 different fig cultivars out that day, some would have been killed while some would have been able to take it. I was only reporting that to our surprise Marseillese Black seems to be to a certain degree able to take some late frost or freezing weather.  

Those years where it goes from 70 or 80 during the day time several times and then back into freezing after a tree has broken dormacy, I would think most trees would be either killed or set back. I don't know how Marseillese Black VS taste. But Herman seems to think it taste good grown outside without winter protection in his part of New Jersey. 

Although I have never tried this before I will try to up load a picture of the fruit, so that others can see what it looks like.

Have you been able to locate any local  fig trees in your part of Florida, that have been proven over the decades to be able to take your weather most of the time? 

    Attached Images

  • Click image for larger version - Name: MarseillesBlackAUG28Harvest07001.jpg, Views: 72, Size: 45246

my ag agent told me fig trees would grow as bushes here, which freeze to the ground every year and then grow back.  looks to me as though he knew exactly what he was talking about.

this year, i'm going to make a big effort to protect the wood 6 inches above the ground, so it's not frozen so far back.

As lawyers say, I have "hung the rag on the bush" so will see just how hardy the MVS is this coming winter.  However, I am afraid that I will find the same conditions as the rest of you with wide temp swings.  I've had at least one fig frozen back by late frosts. 

I got several MVS cutting three years ago and had good luck rooting them.  I kept two;  this spring I put one of them in the ground.  Two years old, it had lived in a gallon pot since rooting and was root bound and stunted.  I dug a nice hole for it, sliced all the encircling roots (although it had already leafed out) and stuck it in the ground.  It just sat there for about three weeks, but now it is growing nicely, though still pretty small.  By fall it will be three or four feet tall. 

The other MVS was in a much large pot, about five gallons.  I did not have larger pots at the time I potted it.  Last fall I trimmed it way back so that I could send out some cuttings.  I stuck it outside about the second week of April along with all my other potted figs.

The MVS, heavily pruned, just sat there.  Celeste, the Bayernfeige Violetta, Kadota,
Kathleen's Black, Grantham's Royal and others leafed out and shot upward.   Now, withing the past week, the MVS is taking off like a rocket.  I fully expect to get a nice fig crop from it late this summer. 

Oddly enough,  a Joe Morle Paradiso, in the ground two years, is not growing as well as a Celeste planted next to it.  The Celeste froze to the ground last  year due to a late frost.  The Paradiso did not suffer as much and outgrew the Celeste last year.  Both trees were under fifty gallon barrels this last winter and  both came out with no damage.  The in-ground MVS, in the same sheltered location, will go under a barrel as well next winter. 

A point of interest:  The two largest trees I have in pots are two dissimilar unknowns taken as cuttings from trees that have been growing in sheltered locations in Tulsa for many years.  I have no idea what they are, but they are not Celeste. 
Ox

Hi Robertharper,
cant locate local trees in my part of Florida as i reside near Chicago. ; )
I was only pointing folks to the thread by Al  that are curious as to what goes on inside a fig trees branches and what may or may not have  happend to Papayamon"s fig plant.
I grow them in containers , grandparent grew one inground a rather large one and all got together every year to bury it, im very familar with growing in ground from those years.

In reading Papayamons post his fig plant was probably  no more than 1 full season old when that weather occurred .
Its always best and has been stated many times that before going inground in a colder zone such Chicago, Jersey, NY, etc the plant should be several seasons old.
I grow in containers for less hassle for me in burying them or covering them just to much work for me. Growing in my area inground and left unprotected out in the OPEN is out of the question .

Martin, sorry about the mix up of names. That post was suppose to be a response to Mike in Florida. 


We have been looking for a fig that can go through the winter without winter protection and ripen figs, in ou rcold zone 6 part of Connecticut.

 I agree with you as to there may not be perhaps a fig that will over winter without being winterized in a zone 5.

But, to our surprise we were able to get one fig to ripen from a in question, "Hardy Chicago" fig, that had been killed to the ground. After it resprouted, we pinched it, added fertilizer and three figs appeared. Only one ripened. But we pinched late sometime in July. We did no read Herman's post about pinching until after the season for pinching was just about over.

This is one of the things we will be testing. That is to see if we can get a decent size crop from a particular cultivar that has been frozen back to ground level, then come back and produce. One of the reason we are looking for cultivars that could ripen in mid July, if not frozen back. But, still ripen it's figs later after being killed back to the ground. 

I have started to hear from growers in some parts of the north who are doing just that. 

Mike, I have found that a lot of figs up here that do not ripen is because they were not pinched back. Then for three months or so the plant spends all it's energy making more green figs, instead of ripening the ones that it produced in July. That might work for any one who has to deal with late and early frost.

Is there any one out there who is getting a decent size crop from a fig that is killed to the ground each year. But, then comes back grows and still produces a good size crop of figs.

I have read post where some growers are getting ripe figs from trees that have frozen back to ground level, and I don't think they are pinching. 

So, on top of looking for figs that are winter cold hardy, late & early frost resistant, and taste good, we are looking for figs that have those traits and can still produce a decent size crop after dying back each year. This may end up being the only way those of us in a zone 5 location or a very cold zone 6 location can grow figs outside with out winterizing. Bob  

If they are getting ripe to perfection,in My climate in a hot long Sommer,then it is a 10.
If they ripe in a cold rainy Sommer like the last 2 Sommer were in New Jersey,They are still,a 8,and the color is earthy green,not blue purple.
My opinion,is that in Florida climate,they will be at least just as good as in NJ,and even better.

Taste pretty good here in southern B.Columbia, Canada. The wife & son prefers them citing excellent flavor.  I have
planted the tree in the ground recently and hope it gives me bountiful harvest next year.

robert, the upside to this is that i didn't get any frost until december, and my figs ripened in oct/nov.  by the time i got freezing weather, i had picked every fig.  the one fig that i had this time last year (not a marseilleses black) is way ahead of where it was at this time last year.  i'll see if it produces earlier this time around.

i put my marseilles black out last year in november.  it had only time to freeze to the ground and barely survived.  i did pinch the top and it's starting to branch now.

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