If I was rooting temperate material indoors, I would use some sort of tenting arrangement to keep humidity levels around the 90% range. I own a glass company, so it's a snap for me to build propagation chambers out of glass. I would use bottom heat to warm the soil to around 75*. I would also keep the cuttings under good light that favors the blue end of the spectrum (cool white) - probably something like 18/6 (18 hours on, 6 off).
What you root in doesn't matter much, as long as you stay within some parameters. The material you use should be stable and highly aerated (vermiculite and potting soil are neither). BIG air spaces that are very high in humidity offer the best environment for rooting. The material should have a favorable pH and not be phytotoxic. Screened Turface and perlite fit that bill very nicely, but you could also use pumice or Haydite, even crushed granite if you wish. I like screened Turface because it holds LOTS of water in internal pores, but no perched water.
One thing that DOES make a difference is the addition of sphagnum moss (SM) to your media. SM has been used for centuries as a poultice for wounds, because of its ability to absorb and its anti-bacterial/fungal properties. As a plant root zone media it is especially useful due to its water-holding, water-releasing properties, and because it contains phytonutrients that stimulate roots and prevent root zone diseases. It is even capable of absorbing moisture from the air. Every part of SM is permeated with tiny open tubes and spaces, resulting in a system of delicate capillary cells similar to that of a sponge. The cells readily absorb water and retain it. Even if the water is squeezed out, moss does not compact and is always ready to take in fluid again.
SM produces an antibiotic substance (sphagnan) that staves off rot in several ways. It binds with proteins on the surface of microorganisms in a way that immobilizes them and takes them out of the picture. Its highly reactive carbonyl groups also alter the chemicals and nutrients that would be necessary for the decomposition of organic matter. SM also causes the organic matter to undergo certain chemical changes that make it more impervious to rot— actually similar to how animal skins can be preserved as leather.
I don't fertilize until I'm sure the cuttings have rooted. Low soil EC and TDS (EC = electrical conductivity and TDS = total dissolved solids [in the soil solution]. These are measures of soluble salts/fertility) facilitates water movement into cells and conversely, higher levels of EC and TDS inhibit water movement into the cells of cuttings. When cuttings have rooted, I apply low doses of a complete (including micronutrients) fertilizer with a RATIO of 3:1:2 (do not confuse ratio with %. 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are ALL 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers.