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My one and only Original.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
so, they say..., one doesn't need to remove a ring of Cambium at the air-layer area  in order for the branch to root, is it a fact or assumption? Should I or shouldn't I remove the ring of Cambium at the Air-Layer area?


Aaron, I've done about a dozen air layers on figs and half a dozen on mulberry. Sometimes I girdle the branch, sometimes I don't. It seems to work either way. I noticed that on my mulberry, the 2 that I did not girdle (out of 6 total) took a little longer to root, but they did root. Also, I have tried with and without Clonex Rooting Gel. Again, seems to make no difference.

Only time I lost an air layer was when I made the medium too wet and the branch rotted.

I think you could literally grab a handful of dirt from the ground and wrap it around a branch with an old plastic bag and it would work most of the time. Just do it.

I didn't ring the last air layers done on 9/7 and they all have roots.  

Paul, thanks, I think I'll do like that...just rap the medium around the branch with no cutting or scraping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
so, they say..., one doesn't need to remove a ring of Cambium at the air-layer area  in order for the branch to root, is it a fact or assumption? Should I or shouldn't I remove the ring of Cambium at the Air-Layer area?


Apparently not necessary for figs, but removing the ring forces all the sugars flowing down the cambium to go into root production, since they cannot travel further down the branch.  In theory you should get better roots.

Hi Aaron4usa,
I would airlayer a fruiting branch to be sure that the airlayer keeps on fruiting.
Airlayering a non fruiting branch may lead you to a non fruiting tree in the first years of life of the new tree.
I airlayer between May and July here in Zone 7.
I never girdle and airlayers do root - just leave them the time to do - but each one as his own way of doing .
So the choice is yours.

That's a sad looking plant for being 7 years old.

Pretty everything about it's placement is wrong considering my 10 month old plants are nearly that large (in ground in PA and in pots) and others on the forum have grown from seed and gotten fruit in under 2 years.

Yea I don't like it either, but it's an 8 footer and this year it surprised me. So, I am doing something about it.

WHO TAKES A FIG TREE FROM A COURTHOUSE?

[image]

Guilty!!

But It was worth it.

ok, so... this is what I did..

just sliced the honey jar from top to bottom and made a hole under it so the branch can be comfy both on top opening and bottom one. 
filled it with potting soil and slide the branch in the jar and taped it, almost but not completely air tight. Tapped it a bit to make the soil settle. 
That's it.
Didn't water it. The soil was moist but not wet.
Should I compact the soil?
I don't know what I'm doing.
I didn't scrape the branch nor girdled it. Didn't want to take any chance spoiling the branch.

What you guys think?


20141029_173123.jpg  20141029_173041.jpg 


I'll bet it roots just fine, even without girdling the wood.  I would add foil around the cup so the sun doesn't burn the roots up.  I would also ensure the top doesn't allow for too much rainwater to enter.
I moisten the mix beforehand and never add water thereafter.  I don't compact the mix, but I tap it pretty good just to make it snug.  Monitor the dampness of the soil though, as your climate is different than mine.  Also, you will need 4-8 weeks of active growing to achieve roots.  Then, after removing the air layer, a couple weeks of acclimation to the pot will make it more stable before it goes dormant.

Looks good to me and what Frank said.

Hi,
I water twice a week my ground layers ... Just check that water can escape at the bottom as this is not an house for a fish .
The idea is that the tree will make roots to take the water at that place.

Thanks guys.

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