I admit that I have done this too many times. I just did it again last week to three or four trees. That's the hardest part for me: Going from the humidity bin to dry air. I understand that the idea is to adjust the plant from high humidity to lower humidity over the course of about a week. It is not as easy as it sounds. If you are using bins, you can open a crack in the lid. Start with a tiny crack and gradually open wider each day until the bin is uncovered. I would use a humidity meter in at least one of the bins to get an idea of how much humidity the open lid was letting out. A small opening can let out a lot of humidity.
I don't think the lights were too bright and were probably not to blame. I think the problem was too dry too soon. I think those lights would be fine as long as moisture and temperature were controlled properly. But the lights probably make it hotter and drier than it needs to be.
Some of my cuttings come back after getting post-humidity shock, but not all of them make it. I cut off the dead leaves to prevent further desiccation. Also, if it is a tip cutting, the tip will often look shriveled up and wrinkled like a prune. If so, I'll cut it back to the next good node. I would agree with Brian that they should go back in the bin until showing some signs of recovery. If I have already potted them into soil, I will not put them back in the bin for fear of gnats. In that case, I just keep them in the shade and mist them frequently while keeping the soil damp.
I put my most recent batch of cuttings from rooting in coir directly into 1 gallon pots with soil outdoors. If that goes well, I can skip the whole humidity chamber and adjustment period.