Potting up some plants this morning and using a fertilizer pellet with mycorrhizal fungi (MF henceforth) spores got me thinking about the potential benefits of introducing fungi at all points of fig growing.  Most of what I have to say is generalizations, since google likes to change 'ficus' to 'focus' and thinks 'fig' is short for 'figure'...go FIGure. The only real evidence pertaining to figs is that figs in China have been found to be colonized by MF.

Since it's been repeatedly shown in research that MF improves plants drought tolerance, ability to gather nutrients, and ability ward off disease (especially soil borne) there is definite cause to inoculate established plants. Many forestry plantings to inoculate new plantings, especially when they are bare root plants, in order increase establishment percentages.

To me it would make sense that introducing MF during the rooting period would be beneficial to cuttings.

I'm sort of experimenting with this now, cuttings started 3/21:
-1 set of cuttings in a blend of 1/3 Dr Earth planting mix (bark based compost with inoculants) and 2/3 perlite
-an identical set of cuttings in a blend of 1/2 standard potting mix and 1/2 perlite
-a couple 2 node leftovers in pure perlite for giggles

It's hardly an academic, rigorous experiment, but it could be interesting. The picture is of the cuttings in the inoculated mix.




I know Jon suggests compost in the cutting mix, perhaps there is fungi in that as a benefit?   Any thoughts?

thought about using it.. but figs.. well they are like weeds. they just grow without much attention given to them. some CP (carnivorous plant) growers swear by that thing. i toasted all mine... CP are nice while they lasted but takes too much hand.  

I was thinking the same thing, Kelby.  I have a similar experiment started last week.  Time will tell, but I believe, as you do, that during the rooting process, the MF could do nothing but help.  I have a mixture of 75/25, 50/50, 25/75, and 0/100 MF mix to perlite with a sample size of 20 (5 in each mixture- same variety Sals GS).  We will have to compare results. My "experiment" is hardly a large enough experiment to get any solid results from, but maybe at least it will suggest MF presence as a possible positive influence on rooting (even vs. time).

Some potting mixes have that stuff in it.

I’ve studied mycorrhizal fungi a bit and done some experiments of my own based upon advice I've read. This was completely unrelated to figs but it’s translatable. Mychorrhizal fungi (not unlike other types of fungi) require cool/moist soil temps to establish and thrive. When soil temps rise above 50 degrees, it’s difficult to keep it alive. A potted plant in the sun doesn't require a very warm day to produce soil temps inhospitable to mycorrhizal fungi. If the goal is short term boost to cuttings, maybe you realize some benefits in a small window of time. I say maybe because it seems the target temperature for establishing cuttings north of 70 degrees and that’s simply going to produce a soil temp that’s too warm. There’s a lot of information out there and lots of different points of view, so you’re right to do your own testing to see what works for you. 

Blake is correct.  Pete is correct.  Figs are weeds.  They need no help once established.  They are on a mission to survive.  They have this glorious fruit inside protection.  But the actual tree will lift your house with its roots if you plant it too close.  I do not think they need help from some mychorrhizal fungi. 

Just my take on it.

Suzi

Blake, I think you mean 50 celcius, because that is close to the upper limit for fungi. Much too hot for cuttings. If you had problems they may have not even been related to temperature. From what I have read ph is the largest factor affecting colonization, because different species have their own preferences. It is recommended that several species be introduced in order to find one that is compatible with both the plant and the growing conditions. Also, I read that some products were just not as high quality as others or may have passed their expiration dates.

Suzi, all the large healthy trees you see in ground are more likely to be in a relationship with this sort of fungi than not, they are ubiquitous to soil. I wonder how you can tell the ones that are being helped by mycorrhizal fungi from the ones that are not? 

No, I meant Fahrenheit. I believe 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered optimal for many forms of fungi including mycorrhizal. You're right about soil conditions and my recollections is that mycorrhizal fungi prefer slightly acidic conditions. 

You must have been looking in the wrong places Blake, I can find solid references where the AMF not only survived 45+ celcius but also reduced the heat stress of the potted plants.

There are uncounted species ranging from the Arctic to the Amazon. There are optimal conditions for each.

Watch the video linked within the first post in the thread below:

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/slightly-ot-a-ted-talk-about-phosphorus-6602612?pid=1280180183#post1280180183

Perhaps. Or perhaps my ability to kill things knows no bounds! Still, I stand by my opinion. Sure, there's lots of references out there and for many sides of the coin. Also many kinds of mycorrhizal fungi as you've pointed out. Again, I'm not suggestion mycorrhizal fungi is not beneficial, just that it doesn't seem to lend itself to potted figs in full sun. There could be benefit to increasing nutrient flow in cuttings but that will not be long lived. And quality product isn't cheap so I'd question whether multiple applications are worth it.

If you use it be careful not to also use fungicide sprays for gnats or any other fungicide for that matter.

I pour mycorrizae fungi directly on roots of my cuttings, and also when I up-pot, don't know how beneficial it has been but I use it! I do know this is better option than using mycorrizae pro-mix, which is probably too diluted.

I've been doing reading on MF and I think they can be very beneficial in some of the FMV cases, also in helping the tree fight against lots of things... they may be like weeds in their native environment but we are often asking them to grow in other places so I think giving them the best chance to be naturally healthy is called for. I got a very interesting text book on Amazon, dry but informative.

Rafael the mycorrhizae in Pro-mix is actually live tissue as opposed to spores like a powdered product. If you get a fresh bag you can probably spot some of it growing shortly after adding water. The live tissue provides a quicker result than spores. Pro-Mix says they produce their fungi in a controlled environment to avoid contamination but you can actually do it yourself.

Here is some further info:
http://rodaleinstitute.org/2010/quick-and-easy-guide-on-farm-am-fungus-inoculum-production/
http://rodaleinstitute.org/2010/a-complete-how-to-on-farm-am-fungus-inoculum-production/
http://www.extension.org/pages/18627/on-farm-production-and-utilization-of-am-fungus-inoculum#.UzDK_3lDvZg

Blake, I think it will really vary by environment, host plant, and fungi type, but 50 degrees sounds wildly inaccurate.

A quick Google shows this:

"In experimental systems, there is usually an increase in percent colonization between 50°F and 86°F (10°C and 30°C). (Note that these are soil temperatures, not air temperatures.)" The same article also says temps below 50 leads to essentially no fungi growth.

I do find it unlikely MF would die in pots from heat considering how hard it is to solarize pathogenic fungi in soil.

In regards to figs being weeds, that's for you people in Paradise! Here in PA I'm trying every trick I can think of to push my zones and grow hardier/heartier plants. I'm only intending (I know, I know that's what they all say) on growing in ground, with the exception of the young ones that need some time to fill out.

I just bought a bag of pro mix with mf. It was outside in freezing weather all winter. Did the mf die? This same half of a pallet was just sitting there outside in this big box store and now I fear the freeze may have compromised the mix. Did I get ripped?

Brent thanks for that info, who'da known it?

I too use Mycorrhizae on the existing roots when I am repotting or transplanting. I don't know how anyone can use it successfully on cuttings, will be interesting to see your results though. All the best

Kelby,
I use Espoma-Tone products on all fig plants one gallon and larger. For one gallon plants I sometimes use 1 tablespoon of Espoma Bio-Tone Starter Plus with Mycorrhizae, its a balance fertilizer with available Calcium and micronutrients with 8 different Fungi species and 7 different beneficial Bacteria species. It makes a big difference in the growth and health of the plants. I also use regular Garden-tone or Plant-tone with Mycorrhizae for 1 gallon and larger pots.

 I dont use Espoma products for newly rooted cuttings because I've noticed a reduction in survival rate (increased rot) with their early use, which may be caused by the introduction of bad microbes in the organic fertilizer. I've never used a separate Mycorrhizae product, their results may be different.

It is also proven that seaweed promotes good fungi.

For the moment the rooting mix I'm trying has MF (Dr Earth's Probiotic blend) in it, I could see some mycelial strands in the mix when I opened the bags.

For the established plants I have (I didn't root these) I'm using fertilizer tablets with 10 or 15 species of MF in it, they're designed for commercial nurseries and forestry but can't hurt. A bit higher in nitrogen than I normally like, but I'll balance it out with the other fertilizer I use that's low in N.

After a little more reading I think I learned something else that could be important. 

Different types of roots get different types of benefits from MF. Different types of MF have different benefits.

Some plants have short thick roots, like onions, that are not very good at extracting minerals from the soil because they just cant reach them. MF from the family Gigaspora help stubby rooted plants by collecting minerals, which they trade for sugar.

Other plants, like figs (foxtails were used in the study), have fibrous root systems that are good at extracting minerals from the soil, but are vulnerable to pathogens because they have many more points that pathogens can attack them from. MF from the family Glomus helps these types of plants by protecting roots from pathogens. 

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3001584/

Although some mycorrhizal fungi can associate with a broad range of hosts, many are species specific and ones that associate with several garden vegetables are not all that likely to cross over to woody trees.