Total fig newb here.  I'm interested in getting some fig trees for my yard.  I'm live in MD (zone 6b) and was wondering how bad everyone's die back was from this past winter in the NE (which was particularly bad last winter).

I've written to Herman2 and he indicated he had die back with the Marseilles Black VS variety.

From what I've read, the MBVS is supposedly one of the hardier (if not hardiest) varieties obtainable.

Other's I've read which would be good for my area include:

• Celeste
• Hardy Chicago
• Brown Turkey
• Maryland Berry (or Brown Turkey Maryland or possibly MBVS)

you can do a search as there have been many conversations in the past over cold hardiness as well as this past winters effects.
in a nutshell, this past winter, pretty much everyone had die back on pretty much anything that was not protected and many that were.  some are coming back, some are not

Smith,
Whatever fig you choose, if in ground, it will need protection at least for the first two to three years. In Zone 6B I would say try to protect it as long as you can, until you get a minimum of two inch thick trunk.
One respected member in this forum recently announced that he lost all his in ground trees this past winter in New Jersey.
I had figs in the ground here in Texas and they were Col de Dame(3) a Black Madeira also a Violette de Bordeaux. They all had die back but they all came back vigorously.
Over two thirds of the trunk got killed and I thought that I had totally lost them. They were in their first year. Remember that Texas is zone 8B.

Last winter was an anomaly, I hope. All my in ground trees were last covered about  4 years ago and suffered little to no damage. Earlier I thought they did not die to the ground however, Vista Mission, MBVS, Sals (Gene), Hardy Chicago, 2 Lyndhurst White died to ground and all sprouting nicely

I expect to get some figs this year.

My dalmaite is growing well, it died back to the soil but sent up about 12 strong suckers, which I thinned out, bent over etc and most are about 2 feet tall already, I doubt I will get figs on it this year but if it doesn't die back to the ground this year I should have some next year, rdB died back to the ground as well but I protected poorly but it will soon be huge again as well, col de dama noir died back in similar circumstances as rdb but it should be fine this coming winter I am hoping, but no figs from it this year.  Niagara black didn't die all the way abck to the soil on a first year tree, only about 3/4 of the way dead and it about 2 feet tall again with several suckers.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/winter-2010fig-cultivars-cold-hardeness-results-4640563?pid=1275010559#post1275010559

I found this thread, also started by herman pretty helpful

http://www.hicksnurseries.com/documents/howto/Figs%20-%20Letter%20Paper.pdf

I'm in Maryland too.  A little closer to the coast than you and all my potted figs in my unheated shed either totally died or died back to the ground and are about 4 inches tall now.  The Hardy Chicago I had in the ground unprotected outside died back to the ground as well.  It was about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter so not a tiny tree.  It was my first year growing figs here and I wanted to see if you actually needed to go through the hassle of wrapping them up here.  You do.  It dropped to 0 degrees twice this winter and stayed in the single digits for many days.  Wrap them up, put them in a shed, and even then who knows...

Greg88 said it all. Just a note-you referred to Marseilles Black, and later to Maryland Berry MBVS. Actually, MBVS refers to Marseilles Black VS (Herman's initials).

One variable that will determine whether or not you get ripe figs from a severe dieback is WHEN the tree starts to regrow. My Hardy Chicago died to ground level last year but regrew much earlier than it did this year. Last year it ripened close to 100% of all the figs. At this time last year the tree was about 3 feet tall. This year I doubt I will get very many, if any at all. I only have 5 sprouts that are 12 inches tall so things aren't looking in my favor. This summer will be another test. I should know by September.

Great information.  Thanks to all that responded.

Basically what I am reading is the following:

1.  For the first couple of years, regardless of the variety, winter protection should be used
2.  Regardless of the variety, a severe winter (such as last winter) will cause significant die back

From statements 1 & 2, I'm guessing if I'm serious about growing cold hardy fig trees, to be on the safe side, I should intend to provide winter protection.

From what I've read on this awesome forum, many, who live in zone 7 or below, container grow their figs and then move them to a covered area (shed/garage) for the winter.  Is this the best course for having your figs survive the winter?

As BronxFigs said in his die back post for last winter...

"Growing fig trees is easy, it's keeping them alive -through freezing winters- is far harder."

smithmal

smithmal-

Please, heed all the postings re: die-back, winter-protection, etc.  While last year may have been a freaky winter, there is no guaranty that coming winters will be any kinder to our fig trees.  A great number of our forum members are now re-growing what was lost to die-back, and the death toll for figs trees was very high.  It's no fun seeing a collection get wiped out or badly damaged because of one bad winter.  All it takes is just one.

Do what ever is necessary to protect your trees from the deep, freezing temperatures.  There's good advice written above.  If you are planning on growing in ground, in Zone-6b, be careful, and do take the recommended precautions.  In ground trees in colder climates is always going to be a daunting situation. 

Your posting #11 just about sums it up.   I got wise, but, too late. I gambled and lost. Ten years of hard work got flushed down the toilet.   Instead of harvesting and eating some delicious, home-grown figs, I'll be nursing just a bunch of rooted "twigs" for the next few years.  Not a good thing for this fig lover!

Use protection.


Frank

Sas, who lost all their in ground trees in NJ? 

DO NOT BUY CELESTE!!! Waste of money in the NE and it is also often mislabeled and sold as other varieties.

Brent, 

It was a private message. It read: "My in grounds are either dead or dead to the ground. It was the worst winter I can remember."

Brent, I can't speak to regular Celeste as I gave my young Celeste away a couple years ago to a friend.  However, according to Vasile/Herman2, Improved Celeste (O'Rourke not) is supposed to do well in his area.  I have a young I.C. and am thinking of keeping it and seeing how it does.  Have you tried growing this one?

I planted about a dozen figs in the ground this Spring.  This was part of a long-term plan and I decided to stick with the plan even with the exceptionally cold winter.  I will have a lot of protecting to do in the late Fall.

http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Cold_hardy_figs/

Steve, I got IC as O'Rourke last season. And also more cuttings from Vasile's IC this season. From what I understand none of the LSU varieties drop fruit like their mother.

Sas- I thought I had missed something, thanks for the clarification.

So, with young fig trees, is it better to bring them indoors for the first couple of winters rather than provide good winter protection?

Also regarding Celeste, where can one purchase an "O'Rourke" strain of it? Is the O'Rourke the best choice in my situation (zone 6b).

smithmal

I don't know which is better. O'Rourke and the Improved Celeste we are talking about (O'Rourke not) are both very early ripening, which is good, there is also another Improved Celeste available from Just Fruit and Exotics that ripens later. But which is hardier I have no idea, I think O'Rourke might be more vigorous than IC (O'R not) which is a good thing. 

You can try contacting Edible Landscaping to see when they will have more.

O'Rourke flesh is golden with red near center of the fruit when soft ripe. Ripens before Celeste. Fruit hangs down when fully ripe. O'Rourke is more resistant to defoliation caused by fig leaf rust. Ripens its fruits early and continues late into the fall. Zones 6-9 Space 10' circle 

Thanks for all the suggestions an info

Here's my thinking...

In ground next to NE wall with protection in winter: Marseilles Black VS and Hardy Chicago
Potted and keep in garage during winter: Violette de Bordeaux, Desert King and Olympian

Does this sound like a good plan?

Would love to also do a Norland in ground, but I can't seem to find any sources.

Does anyone know of any or could maybe share some cuttings later this summer?

Thanks,

smithmal

Nordland is sometimes misspelled as "Norland".  Smithmal, is Nordland what you mean?  If so, click on the hypertexted "Nordland" in post #19.

Rewton,

Thanks for the response.  I missed the hyperlink for some reason during the first re-through.

smithmal

Mike,

Awesome info there.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.  Actually I meant a east facing wall (brick garage wall).  Should act well as an artificial heatsink.  Unfortunately everything in the south/west side of the yard/house is shady by huge oak trees.  I will also provide good winter protection (string+hay+burlap+white cover (similar to what is seen in this video)).  Hopefully this will be adequate?

Smithmal

Don't forget that while container culture helps a great deal during bad winters like this, eventually you have to pay the piper by dealing with root pruning every three years or so depending on size of container. Also, since it is a closed micro-environment, you have to add fertilizers and find the right mixture that works for you. michaeltucson said it right-a well draining soil is also essential, stay away from heavy topsoils. And add pelletized limestone in abundance, figs love that. I use a custom blend of pro-mix hp mycorrizae, limestone, sand, regular compost and if I have any, mushroom compost. Turface is also a good additive for good drainage. Worm castings are also good to add to the surface. I also use a pinebark mulch, not sure if it really helps. Pinebark fines get a lot of press as a good soil additive as well. Monitoring your ph seems like a good idea as well.