I will be planting about 45 cuttings(approx 20 varieties) in tropical Malaysia on my holiday. I would be planting them directly into 1 gal pots. I would appreciate any advise on such methodology in rooting where I do not have much experience. I know of 2 things  -- good drainage + humidity. I will either place plastic bag with breather holes(2) or make a plastic sheet tent to provide humidity & placed in part shade(morning sun 3hrs). Thanks.

Any other tips on growing figs in the tropics are appreciated too.

In 1 gal pots, I would stick 4-5 inside vertically with top node sticking out, also line the bottom of the pot with bark to keep water from flushing out the soil. I now root this way. 50% UPM 50% perlite. Keep it watered because this soil mixture drains almost to well.

I actually have also rooted using the "Turkish" method. Using 1 foot cuttings straight into soil in my orchard, cover with straw. Near 100% sucess. Our soil here drains very well.

Paully,

I would not expose them to any direct sun. Put them in shade or use shadecloth until well rooted. If you are wanting one plant/planter, I would not go more than 3 to a pot (unless you want to put your young cuttings through the trauma of separation after they root. All I use is MG potting mix with a little extra Perlite and water as needed. Got very good results. As you csn see, better than expected. lol...Good luck!

I did several different varieties this way directly in the garden with only top 1/2 inch of cutting exposed. I have had a great result in rooting. They are in direct sunlight with no watering or covering of any kind. (except for natural weeds)Sort of the way nature would do it. The leaves that have popped out have withstood 100 degrees without supplemental water.  They are doing better than the rooted cuttings I started in baggies and have in 1 gal pots on a drip watering system.  Seems nature does it the right way. I also used plain old garden soil nothing added. I have now put different cultivars in pots with plain old soil to root and sunk the pots up to the rim back in the garden. If you are not going to be there to fuss over the cuttings just fill your pots bury them and plunge the cuttings into the pots. I would plant one and a spare in each pot just in case one does not make it.

NE - I have to cover mine with straw. Our SW heat and very low humidity usually vaporizes anything. But, I agree if really good cuttings, 1-2 per pot. I have used plain old soil here, seems that I dont give figs enough credit for their robustness!

That SW weather-AZ NM southern NV and eastern TX at times will suck the moisture out you as well. I had cuttings I should have started this way. But those double ups look like they might be a pain to seperate the root masses.

But they are obviously working since I'm sure thats how they were propagated for 1000's of years.

I believe the tropics of Malaysia would have a very high humidity level and the cultivars if local varieties would thrive naturally. I have thought about using straw to cover the tops but they did fine without it seems most of the new growth emerged from under the ground. only a few broke leaves from above the soil line. Also the branches i buried whole about three feet long and two inches in circumference shot out new trees and they have large diameter shoots almost 1/2 inch in diameter. they look real healthy and almost indestructible. 

@NE

I have rooted logs also, this variety is Socorro Black:

I looked through this forum so much that LOG is still stuck in my mind!

How big is that now?

Paully,

I have a good "outdoor" rooting method for you..........

You can expect to get a very high rooting success by using equal parts (by volume) of "washed" all purpose "coarse" sand and plain old peat moss. The coarse all purpose sand is the type that is  sold at Lowe's and Home Depot. Look for the words "coarse" and "washed" on the bag of sand.  Mixing equal parts of coarse sand with peat moss produces an excellent rooting mix for "outdoor" rooting. Yes, Gorgi, I said the word EXCELLENT again. The pH of this mix is a little on the acid side (4 to 5 range) which helps it produce better rooting results. This mix will hold "just the right amount" of water and WILL DRAIN well enough under possible heavy rains.

Use 4 inch pots (or larger) to put your cuttings in with the rooting mix suggested above. Put those pots anywhere under some shade....like under a tree (what I do). You do not need to cover them at all. Just let them alone and water them (hose pipe is OK) if you see the mix getting too dry on the surface. Roots will emerge from the bottom of the pots when they are ready to transplant.

Besides being very simple and almost foolproof......the advantages to this method are: 1) no mold issues (because you produce no condensation in the "open rooting environment"), 2) requires minimal attention, 3) the leaves that develop will be partially harden off to sunlight, and 4), the roots that will develop will already be harden off to heavy watering.

I've seen old timers who root lots of the same variety of fig use a cut out 55 gallon plastic barrel for their outdoor rooting box. They fill it with equal parts sand and peat moss then plant their cuttings in the cut out drum in December. In the spring they separate their fig plants and their success rate is pretty darned good.

FYI.....This rooting season I wanted to document the success rate  using this method; but, I lost most of my stored cuttings (intended for trades and experiments) when my outside refrigerator tripped a breaker when lightning struck nearby. Two years ago I had OK success with plain old sand. However, adding peat moss is definitely the way to go. I have had real good success with that rooting mix after an old timer told me that was what he used.  


Dan
Semper Fi-cus.

THANKS GUYS. Very good info. and I sure look forward to some interesting varieties. Definitely like rooting without having to deal with molds & the high strikes. Yes, humidity is high in Malaysia and figs grow year round there. I have send my brother small 5" suckers and almost all will within the year produce their 1st crop. I hope I have a chance to try some there. Big problem there are birds.

Ya, can never forget LosLunas "log" rooting.

Paully,

The climate should be humid enough without tenting.  If you tent, you may have issues with too much moisture.  In Houston, I never tented a cutting/air layer. 

~james

Once again thanks for all advise. Very good points raised on direct rooting into pot under humid conditions without tenting. Average day time temp in my brother's place is at least 32*C/87*F . Night time temp. is around 26*C/79*F. Thanks for sharing the valueable experiences. Mean time I have bought a moisture meter and I believe this would help my brother to have better controls in watering. I will be there for 10 days and after that it will be left to him to follow-up. To sum up :

a. No problems using 1 gal pot. Preferably not more than 2 cuttings per pot
b. Placed cutting, ideally leaving one node above soil line
c. Good drainage vital. Washed coarse sand & peat moss 50:50 ratio
d. Shade -- like placed under tree.
e. No tenting required. Mold control.
f. Up-pot/plant in-ground when roots grows out from drain holes

Few questions:
a. Did you guys have cutting ends sealed with some sort of wax.
b. Was cutting with rooting end scratched to stimulate root growth zone
    or planted as is.
c. Fertilisation timing & when normally done after suspecting rooting took
   place/hold. I normally water first & an hour later, fertilize lightly.

Hope I did not miss any thing relevant.

Paully

a) no need to wax cuttings in that humid environment.
b) OK to plant as is. However, scratching will not hurt. The acidity of the rooting mix keeps things healthy around cuts and scratches.

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Did not wax mine. just took a wooden dowel made a hole and pushed cutting into dirt. I would not fertilize any new tree until it had new growth approx. 12 inches then only 1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer 30 minutes after normal watering.
 Good luck and enjoy your time with your family

If the cuttings were going to go straight in ground, then I would just put the mixture in the hole, stick the cuttings in and done!

Dan likes the sand and moss, I use UPM and perlite in 50/50 ratio. The potting mix holds up pretty good when transferring.

@NE   --  Thanks. I am sure going to have a good time with free food & accomodation and figs to play.

@LL  --  Unfortunately no cuttings going into ground. But good idea to have fertilizer mixed into dirt if planting directly to ground. Unfortunately no UPM available there & overhere. I would love to get UPM here. I have the following opportunities in tree form to consider like Smith, JH Adriatic, Paradiso Dusan, LSU Purple, LSU Tiger, LSU Hollier, LSU Gold, Conadria, Negronne, Sal's EL, Sequioa, Batalagia Green, Latarrula, St Anthony(dark), GM#1, Branco(Sue"s), Barbillone & Brooklyn Wht. to recommend my brother to grow in-ground.

@ Dan  --  never thought of acidity around rooting mix helps. Needs a chemist mindset like you. BTW Dan, do you have any your experience with some of the above named varieties in your zone(hot, humid & rainy) growing in-ground. If you do & if they are not good, I would appreciate the advise & would  not have them planted in-ground.

I know my brother & family love LSU Tiger and it is definitely going to be grown in-ground. It has been a WoW variety for their zone. Feedback on taste was sweet & unique flavor. He grew it from a cutting(only cutting he have rooted) last year and because figs grow year round, they harvested their 1st  LSU Tiger figs in February.

Thanks for all the thoughtful inputs and any other suggestions on varieties & grow techniques are welcome.

Paully

Paully, as an easy and if you have spare cuttings, experiment. Use what ever potting mix is avail and 50% perlite, to root. You may be surprised with the rooting results.

LL - I do have spare cuttings. Got about 40 plus cuttings there now via mail & will bring some along plus I can take cuttings from trees there. Will be trying options to show my brother.  He has only had one success in rooting directly into pot & that was LSU Tiger. I have been sending him small suckers for over about 2 seasons.

Thanks for the encouragement. I am excited about this trip -- the food, great company & figs. I think my brother may perhaps be the only lonely fignut there.  Got to help him to get others to be fignuts. He has given fresh figs to his friends to try and everyone loves them & have asked to have a tree. As is, he does not not have enough fresh figs for his family as they are all grown in pots. To have more productivity, he have to put them in-ground. Hence his preferences are priorities as well as getting the right variant that don't split & spoil easily. Certainly productivity would be a bonus.

Jose,

I have absolutely no doubt that UPM/perlite works real well outdoors (open) as it does with indoor (closed) rooting methods. UPM has a very high percentage of moss in the formula. That sand/moss rooting mix recipe is especially convenient for those who do not have access to UPM. Coarse sand does surprisingly well even when mixed to form potting soils. You will find sand in many local potting soil formulas. It is what many used before they came up with perlite to increase aeration of the mix or soil.

Paully, can't wait to start getting more reports from your brother. That sounds like a good beginning list. Watch for my future reports. Those figs that do well in my yard have a good chance of doing well in your brother's yard. 



Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Hi Paully,

This is a late post but how are the figs doing in Malaysia? I struck four cuttings 2 weeks ago directly into soil here in Singapore and all of them have rooted with 2 sending out shoots.

And yes, I know only one other "fignut" this close to the equator.