Celeste and some of the LSU varieties are supposed to have some nematode resistance.  I've read LSU Purple has some rust resistance.  Do you know of any others that have some resistance to these problems?

I found an old post where Ingevald had these listed as nematode resistant:  LSU Purple, Celeste, Zidi, Poulette, Masui Dauphine, ficus palmata, ficus racemosa (aka f. glomerata), ficus cocculifolia, ficus gnaphalocarpa. I haven't found much on rust resistance, but ficus pumila doesn't defoliate when grown outdoors in the rainy southeast, and pumila is known to cross with carica, so the genes for rust resistance are available.

I have Celeste and Alma cuttings, and I have several types of nematodes in my local Florida soil, so I can test them once they root.  Alma is supposed to be a palmata/carica hybrid.  I'm currently growing some tomatoes, which I know from experience will build up a large number of root knot nematodes in this soil.  I'll just use the tomato soil along with the chopped up tomato roots to repot some of my figs.  Luckily, RKN damage is easy to see on roots after a few months, so it's easy to select against.  It'll be a year or two before I can start crossing my little fig cuttings, but I'm looking forward to it.

Charles,

With nematodes mulch is your best friend.  The nematodes like hot dry organic deficient soil.  Mulch makes the soil cooler, more moist and adds organics.   The mulch does the trick for me.   Another trick is to plant the fig in a 5 gallon bucket with no bottom that is buried to within an inch of the rim.  The reasoning is because nematodes are in the top 18" of soil and most in the top foot the fig can get happy and it makes it send it's roots down deeper before it spreads out.  It puts all the fine feeder roots that the nematodes like out of reach.  I have never tried that though, the mulch has been 100% effective for me.  What I have learned though is there are several special of root nematodes. If you happen to get one of the very bad ones you are going to have problems.  

Deep mulch helps against RKN, as does planting next to a concrete slab that plants can hide their roots under, or just keeping plants in pots elevated off the ground.  Mulch breaks down faster when it's hot and rainy though, so people have to stay on top of it, and most people, like me, get distracted by life and lapse.  For a long term solution, I prefer hybridizing resistant varieties, so people in the future can just plant them without worrying about it.  I enjoy hybridizing anyway.

Pumila grows well in the shade, which may be useful, and there is also a variegated leaf pumila, which might look good on caricas, if it transfers. 

Even if you get say LSU purple it is resistant to SOME types of RKN.....it is not resistant to all RKN varieties.  

That's true.  That's why it's important to get several sources of resistance and mix them, then test the seedlings as best as we can. 

Granted, no plant is perfect, but we can use selective breeding to try to improve them for human uses.  Health, productivity, flavor, etc... It's kind of like why we don't pick an average random fig to plant in our yard, we pick the ones that taste the best, are the healthiest, most productive.  It's the same idea, just with an eye towards the next generation.

LSU Gold is resistant, vigorous and easily air layered to provide root stock to graft your desired varieties on to. 

Suzi

Thanks for the tip on LSU Gold. Grafting adds an extra step in propagation and, if done commercially, adds a bit of expense, but it may turn out to be the best answer for nematodes in the near term.  When my little resistant varieties have grown a bit, I'm sure I'll start grafting other varieties on to them for performance comparisons.