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Nematode cure for container grown figs - hot water technique

I am happy to report that I successfully killed root knot nematodes that had infested four plants.     Last repotting season I identified four infested container grown figs (nematodes came with soil from another location).   I did some research on our forums and other sources for remedies.    I settled on one that definitely worked.


    When I repot plants, I carefully removed the plants from their containers over a large tub to keep any infestation contained.   I check the roots throughly.    When I identified the infestation last season (early spring), I carefully shook off the soil in a garbage bag and trimmed up the roots and took off some material from the top end also.    I trimmed it so that the roots would easily fit in my large cooking pot.

   I set a large pot on the stove and maintained a temperature of 120 degrees F, making sure that it was at least 120.   It may have been a slight bit warmer.    I maintained those conditions for 20 minutes (One of my resources may have said 10 or 15 minutes was enough - I wanted to make sure).   The roots and just a bit of the stem was completely submerged.

   While not completely sure this would fix the problem, I did keep the plants in quarantine the entire season (in my greenhouse with a saucer underneath and watered it very carefully to avoid splashing eggs, etc)

   I carefully knocked the soil away from the roots today and noticed that there were no nodules anywhere amongst the mass of new roots. When a container fig is infested, nodules pretty much develop throughout the container.

   One side note - After doing the hot water dip, the two fig varieties involved were very late leafing out - about three or four weeks behind everything else.    I was concerned that I may have finished off the plant but it did show signs of life despite its reluctance to leaf out.

  Anyway, I thought that this might be a useful technique in case you discover such an unpleasant surprise when repotting.     Aside from this salvaging technique, you could also take a cutting or make an air layer of your plant while keeping it sequestered from other figs or outside conditions (anything causing material to splash out of the pot) that might allow the infestation to spread.

Ingevald

Congrats. Will know what to do in the future. That's the fun in figging. Thanks for letting us know how it works.

Paully22

Byron,

Glad to hear of your success.
It is our everlasting endeavor to find ways to rid our beloved figs of pests and diseases.


Sounds like an awesome concept, but in reading it, I'm reminded of one of my first epiphanies in chemistry class.

 

One thang that blew my mind in my first real chemistry course was discovering 'physical change' and 'chemical change'.  Our teacher posed the class with scenarios and openly asked whether the change was physical or chemical.  Example:  water turning to ice or boiling a potato.

 

Long and short:  If you can't reverse the change, it's probably a chemical change. 

 

So, in the case of water ... water freezes to ice, ice melts and becomes water.  Whether water changes to ice or ice changes to water, it is still H2O - it's a physical change (state change).

 

In the case of the potato, if you boil a potato, it's forever changed.  You can't go back to having a raw potato again - it's a chemical change.

 

The whole point to this ... A potato is a tuber, basically a root.  If you boil a potato for 20 minutes it turns fairly soft and mushy.  With that in mind, it sounds like this method is probably cooking the nematodes to the point of death, but you're also all but killing the roots, turning them into mashed potatoes, and you're basically re-rooting the cutting from scratch?

 

It seems like airlayering would be safer, with a higher success rate?

I appreciated your thoughts about the situation and I too was concerned that I had "overdone" it.     When examining the roots, they all generated from the roots that I had left on the plant - roots had not restarted from the stump of the stem.    Also, the roots were not physically close to being boiled since there is a big difference between 120 F and 212 F.  The feeling that they had been "boiled" did cross my mind.     The idea behind this of course was to find a temperature that did not kill the plant but was hot enough over a period of time to do the job.   I surely pushed it a bit...


   I gleaned suggestions from forum postings and read through some of the available papers that address heat treatment on the various RKN species.   Information from the papers I read supported the temperature and time approach and the original idea was seeded by a posting a few years ago on one of the forums.

  I suspect that the heat triggered some physiological change causing the delayed leafing out.  Anyway, that is what I did, why I did it and the results I observed.    I do agree that air layering is another good approach while keeping it isolated from other figs.

Ingevald

ah!  Fahrenheit.  i totally read 120 Celsius.  for some reason i thought you were one of our Canadian friends.  feel free to kick my ass if we ever meet up IRL.  ;)

No problem -   If that was Celsius, it would have certainly would have become a "mashed potato!"     In Celsius it would be around 49 deg.   Thanks for your reply.


Ingevald

120 C cooks whole potatoes in 6-8 minutes in my pressure cooker at 15 psi (with natural cooldown), I love it.

I remember reading about a similar treatment for banana pups but am not sure what the pest they were killing was. I think they actually did use boiling water and only dunked for like 15 seconds.

I tried this hot water method a couple of years ago. It was hot water straight from the tap and I didn't use a thermometer. We have our water heater cranked up to high all the time. I dipped the affected plant for 5 - 10 min. It was potted up and put in the greenhouse, this was in fall. In spring it never came out of dormancy. It sounds like it would have been good to use a thermometer! I've pretty much settled on doing airlayers to side step the nematodes but its good to know that under controlled conditions the hot water method works. Thanks for sharing!

Since we are considering a move to a different area with in-ground trees I'll admit the idea of having these nematodes in the soil makes me shudder.  I'm more of an expert wine grape grower than figs, but that cooking trick does well to eliminate some vine diseases, so it should work fine with figs!  Nice to know these remedies in case bad discoveries are found!  Thanks for posting.

I plan to use the jacuzzi should this ever happen!  Should make the pool guy happy....  I can see him shaking his head.  He already thinks I'm crazy, and if I do this, that concept will be in concrete! :-)) 

Suzi

My husband uses a similar method to kill chestnut weevil larvae in the nuts from our chestnut tree.  It takes 20 minutes in 120F water.  It totally eliminates the worms, but the heat doesn't kill or change chestnut embryo.  The nuts taste exactly the same, too, as they would without the heat treatment.  

According to the American Chestnut Foundation, "If the temperature is too low (less than 117'F), the weevil will not be killed.  Too hot, and you kill the embryo and, thus, the seed."  I'll bet you have to maintain a pretty tight control of temperature with fig roots, too.  I'd invest in an accurate thermometer. ;)   

Mimi

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