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Nematodes

Hello!

In my courtyard grow everywere fig seedlings. I have left to grow some, and last month i uprooted them for transplanting in my orchard for grafting good varieties or for caprification.
I found a seedling with many tubercles, that i have immediately eliminated.
The other seedlings were healty, so i didn't worry. I've put them in a jar, awaiting transplantation.
In this jar, water stagnated, but seedlings don't seem to suffer.
Today i removed these plants from the jar, and i immediately saw that that there were many white microscopic "bugs", and some tubercles on the roots.
I wonder what causes this disease. How appens the contagion?
I read that happens in dry soils, but in this case soil was drenched!
Also in this case i destroyed all, seedlings and soil. I'm afraid for my plants.
W
hat are the sources of infection? There are things to do to prevent them?
Foto0027.jpg 


  • mic

I had an outbreak of RKN in my pots. I think the source in that case was an infected batch of compost. So moving infected soil around will spread them. I have also read that ants can spread them.

Nematodes are microscopic insects that live in the root system. They intercept the water and nutrients the plant takes up. The plant growth and health suffers as a result. I'm not sure if you would be able to see them without a microscope.

Nematicides are not available to home gardeners in Australia. So alternative methods are needed. I have read (and tried) many methods to try to get rid of them. Not with much success. I ended up destroying the infested plants after air layering.

Mustard powder is said to deter them. Molasses soil drench. The roots of certain plants like marigolds and mustard leaf.

Search this forum for more information and other peoples experiences.

Here are my notes from when I was trying to deal with them:

DOOR in Australian Wildflowers & Native Plants

https://rirdc.infoservices.com.au/downloads/00-103

"Hard wood sawdust was mixed with urea (4kg/cubic metre) on a plastic sheet, wetted and compostedfor three weeks."

"Composted sawdust was applied to trial plots (15L/m2) of and either incorporated into the surface soil with a garden fork or spread as a surface mulch. Each plot was 4.2m X 0.60m"

"Result: 15-40% reduction on surface. No reduction when incorporated."

Ideas: Using well rotted chook manure as inoculum, also finding ideal amounts/rates and frequency.

... "mixed hardwood sawdust with urea at the rate of 60gm urea per 15 litres of sawdust. We used a cement mixer and piled the mix on a large plastic sheet. The final heap was hosed and then the plastic folded over the top. The sawdust heated up and turned a dark
colour as well as smelling strongly of ammonia. A black smelly liquid seeped from the bottom of the heap. After 3 weeks or so, the heap was opened and after a couple of days to disperse the ammonia, the treated sawdust was applied to the relevant trial plots at 15 litres per square metre."

Organic and Inorganic Nitrogen Amendments to Soil as Nematode Suppressants

R. Rodriguez K.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2618534/pdf/129.pdf

"Urea is a good nematicide when applied at levels in excess of 300 kg N/kg soil (22,52). Such high rates of urea result in significant accumulations of nitrate and ammoniacal N in soil and phytotoxicity (22). The phytotoxic effects of urea are due to the narrow C:N ratio of urea; there is insufficient available carbon in soil treated with nematicidal rates of urea alone to permit microbial utilization of all the available nitrogen. These detrimental accumulations of ammonia and nitrate can be overcome by supplementing urea amendments with additional available carbon."

... "combinations of blackstrap molasses plus urea (52) or of hemicellulosic paper waste plus urea (22) are not phytotoxic and are as nematicidal as additions of urea alone."

"As with urea, these amendments can be phytotoxic if sufficient carbon is not available to support metabolism of the added nitrogen."

"All three materials were effective in suppressing the nematode; however, the oil cakes (C:N ratios of 7) were phytotoxic, whereas the chicken litter (C:N = 10) was not."

Alternatives to nematicides in fruit and vegetable crops

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5406.html

Control of root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne javanica) on tomato with molasses and other organic amendments

http://www.publish.csiro.au/paper/AP97029.htm

"molasses (10 g molasses/L water) was drenched regularly onto field soils infested with root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne javanica), both root galling and nematode reproduction were reduced."

"the suppressive effects of sawdust (150 m 3/ha) plus urea (600 kg/ha), filter press (400 m 3 /ha), molasses (375 L/ha/week for 14 weeks), a velvet bean green manure crop and the nematicide fenamiphos (10 kg a.i./ha) were compared. Untreated plants were heavily galled but all organic treatments except the green manure crop reduced root galling and all except the green manure crop and molasses reduced root-knot nematode populations in soil. Sawdust-amended soil was almost free of galls and had the lowest populations of root-knot nematode."

???

[source unknown]
Molasses has been extensively trialed and found to be a very effective deterrent. Simply dissolve 1 litre of molasses in 4 litres of warm water, allow it to cool and use it to drench the soil.

???

[source unknown]
Bare root transplants: can have their roots dipped in hot water (46C) for 16 minutes. Always treat the soil around planting holes where the plants have been hot dipped .

Nematicides (Chemical)

Dazitol is an organic? pesticide that is mustard and pepper based.
Dazomet (Basamid) granular seedbed treatment. Releases methyl isocyanate gas to kill.
Fenamiphos (Nemacur) granular formula
Oxamyl (Vydate) liquid formulation

Thanks for the info Mic, very interesting.

Maybe the bugs that i've seen on the roots are mealybugs, not nematodes.

Fico. How,do you have fig seedlings? May be a dumb question. But ate they reproducing by seed. Which area do you live? Seedlings would be pretty cool.

  • mic
  • · Edited

No worries Fico. Actually, I did a quick search, and there are a lot of information on this forum about the nematodes. Also hydrogen peroxide might be a possible help

http://www.plantprotection.pl/PDF/48%282%29/JPPR_48%282%29_05_Karajeh.pdf

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/search?searchid=37453089

Meally bugs aren't usually found on the roots.

If you have galls on the roots then it is likely to be RKN. Your picture doesn't show enough detail to see if they look typical. In my experience they look like little balls along the root. I've not seen them look like long tubers. Do you see any other symptoms? Is the plant growth stunted?

The little insects you are seeing may be unrelated.

Hi fico,
If the seedlings were in ground, then this insects are already in the dirt ... natively .
So I don't see the point in destroying your small trees.
During winter, lots of insects will overwinter at the base of trees or near their roots.
That is the reason why the damn moles go foraging at the feet of our trees.

First, try to identify exactly what you have. Do you have better pics ? I cant' see anything in that small one .
I would be really surprise that in your region you are having rkn .

Spray insect killer. Malathyone works grate and doesn't hurt plants

Thanks Mic, i will read it with pleasure.

Figpig, seedlings grow because the birds (and even me!) scatter the seeds; several seedlings proved caprifigs, so do not think i can get something interesting to seedings.
In the countryside there are also many figs of the common type, but they have small fruit, with bad taste in most cases. G
et a good fig tree from seed is very difficult.
I live in Sardinia, Italy.

Jdsfrance,
in the picture is not seen, but some of these seedlings had nematode tubercles.
A month ago they didn't have, only one plant that i have eliminated, had many tubercles.
Maybe the diseased plant
has infected other.

I'm sorry to kill these plants, but in fact there aren't really useful, i'm interested in protecting good figs, and i'm afraid that these seedlings are source of infection.


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