Hey y'all. I live in north east Texas about 50 miles east of Dallas. Zone 8. Gets about 100º-105º for a high in late summer and down in the 20's sometimes in Feburary.  \
I planted 5 fig trees about 4 years ago. The first year, they all survived, the second year, 2 died. The third year and fourth year the 3 living trees didn't grow at all. This year, 2 of the 3 survivors dried up and were leafless, so I broke them off at ground level. A friend recommended I dig a trench about 2 feet away from the trunk, in a circle around the trunk, add some dried cow manure and water it occasionally. (The parable of the fig tree  in Matt 24 immediately came to mind !!!)  Well, I did. 2 weeks after doing this, more leaves than this tree has ever had, came out. Also one of the ones I broke off flush with the ground sprouted up with 5 new trunks (I then did the ditch thing with it also.) The biggest new trunk is about a foot tall and all 5 trunks have leaves. But the one that didn't die and produced a huge amount of leaves just totally freaked me out. After 2 weeks of the water-the-ditch thing, I saw a new trunk coming out  !!! It has been right at 4 months now, since I did the ditch thing and the new trunk is now 4 foot tall. Yes, you heard me right !!!!! (same size as the original plating) Wow, if I would have known to do this ditch thing 4 years ago, I would still have 5 HUGE fig trees.
Ok, so the tree that is the biggest of the 2 is a Kodota, the new sprouted tree is a Texas Everbearing.

I have a few questions that I know y'all can answer for me.

1) I want to plant atleast 4 more fig trees, thinking about the Black Maderia  and Black Jack varities

2) When should I order them and when should I plant them in my little orchard?

3) As for the 2 I have, what do I need to do to prep them for the winter? It doesn't get real cold here and I did nothing in the last 4 years but maybe that's why I ain't getting much growth as I should be.

4) what is the best fertilizer for my fig trees and when and how much is needed?

5) When should I stop watering them? My soil is sandy loam and drains I think too fast (I can put about 10 gallons of water in the ditch and it will be soaked up within 2 hours

6) when and HOW do I need to prune the trees for best growth?

Y'all are the pros, I'm trying to become a fig'r !!!!!

You should pair up with some of your homelanders (TX, LA) area... they are pro at growing figs there.  Young trees no matter where you are, need to have a easy transition from pots to the ground, and also lots of mulching, if your area is very hot, mulching helps keep the moisture where it is needed.  They need water, yes, but mostly when they are young, once established, they need some, but not as much.  We often kill them by overwatering.   Texas should make you delicious figs.  Good luck with you new venture.  It is fun, you will find out.

Hi Mutt,
Welcome on board !
Now is a good time for planting trees, but potted trees can be planted at any time as long as the dirt is not an ice cube .
I have a post on winter protections just use the search function of the forum .
As for fertilizer, a general 10/10/10 fertilizer works well. A closed hand every two or four weeks .
In ground, you can stop watering the trees when they slow down so that is when the leaves do yellow .
You can pruning whenever you want - Just be aware that you'll be loosing the figs from those branches.
Pruning for me, is more to shape the tree - and I shape when my eyes see something that disturbs me ... But generally not while dormant or before going dormant :) - but that's my way .
Fig trees need water . How is your watering schedule ?

Welcome to the forum.

I sent you an email.

So because of my dirt type, I really need to mulch these 2 trees I have. I water basically every day in the spring and summer and fall. LOTS of water. The ground just soaks it up. But they grow good. If I stop watering, they stop growing.  If I mulch them, maybe it will help hold in some moisture. How do I go about mulching them? I have lots of free mulch about 2 years old, left by the folks that trim trees away from the power lines.Did I stay away from the trunk with the mulch? How far away? The bigger of the 2 trees has 3 figs on it STILL. They have been on there for 4 months now.Green and hard as a brick. Wonder why? 

Mutt. Pile on the mulch, the thicker the better. I use rolls of hay and let it rot. I put 8" of power line mulch in one greenhouse and then planted in it. You can't get too much. Do you get the idea I like mulch. I just got 59 more roll of hay for mulch, yea I like it. The only problem I have is Chinese Tallow seed in the power line mulch but I can keep them pulled out. The seed can last for 10 years before germinating and every sprig of root left will grow a nother tree. Oh yea welcome to the forum.

I have lots of hay. Can ya post a picture of how I should apply the mulch?

fair warning about hay. In the south Bermuda is a common hay and the last thing you want is bermuda choking out your young fig tree. wood chips work but attract thing like termites, rolly pollies and other bugs.  pine needles are good if they are cheap in your area but also harbor pest like mice, snakes, and roaches. If rainfall is an issue in your area you'll not only need a layer of mulch you'll also need to improve the water holding capability of your soil by incorporating plenty of organic matter like compost, manure, and maybe a little peat to your planting hole. for optimum growth when planting your new trees plant in late winter / early spring and dig the hole 3 times wider than the rootball and a little deeper then the pot. thoroughly mix your soil with the amendments, add a little lime, plant your tree, and water it in really good.  Top dress with an organic fertilizer or some Osmocote if not growing organic :( and add your favorite layer of mulch leaving about an inch away from the base of the tree for wood and against the base with airy materials. if your wood much is at least 4 inches deep or pine/straw/hay mulch is at least 8 inches deep and your soil is properly amended you should be fine with watering deeply just once a week in spring maybe twice a week in summer and once every 2 or 3 weeks in fall once it cools down to 60's and 70's. Give or take a few waterings per season. watering every days leeds to roots that are shallow and thus even more prone to drought. forcing the plant to seek out water helps build a stronger plant with deeper roots but you have to find the perfect balance for watering in your area.    

I agree with the mulching but you have to water when the leaves get droopy.  A first year tree in sandy soil may need water more than 1x/day with temps over 95.  Water more when young and less as the tree gets older.  If you buy or have earthworms they'll help build the soil faster.  It will take years for the soil to hold water well.  I plant trees in early spring but for you that may be the end of Feb.  When the night time lows stay above freezing is a good time to plant a dormant tree.  If it has leaves I'd wait until lows stay above 45.