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New to the forum with a question

Im new to the forum and new to fig growing.

 

Im in NJ(Zone 6A)  After spending way too much time researching which figs to start with I purcharsed 3 Hardy chicago figs. I planted them in Miracle grow potting soil in 5 gallon pots and mulched the top.

 

Of the 3, 1 has developed 3 figs, the other 2 are growing like crazy but not producing figs

 

my eventual goal is to overwinter them outside, but that wont be until 2014.

 

So, a few questions:

 

1: Should I worry that only 1 is producing figs? Is it normal for first year figs to be fig-less?

 

2: Should I let them grow unchecked this year? They are only about a foot high or should I already start pinching?

 

3:  Should I remove the 3 figs that the one tree is producing or let it produce?

 

4: Im assuming that the roots wont fill a 5 gallon pot, but should I worry about potting them up or leave them be for the next 2 seasons, since they are going in the ground after that?

 

THANK YOU!

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  • BLB

I think you should be ok leaving the figs on your tree provided it doesn't produce more than just a very few. Yes it is pretty normal for young trees to take a year or 2 to produce figs, some take even longer depending on the variety. I would let them just grow for the first year, unless they are growing some wierd angled branch. Oh the roots will fill your 5 gal pots before you know it. If you don't get around to up potting they will survive for a couple years ok even if they don't like it, but of course the larger the pot the bigger the tree.

Thanks for the response!

 

Im hoping to bush them instead of letting them form a tree.

 

1 of them has a off-shoot about at the soil line that makes it look like a saguaro cactus, but it's a healthy branch. Thatd be the only "Weird" branch ive got

Guess I agree with BLB.  Here are a few related comments:

1. (worry about not producing figs?) -- I wouldn't worry about trees not producing fruit in the first year.  They need to grow.  Any energy they put into making figs takes energy away from growing.
2. (let them grow?) -- I'd let them grow unchecked.  But pinch a stem if you want to force branching.  (Just don't pinch it too early... it needs to grow).  Early on (first few years) is a good time to be thinking about the shape you want for the tree.  But again, they need to get some size... I'd let 'em grow.  You can prune next year if you've got a weird shape.
3. (remove the figs this year?) -- Some members say remove them all, some say you don't need to if it's just a couple of figs (or to take off all but a couple).  I guess I don't, but it depends on how well the tree is growing... if it's stunted, then remove some (or all).  Also, if you eat one of those figs, be aware that the taste of the fig will change (generally improve) as the tree matures.
4. Up to you I guess... I'd probably leave them in gallons this year, and up-pot them in the spring (or else when they are fully dormant in the winter).  One additional consideration is where you'll overwinter them in the first year... you'll want it to be cool enough to let the tree stay dormant, but not so cold that they die back from a hard freeze.  (A young tree is more susceptible to die-back than a mature tree with more established roots, so you'll want some protection this year).  The point I was leading up to:  a bigger pot / more soil generally speaking provides more protection than a smaller pot / less soil, at least if those really cold spells in 6a are of short duration.  The bigger soil mass is a bigger heat sink, so the temperature around the roots won't vary quite as quickly.  So, where are you keeping them for the winter?  A cool-but-heated garage or basement?  Or a shed / unheated garage, where the winter temps are just like outside?  For me, I'd up-pot them when dormant (multiple benefits, including helping the trees to mature more fully as you await their move to in-ground).

Just my 2 cents.  Good luck with your new trees!

Mike    central NY state, zone 5

Let them grow, and prune to desired height at which you want branching before they break dormancy next season. More top growth will lead to more root development this season.

slingha.....

Welcome to this forum.  You will be guided every step of the way with information and even better, wisdom gained by experience.  This forum is a "living textbook" and guide, to growing figs.  All you have to do is just ask, and a new chapter will be written.

Enjoy growing these dynamic trees.  Must often these fig trees are very forgiving, and if given half the chance, self-correcting.  Many problems arise because of over-fertilizing, over-watering, and growing these trees too "soft", fast, and pampered.  It's called...bad culture.

In Zone 6a, you will quickly learn that you will worry less about GROWING your trees, and more about what you need to do to keep them alive from year to year without damage or death.  This overwintering dilemma is a problem we all face who grow in cooler areas.  Think ahead, and search this forum for differing methods for overwintering you figs, either in-ground, or containerized.  Then figure out, according to you circumstances, what strategy you will follow.

Have a great growing season.

Frank

There are helpful responses. In regards to overwintering I have 4 options:

 

1:An uninsulated attached garage with a fair amount of windows(5)

2:An old basement with 1 small window that contains the heating system.

3:A new basement with super high ceilings that is separate from the old basement.

4:A shed

 

Also, ive read something about putting lime around the roots of the figs? Should I do that?

 

 

I should also give you guys a little background about me.  My wife and I recently moved from a 50x150ft piece of property(that included the house) to our brand new home on 2 acres. My wife loves the house, and I love the property(a win-win)


I am trying to plant things that produce food as well as look great. My blueberries are going great, except for the bird action(bird netting installed yesterday). Ive just planted 10 apple trees and 5 PAW PAW trees.

 

The figs are my latest addition.  The figs for me rate a very close second to the paw paw.

slingha:

You will want to try to keep your fig trees, especially the root zones if in containers around the low to mid 40 degrees F, and to extend dormancy until outside weather conditions can support new, succulent, Spring growth.  If the fig trees awaken from dormancy too soon, and push new growth, that growth may be damaged by late frosts, or weather (nights) that are too cold.  New growth dies back.

Unheated storage sheds work, the uninsulated attached garage might also be a possibility, if it gets very cool.  Forget the basements...too warm.  Think cool, dark.  If there is some way to block out light, even if its only near the fig-storage area...even better.  Maybe a sheet of burlap over the trees to exclude light.

Congratulations with your new home.  On two acres you will grow many great things to eat.  Your own Garden-of-Eden...without the tempting snake.  : )

Hope this helps you decide.  By the way...you will be buying more fig trees.  I only buy fruiting-size trees, if I can.  Less waiting, less nail-biting, and hoping...better survival curve than small delicate, rooted-cuttings (twigs with roots)...instant success! .... The Slinghas eat figs in August-September.

Good luck.

Frank


PS....Check out the Tallahassee Fig Orchard video on this forum.  It was just posted recently.  Maybe you'll get some ideas on how to utilize your growing area for the maximum yield.  Also check out a web-site called :  Bill's Figs...check out the containerized growing methods that this fig-grower uses to maximum effect.  You have many options.  One additional thought.  Look for sites that show the intensive training methods the the Japanese use to train their fig trees for quality fruit and production.  It's sort of a modified espalier method of training, and pruning.

Just added 2 Celeste to the "orchard". I think I may be done.  Between the apples, the paw paw and the figs, I may be running out of room

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  • BLB

LOL, you are far from done, just keep reading the forum and learn of all he must have varieties, next thing you know you'll be loaded with figs

And, in addition to figs, there are plenty of other fruits you can grow in the ground! http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fruit/msg012231351070.html

@BLB....Adding more figs then subtracting a wife!

 

@TusconKen - Awesome post and super relevant for me...THANKS

slingha....

Two acres of land, and you think you are finished with getting new fig trees?  Please let us know one year from today, what you are growing.  You're a fig zombie, like us, and you don;t even know it yet!

Hey guys, get this...he's finished with the fig buying!  What a hoot!

Frank

Well if i read right you have 5 total fig trees  - 3 hardy chicago and 2 celeste.
Just saying keep 1 of your best of each then you have 2 fig trees the other HC and Celeste trade them for other dark types so you have a variety of different tasting figs to enjoy.
If i do my math correct once you make trade you then have room for about 20 + more different tasting dark types to enjoy.
Then when they produce if you dont like trade them for even more dark types to try.
Simple math.  ; )

PS i never made it out of HS so if my figures are off i take no responsibility.

My end game is to eventually have figs in the ground unprotected over-winter (zone 6).

 

The only 2 im aware of that can possibly do this are Celeste and Hardy Chicago. that being said, im not looking to add any that cant make it on their own during a NJ winter

I like that goal of unprotected over-wintering, though it's a bit more of a challenge for me (I'm in zone 5).  I've been burying fig trees for the winter for too long.  And I'm now using containers too, partly to be able to sample more varieties (and partly it's fun, and partly because I'm nuts :-).  But I still share that goal of in-ground without protection (other than a smart planting location, e.g. against a southern wall with a wind block to the west).  From what I've been reading on here, Marseilles VS Black may be another possibility.


Mike    central NY state, zone 5

p.s.  you may want to do some searches among the topics on this forum... there's tons of useful information here, including lots of peoples' experiences with cold hardiness.

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  • BLB

Marseilles VS is definitely one to consider as is Sal's Corleone, Latorolla, Gino's, and a few more.

I thought hardy Chicago = sals corleone?

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  • BLB

No Not a chance, Hardy Chicago is similar to a couple other figs, not remembering their names at the moment, but Sal's Corleone is very different. There are other Sal's too, I think someone else compared HC to one of those.

One of the ones that Hardy Chicago is similar to is Bensonhurst Purple.  Some people think they're the same... others say no.  (I'm one of those who say no... I have one of each, and they seem different to me).  Supposedly they're both from the flanks of Mt. Etna (at least according to anecdotal stories, maybe more established as so for HC). 


Also, Michael from Edible Landscaping has said that what he thought was Sal's EL (aka Sal's Gene) turned out to be Hardy Chicago.  Again, I think there are others who disagree with this, but at least it makes me wonder whether Sal's EL / Sal's Gene is similar (or maybe "genetically close") to HC.  Seeing as the "EL" stands for Edible Landscaping, it at least opens some questions from my perspective.  (I haven't checked the genetic analysis that UCD did to see whether they tested both of those cultivars).

By the way, Sal's Corleone is one that's on my "wish list" too.  :-)

Mike     central NY state, zone 5

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