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Normal for potted trees to stop growing leaves to make figs?

I have a Gino Black that is a couple years old, given to me by a generous member this past winter.  It started growing vigorously, but in the past 3 weeks or so, I haven't seen any new leaves.  It IS producing main crop figs though.  Leaves are looking kind of yellowish lately too.  Is it normal for a tree like this to stop making leaves to produce fruit?

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green stuff slows down as the plant puts more energy into growing the figs. normal.

Thank you for asking the question Frank, same thing is happening to one of my trees and I couldn't articulate a question tonight for some reason :) Old age perhaps?

Yellowing leaves can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. That can also explain the slow down of growth.  

It's really hard to know.  Nitrogen and iron deficiencies can do this.  I had a few like this (First and second year cuttings that have not put on figs) and putting them in afternoon shade cured them after iron and nitrogen failed.

I'm having the same issue with young trees from cuttings. Seems like they can't handle the heat,I have moved them to the shade. It's 95 here in houston that's a hot pot in full Sun.

Thanks for the replies.  I have close to 90 first-year cuttings in 1 gallon pots that are very slow growing and yellowing as well.  I'm using a 5:1:1 mix (pine bark fines/perlite/sp peat moss)  They get about 6 hours of full sun.  A few days ago I sprinkled some dolomitic lime and used a very light solution of Miracle Gro to see if that helps.  I was thinking they were getting too much water since we had a rainy period, but I'm wondering if they're getting too much sun.  Thanks for any help!

Frank,
In answer to your question, in my observations, no, not normal.
Note attached pictures of figs swelling and buds breaking.
[image]

Did you use dolemite limestone in the potting mix? What's your fertilizing routine? It may be a nutrient deficiency. BTW, I also use the 5-1-1 mix, and all the plants are in full sun 8am - 6 pm.
I usually add 1 cup of pulverized Limestone per 5 gallon of mix. I fertilize at 1/2 cup of general purpose fertilizer with micro-nutrients (Espoma Garden-tone) per month / 5 gallon of mix, and 1 tablespoon of Miracle grow /  gallon of water weekly. I also sprinkle 1/2 cup Granular Dolemite Limestone per month on top of 5 gallon containers.

You can also use the MG fertilizer as a foliar spray @ 1 teaspoon / gallon of water. It usually perks up (greens up) the leaves within days.

<edit> My first question or comment is usually about the roots. Is it root bound? I find that either being root bound or having damaged roots is one of the main causes of many problems.

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Pete,

No, I added the pellets on top of the soil and watered them in with MG.  The leaves all look healthy and perky.  They are just light green/yellow.  Anything else come to mind?  Thanks for the tips!

By The contrary:Gino's Black have the darkest leaves I ever seen on a fig tree,almost blue green.
Positively there is something wrong ,with the growing conditions,like light,nutrients water drainage.
If you find the problem the color will change.

Frank yes.

I never had good results with what you have your plant in.
Decent store bought potting mix should fix your problem but its not a good time of year to change out.

You will have very good results with store bought potting mix.
Pro-Mix HP comes in 3 foot bale , UPM -ultimate potting mix, Miracle grow potting mix , shultz potting mix all of them work well this i know and have shown my plants in pictures .

Thanks guys.

Martin...I believe you're right.  I had a feeling it was my soil mix.  It's too ironic that they're all looking pale so it makes sense.  I'll definitely change my mix this winter.

Frank, I have the same issue with that mix. Sp Peat Moss/Pine nuggets/Perlite/w/lime added. The leaves are very light in color.
The majority of my plants are in Fox Farm Ocean Forest and they are doing great. No lime.

I have some small trees quart size pots in the greenhouse. Some have yellowing leaves and some deep green. I find when I water with a super thrive mix at 1 teaspoon per gal of water the yellow ones green up. Super thrive is nutriants and vit B If I'm not mistaken. Some folks like it some don't. I have seen shocked plants get over shock a lot quicker with a shot of the stuff so I like it.

There are times the temps reach 130 in the greenhouse so I have a small misting system to help keep them cool and the leaves hydrated.

Nice looking tree pete. What kind.

IMO the problem is not necessarily the mix, but the amendments and fertilizer that are added to the mix. If you use the recommended Pine bark mulch/Perlite/Peat moss without balanced fertilizer and micronutrients, the results will always be poor. Most of the other recommended potting mixes have fertilizers and micro nutrients added to the mix and are PH balanced (usually with limestone). BTW figs also need a good amount of Calcium to be productive (Figs are high in calcium content), which is why limestone or other source of calcium is important (Fox Farm has crab meal).

Dave,... If you move your cursor over the thumbnail pictures the names will be displayed.

Thanks everyone. 
Pete...I had no idea how important the fertilizer and nutrients were for this mix.  They're definitely not root bound.  I really appreciate the advice!

i have been use modified 5:1:1 for awhile. weekly fertilizer, and dolomite lime top dressed every 3 months or so. the older trees are not as badly affected, but this yr with so much rain and humidity, the leaves are growing thin and broad. colors are not right either. i've been reading on the problem due to my plants and what i'm finding is that when there is lot of rain, high humidity and not enough light it can cause issues with leaves.

Pete,
Miracle grow is water soluble, it will wash out of the mix if there is a lot of rain. That's why the micronutrients and balanced solid fertlizer is important. The 5-1-1 is sterile for the most part with few nutrients. If the nutrients are not replaced, the plants will do poorly.

BTW I modified my mix and added 1 part "Safe t Sorb" from Tractor Supply. Its Fullers Earth similar to Turface. It allows the mix to hold more moisture and air.

pete (too many petes hear.. lol)

actually it's more like 2.5:2.5:1:1. one of the 2.5 is compost. but i understand what you are saying. at the start of the spring, i also add slow release fertilizer on top so during the early growing season, the soluble fertilizer along with slow release will provide enough fertilizer to push spring growth. by mid july i cut off fertilizer anyway.

i have been thinking alternative fertilizer than what i have been using.. all that mixing is getting to be a pain. any suggestion?

Pete, (you can never have too many Pete's : )

I use purchased fertilizer (Miracle Grow and Esopma) mainly on potted plants and Espoma only in spring on in ground plants to boost the beneficial bacteria and fungi (mycorrhizae). Miracle Grow is used mainly to push growth in seedlings and young plants. The rest of the year its "cut and drop", cover crops or compost. I've top dressed with rabbit manure, with good results. I never use slow release fertilizer, because it has to be mixed into the soil to be completely effective (break down), and that would damage the surface feeder roots.

From my limited experience with figs, the method for fertilization that I will be using in the future (on established plants) will be to top dress with 2-3 inches of compost. It will be renewed regularly when necessary. From observations a lot of feeder roots develop at the surface of my 5 gallon buckets, just below the surface "bark mulch", they multiply within the top dressing of Espoma, Limestone and potting mix.

BTW the Espoma or any balanced fertilizer and micronutrients with Dolemite Limestone would work fine on established trees without any additional amendments.

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