I posted earlier on my problem, still need advice please. see pictures below. i am devastated. 


Based on research on this forum, it can be one of a few issues:

A. too much water (i water once a week) in SoCAL south facing sun all day

B. too little water (i water once a week) in SoCAL south facing sun all day

C. root bound since its happening mostly to my 2 year old plans,not my younger plants

D plastic brown pots are heating the roots, need reflectors around pots or shadier area

E Need fertilizer. last fertilized in April.



 
 

 

 

 

 

Any plant that's spent over a year in it's container need's to be watered once a day this time of year.Pouring gallons of water once a week into a root bound plant doesn't work,better a gallon a day.I've several that are looking similar,should have root pruned them early this year.Try placing the pots in a tray with 1" of standing water.

You may try moving one or two to a less sunny location, to see if they are getting too much sun. Here in Phoenix, I've had plants in full sun that turned all the leaves brown. Moving that plant has made a big difference. I lightly water twice a day and deep water twice a week.

You need to water more frequently- 2-3 times a week minimum, and you many need to water more for a time or two to get you entire rootball wet. Water into the pot does  not equal water staying in the soil.

Second, a 2-3 weeks ago we had 100+ temps with less than 10% humidity. That is a huge stress on a potted plant. More so on a south facing potted plant, and even more if it is mostly surrounded by hardscape. Very hard to get water in as fast as it is going out, in that situation. Leaf drop is a natural defense in that situation.

Dan, thank you for the post. I used kelloggs organic fruit tree fertilizer , every 2 or so months.

Shailesh, Paul, figfanatic, Dan, Jon, thanks for taking the time to respond. i will take all your advice and start by "finding" the time to water more frequently. Maybe I can set up a drop system or wickering system to help with the resource limitations on my end. I now have a lot of my figs bare naked on the branches, fully undressed and vulnerable. i hope they will survive in the next month for me to sample? the main impacts were to my hmari (israel), sbayi (israel), rob's GN, and khadari (israel)

Don't let it get into the red on a moisture meter if you are having trouble figuring out the correct moisture by doing the soil or lifting the pot. Should be able to find one locally at Walmart or any nursery or order online.

https://jet.com/product/Flexrake-Moisture-Meter/d7ab63e62ae14543ad90dbc6a5f3edcb

Nick hi,

From the pictures it shows you are not mulching? In hot so - cal weather its a must.
It will make the water spread better and help conserve water.

Other than that some of my trees show the same issues...
Do you have a duplicate? Some varieties have certain leaf growth cycle.

In our weather nick shade net is the best i guess.

Hi,
Those remind me of some of my trees after my holidays two years ago ... No one watered them during 2 weeks ... 40°C / 104°C at daytime and 25°C/77°F at night.
Some leaves turned yellow, lots fell of.

Question: Did the roots escape the pots into the dirt ? If you see a tree that doesn't have the problem, look if the roots escaped the pot.
I have one tree in a small pot that is just as lush as one can dream... Just don't try to move it to the left or to the right... you can't !

If roots haven't escaped, use plates under the pots or big buckets. Those would be used as water reservoirs .
If you see that the water keeps on getting used fast, then you'll be sure that they need/needed more water.
If the water remains in the reservoir, then the source of the problem is elsewhere.
Leaving water in the reservoir will give the dirt in the pot more time to absorb it, or else the water just runs off .

I'm amazed the plants are still alive watering once a week in summer in LA. Those are big plants in little pots, therefore you need to water once a day. Put a saucer under each pot. That will save water and assure that the rootball doesn't become so dry that the water just runs right thru. If you use saucers you might get by watering every two days.

It is impossible to over water a potted fig that size as long as there are drip holes in the bottom of the pot.
Here in Albuquerque, NM, our temps are 90-100 (+) degrees.
I have my potted figs on one gallon drip emitters and water three times per day at 10 minutes each watering. My schedule is 5am-11am-5pm.
They are healthy and green. The pots are continuously moist and never allowed to dry out. Trees that are stressed out will drop leaves and fruit.

As far as fertilizer is concerned, give your trees some Miracle Gro. It is safe and will not burn your roots.

I put water catch trays under pots. Problem solved.

I have the same problem on some in-ground trees.  Also some potted ones that are in mostly shade.  It has to be the heat and lack of water. 

Also, dark pots are likely to fry the roots in the hot sun.  I would wrap those pots in foil. 

I know you have water restrictions due to the drought.  Same here, but our county allows us to water 3 x per week for one hour between 4-7 AM.  Everything is on automatic drip.  We monitor the emitters for clogs.

I use trays under my potted figs. Two really should have been reported last year but i was busy rooting cuttings & never got around to doing it. Early this year I topped the pot with new soil then mulch. Also, fertilize but very carefully so as to not burn roots. Good luck!

thanks all for the latest replies. really appreciate it. i am still a novice on potted figs.  i watered once a week through my first ever growing year (last year) and thought it would work on the 2 year older plants this year. lessons learned -- not gonna happen.  i am watering daily now and i have mulched just today. i am planning to buy water trays/saucers/reservoirs this week as well.

jds, i already have flag stones under each planter individually, so no roots coming through to the ground. i do plan to replace those flag stones with trays/saucers/reservoirs.

Put it on a drip system. Looks like dry down

Yellowing and leaf drop is normal with many fig varieties after the fruit emerges. Leaves also yellow from nitrogen lack. If you overwater there is insufficient oxygen at roots causing an in ability of the roots to take up the nitrogen that is present. Reduce watering and fertilize if necessary. I have overwatered, over fertilized (to accelerate growth) and totally abused established figs and never lost a single one. I have savagely cut them to the ground and they have always returned with a vengeance. Established figs are very hard to kill so do not worry. They are almost as tough as me !!!!!!!!!!!! LOL


P.S. If that pot is totally perforated, ditch it and repot in a pot with just a few drain holes. If you have four drain holes duct tape two of them shut or put tray under the pot as an extra water reservoir so you won't have to water so often. Also if the sun is drying the soil too fast place in partial shade and put leaves, pine straw or mulch on top to stop excess evaporation and sun drying. If you think they are root bound slide one out of the pot and take a look and while your there make vertical cuts to any circling roots.

Poor babies! I water every day and sometimes, twice per day when the weather is hot, and I'm in PA.  I noticed that my figs visibly droop when they're thirsty; I never ignore that. Did you notice that they were drooping? I'm kind of new to figs, too, but if they droop, I check for problems.

Im New at this but my plants leaves started turning yellow. I added lime and they greened back up. Im in North West Michigan I water almost everyday. If i put my finger in the dirt and its dry to first knuckle I water.