Remember this branch with huge leaves at John's Market Capri topic?

   

When I was in the market I decided to check on the Capri tree, they had in front  corner of the street from the market, found out they had trimmed the extra branches growing besides the mother tree. I just spontaneously took my cutter from the car and harvested the left over branch, before they illuminate that too some day.
I will attempt to root it my way...no rooting hormones, no baggie or SM or sand...
Direct planting with cover to sweat and root! That's what I have been doing lately.
All I did was dip both cut ends in melted paraffin, just to seal it and prevent infections and rot.
Here's what I am starting with.                                                        Here, I removed one Final Top node to fit the container.
   

This will be good to watch :) 

Can't wait to to see the end result. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Aaron4usa,
It is not my business, but IMO too big upper part. I would put the stick deeper in the dirt and leave less air-exposed volume.
I would have used a bigger pot to allow for more roots before having to touch the stick again.
Wishing you success on your experiment !

-jd, to my opinion, this may work as long as it has a top cover to prevent the cutting from dehydration. Once roots develop, they may support the entire length of the cutting and help it develop canapé'.
That's why I am running this experiment.

Aaron, I'm using this new method to root your cuttings.  I add water from the bottom. The plastic cover keeps the humidity around the cutting high.


    
 

I'm sure it will help not to dehydrate.
 
When I cover the top, I hardly open it again until I see roots all over the bottom clear pot. That way, I never water them until it's time to up-pot. See all these?
The ones further in bank  did much better in terms of time and development... the ones with no perfect match for cover were slow and did poorly, Overall they all survived but the ones in back that had perfect match for cover, and never got water because of that, grew very fast (roots and leaves).

This looks great. I guess I'll try to find a perfect match for covers next time.
I like this method because I can see what is happening under the dome, unlike the black plastic bag method where I would have to open the bag and check. This method also allows the cuttings to establish themselves without having to be re-potted too soon.

Sas, Smart & Final carries clear food containers just like the ones in the pics above... 25 for $8 if i am not mistaken.
I made 4 holes on the under/angled side with screw driver which I heated on the stove top fore. The top ones have no holes.
yes, like you said...You can see what's happening under the dome AND you can monitor the rooting.
And also, once I am done with them, I wash them and keep them for the next batch. Recycle :)

P.S.
I don't use nursery pots to root in them anymore... just clear containers on top and bottom.
Those in pots (in above pic) were older batch of cuttings...

Aaron, that will be fun to watch. I had last fall the left over of the Desert King that I sent out to many.  the piece of wood was like a foot and half rod.  I wrapped in moisted newspaper and put inside plastic bag for about a month, then, I decided to plant it on a 5 gallon pot. I use a 5 gallon water bottle with no bottom as the top. I covered the top with a little garden pot, so there was som 'hot air escaping'.  The thing grew and grew. It is one since stem as fat as my fatty fingers and is about 3 feet tall now.  I am allowing to grow single  as it is part of my own experiment.

in this Brazilian paper, they say that  roughly 20 a 30 cm in length and 1,5 a 3,0 cm de diameter is the ideal for greenhouse starters, and 30 a 40 cm e diâmeter about 1,5 a 3,0 cm when planting directly on the field. Large cuttings have more juice of life in them.

http://www.fruticultura.iciag.ufu.br/figo.html

Aaron, Thanks for the tip. I bet that your rooting result must be much better with this method than with any other method that you've tried so far.

Grasa, I thing the reason this method works is that they sweat and the heavy moisture in the air gets observed through the bark, keeping the cutting always hydrated until it roots. I love this method :)
Great website BTW..I need to translate it in English with Google Translate...

Sas, I have not lost any cuttings with this method yet...(i'm going to bite my tongue)

Update to the oversized cutting: After keeping it planted in transparent food container, for several months, I saw no root development. The log was just being stubborn!!
So in mid-October I decided to take it out of the soil. I washed the entire cutting, no signs of root, rot or damage so far and placed it back in Zip-Lock with moist paper towel.
It stayed in Zip-Lock until I saw some signs of root bumps, solid and hard feel to them in first week of November.
Placed the cutting in Perlite in foot container jar with holes in the bottom. Kept watering the Perlite regularly at all times.
No signs of any parasites (flies, gnats, fungus or mildew) for what so ever. I am LIKING Perlite :)
And now...look at it :)
I think I'll plant it in 1G soon.

 

Edit:
Here's another variety (The Yellow fig with pink Ostiole from Glendale finds) that I tried to root in Perlite. Again Oversized.

     

Nice Aaron! The cutting is looking good! Next time I'm in that area, I'll have to stop by John's Market to say hi to that tree :) the leaves have a really strange and interesting pattern

Dan, 
next time you are in this area you make sure to stop by at our place...
That tree is a Capri with HUGE Capri Figs growing off of it. Great pollinator.