Pictorial: The 5 Minute Mini SIP

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Grasa

Registered:1347083219
Posts: 1,819

Posted 1383151932	Reply with quote #51

Last winter I tried a similar method, only to find that peach web of mold on everything in less than a week- of course all with their lives sucked out of them by the gnats and mold. This method works for older plants, my blueberries do excellent, but my figs don't like to have soggy feet. I found that what really work is to put about an inch of broken down wood chips at the bottom, the chips soak up the water and work as a sponge, but any excess, flows out. Once a week I sit the pots in a bucket with water, the chips soak up, and once out of the bucket all excess water runs out. So far, so good, how challenge is to stay alive for the winter. Hope you have a better less moldy city for the cuttings. __________________ Grasa Seattle, WA

Registered:1252379847
Posts: 1,162

Posted 1383166573	Reply with quote #52

I need a safe house/safer way to overwinter a few layers with lignified roots that are promised to fig friends in the Spring. I have done it "my way" in the past but this way looks better. Thanks Frank. Good idea and I am putting it to the test. Five minutes is more than enough time to make two of them. Repurposed Stuff & Gear: 32 oz yogurt container, 4 oz apple sauce container, straw, soldering iron, scissors, ruler, time. Photo with the layer to follow... Attached Images mini-sip001.jpg (588.56 KB, 85 views) mini-sip002.jpg (615.76 KB, 90 views) mini-sip003.jpg (530.19 KB, 91 views) mini-sip004.jpg (524.78 KB, 91 views) mini-sip005.jpg (593.44 KB, 92 views) __________________ jd \| tallahassee.fl \| zone 8b

Rewton

Registered:1291943117
Posts: 1,946

Posted 1383172537	Reply with quote #53

JD, thanks for posting the pics. I don't know why I didn't think of using a 32 oz yogurt container. It's a better shape than the cups which tend to be top-heavy. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

milehighgirl

Registered:1382109709
Posts: 284

Posted 1384531735	Reply with quote #54

I am wondering how this system improves upon an ordinary wick situated in a pot above a source of water mixed with nutrients. I used to grow African violets and we simply put a small wick in the pot above a water source. The SIP method seems to be quite a bit more time consuming to set up. How is the SIP method better? __________________ USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)

Rewton

Registered:1291943117
Posts: 1,946

Posted 1384532501	Reply with quote #55

Milehighgirl, I've never used a wick but you may be correct that you could get the same outcome and spend less time setting it up. I thought about trying the wick approach a while back but wasn't sure what material was best for the wick itself. With both systems one needs to consider the wicking ability of the soil used. I'm currently comparing a couple different mixes to see how they do. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1386047980	Reply with quote #56

Hi Frank I am finally ready to transfer some rooted cuttings into the SIPs, I have a couple of questions: 1. It is common, the first time one uses a SIP, to water from above the first time, before proceeding to water through a tube thereafter. Do you recommend that with these homemade SIPs? 2. About how much time should the cutting spend in the SIP before transferring to a 1-gallon pot? Thx Rafael __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1386050647	Reply with quote #57

For me, I usually dampen the soil as i'm putting them in these little sips, and water a little from the top, but not enough that it drips into the bottom. Maybe 5 to 10 ml? Then just water from the bottom. Mine are doing quite well. Here's a Joe Dark that I took to work and put under a 20 watt 6500K T12 florecent. This pic was 18 days ago. I was out of the office for 5 days over thanksgiving. When I went in this morning, it was touching the bulb. It burned the end of the leaf. It grew at least 3 inches in those 5 days! I have another Joe Dark in a SIP just like this and it's just as big. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

rafaelissimmo

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Posts: 1,473

Posted 1386053795	Reply with quote #58

Thx Frank. See #45 above, you're not supposed to call it soil! Lol __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

Rewton

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Posts: 1,946

Posted 1386092290	Reply with quote #59

James, previously you said " I'm using potting mix with a little bit of cow manure compost and a lot of Perlite." Have you refined your potting mix since then? I have been using a sand/coir based mix and that has been working well for bare rooted cuttings. However, I've switched to rooting in root riot cubes and the cube of course comes along with the cutting. I thought maybe peat (or coir) with vermiculite/perlite might be better than the sand-based mix for the root riot cuttings so I'm trying to decide on the best proportions so that that upper part of the cup is a bit damp but not wet. Previously I tried one mini-SIP with promix-bx mixed with a little perlite and a little compost but it stays too wet throughout the cup. It looks like that cutting has bit the dust. Also if anyone has advice about fertilizers to use that would be of interest. I've been adding really dilute foliage pro to mine but I'm a little concerned the fertilizer level will build up too high. I wonder if slow release fertilizer would be better? __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

milehighgirl

Registered:1382109709
Posts: 284

Posted 1386093197	Reply with quote #60

Is there a pictorial for the "maxi" SIP? __________________ USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1386094532	Reply with quote #61

Quote: Originally Posted by Rewton James, previously you said " I'm using potting mix with a little bit of cow manure compost and a lot of Perlite." Have you refined your potting mix since then? Also if anyone has advice about fertilizers to use that would be of interest. Nope.. still using the same mix. But it's not an exact mix.. i just kind of eyeball it. Take a large plastic tub and filled almost half with MG potting mix, put a layer of compost over it (tub is about half full or just a little over) add Perlite till nearly full (needs room for stirring). Then I just mix it by hand till it looks uniform. If i have a bunch of dried fig leaves, I crunch them up, removing the stems, and add to it. It's been working great for me in SIPs. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

DallasFigs

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Posts: 990

Posted 1386094623	Reply with quote #62

Quote: Originally Posted by milehighgirl Is there a pictorial for the "maxi" SIP? This one, also from FMD? http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/the-2-minute-2-swc-pictorial-tutorial-6536498 I have 8 of these going right now. 6 outside going dormant and 2 inside. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

milehighgirl

Registered:1382109709
Posts: 284

Posted 1386095438	Reply with quote #63

DallasFigs, Thanks for the link. I tried numerous searches but could not find it. Now I know why; it was listed under SWC instead of SIP! __________________ USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)

Rewton

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Posts: 1,946

Posted 1387059937	Reply with quote #64

I have rooted cuttings going in my basement, including some in mini-SIPs. One Col de Dame Noir started Oct. 22 has really put on large leaves. As you can see from the pic that one is growing in the tall cup using the design presented by James further up-thread. Yeah, this look might not be something I would want in my office at work but the plants really like it. Along with the large leaves it has roots growing directly into the water reservoir and it sucks a lot of water. I'm adding water (with some dilute foliage pro) nearly every day now. I hadn't really planned on potting up this quickly. I guess it is time to think about how to make a 1-2 gallon SIP. Attached Images IMG_2247.jpg (49.30 KB, 65 views) IMG_2248.jpg (67.30 KB, 67 views) IMG_2249.jpg (53.41 KB, 65 views) IMG_2250.jpg (42.14 KB, 64 views) __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

DallasFigs

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Posts: 990

Posted 1387060702	Reply with quote #65

Those look lovely. Nearly all of my bryant darks died. But they were year old cutyings. I have 2 Joe darks that are ready to up pot already. Don't know where I'm going to put them. Also now seeing a few gnats at home. Waiting for gnatrol to arrive today. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1387233544	Reply with quote #66

Hi Frank below are my rooted cuttings as of today, keeping my fingers crossed. Here is my question: I know we want to gets those roots nice and robust, how long do we let the cuttings grow in the SIPs? I know someone said a clear cup would let you see the roots, but we went with the styrofoam-your advice? Thank you and let me know Rafael __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

recomer20

Registered:1378013757
Posts: 402

Posted 1387244235	Reply with quote #67

Adhesive? When making miniSIPS or larger SWCs, are you all using any kind of glue to adhere the smaller "wicking" pot into the bottom of the larger pot, or is it just held down by the weight of the medium? Couldn't tell if that was necessary to limit too much seepage from the water reservoir. Tx __________________ Rick C. Birmingham, AL z7b --- INGROUND: S.C.Lemon ("Dr.Welch"), LSUpurple, Celeste (Std) POTTED 3rd Yr: Alma, Atreano, BattGreen, GrnGreek, HardyChicago, ItalianBlack (Becnel), LSUGold?, MBvs, Sal's EL, Southern BT?, St.Jean, Jackie'sUnk POTTED 2nd Yr: SunbirdUnkJP, BourjNoire, JHAdriatic, ValleNegra ROOTING: RdB, ScottsBlk, BlkGreek-MN,Preto

FMD

Registered:1309800590
Posts: 1,327

Posted 1387244427	Reply with quote #68

Rafael, nice job! I would leave the plants in the mini-sips until they require frequent watering, something like every other day or so. At that point, you know the roots will have filled the container and are ready to be up-potted. Btw, another proponent of this system has proposed keeping the grow mix nice and loose with no compaction for better aeration. I can see the advantages __________________ Frank Tallahassee, FL Zone 8b North Florida Figs

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1387731660	Reply with quote #69

Frank, Thanks for starting this topic. After all the posts on the successful use of SIPs with Fig Cuttings, I decided to experiment with the mini SIPs. I will be testing a few designs on pre-rooted cuttings. Here are two designs that I've tried in the past but have not used with figs. One, Two and Three Liter Soda (Pop) Bottle Planters - Step 1 2-liter soda bottle SIPs with 16 oz deli container tops 2-liter soda bottle SIPs with soda bottle and deli container tops. These are heirloom tomato starter plants The Pellon Thermolam Plus (item # TP970) mentioned in the diagram is a stock item at Walmart @ $3.97 / Yard, SKU# 551772065... 1 yard provides enough material for 182 - 2 liter SIPs (including 10% for waste or 202 without waste). That's about $0.02 per SIP More information on these and other similar designs can be found at http://www.insideurbangreen.org/recycled-popsoda-bottles/

WillsC

Registered:1348087628
Posts: 1,698

Posted 1387732918	Reply with quote #70

I have tried the mini sips and so far I love them, no negative issues with them at all. So far about 106 in sips with no losses though I am sure I will lose some.

manel

Registered:1384140193
Posts: 65

Posted 1387757196	Reply with quote #71

Quote: Originally Posted by FMD Most of us have had problems with the cupping phase of turning a cutting into a fig tree. We finally get that rare cutting to root, only to have it die in the cup. Crap! Why does this happen? Three reasons: over-watering, over-watering and last but not least, overwatering. Oh yeah, occasionally it will die from under-watering (life happens, we forget). You can optimize the growing medium by screening out smaller pieces of perlite, using turface or by sacrificing a chicken to Santeria. Still, none of these measures will eliminate our predilection for over-watering (or under-watering). Human nature to over-nurture our babies is too powerful an instinct to control completely. We literally drown out plants with love. So, what are the possible solutions? The benefits of SIPs (Sub Irrigation Planters) has universal agreement. Many forum members grow their adult trees in SIPs. See Bill's Figs for details (http://figs4fun.com/bills_figs.html). Why do plants do so well in SIPs? Simply because SIPs free plants to self-determination. SIPs allow a plant to feed and drink however much it requires and whenever it wants. In other words, we can't kill it by over or under-watering no matter how hard we try. The mini SIP in this tutorial cost $0 to make and around 5 minutes of my time by recycling 8 and 32 ounce styrofoam cups. I am experimenting with the notoriously finicky, FMV laden UC Davis Black Madeira cuttings. If these succeed, all others should be a cinch. Great Idea Frank! It's done in such a way that all can do and afford. Thanks for your post and your Alma & Atreano cuttings. Merry Christmas, Manel

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1388495731	Reply with quote #72

I have come to the conclusion that the k-cups I'm using in my 32oz deli cup SIP is too big. Instead I'll start using a smaller plastic cup that is about the size of a short shot glass. Out of all the rootings I've moved directly to SIP's, it seems that they struggle or die until they out on some leaves. Once the leaves come, then they start drinking more and more water and do fine. Therefore, I'm changing my strategy a little. When they come out of rooting box and into SIP they get one drink in the reservoir, just enough to soak it all up the first night. But then leave the reservoir dry until it start putting out leaves. Since the top of the sip is closed, the moisture shouldn't escape too much. Once the leaves pop out and/or I notice the container is lighter in weight, then it'll get a little more water in the reservoir. Once it really starts drinking, then I'll keep the reservoir full. We'll see how that works in the comming weeks. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

Rewton

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Posts: 1,946

Posted 1388497875	Reply with quote #73

James - I think that what you are observing (and are compensating for) depends heavily on what type of mix you are using i.e. how much water it wicks and retains. For me, the k-cups used with the tall 32 oz drink cups (placed inside a small reservior cup) have worked great. The only issue is that they area a little top heavy. I use a sand-coir based mix which is heavy but works well for SIPs. Out of 7 mini-SIPs with this mix all cuttings are doing great. I've only lost one and that one was an experiment with a peat based mix which wicked to much water causing the cutting to rot. Obviously the peat based mix that you and others works well but it is a matter of getting the ratio of perlite etc right (along with the design of the cup itself) so that the amount of wicking is optimized. Another thing I have noticed from this thread is that no one (including me) seems to be using a humidity bin with the SIPs. Wills does have one or two out of a couple hundred (!) that has an inverted cup over it but in general the bin doesn't seem to be needed. My cuttings had leaf if any leaf growth when placed in the SIPs (just green buds) so that when the leaves do appear they are already used to the relatively low ambient humidity. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1388498490	Reply with quote #74

more and more i think about SIP, it just makes sense to go that route. it just that i'm too darn lazy and cheap.. plain 1 gal and watering can do the job. but i can see where it's not as good as SIP set up. once the trees go to it's final size container, i would be ideal to have SIP set up where the water to the tree is constant instead of wet and dry cycle. i have seen some set up on the web that uses 20+ gal rubbermaid tub for SIP set up. i might try that.. if i can get myself to get off this recliner. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

Rewton

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Posts: 1,946

Posted 1388499005	Reply with quote #75

Pete, the only downside I have found with the mini-SIPs is that the growth is so vigorous that I am needing to up-pot sooner than I thought I would. Now I am trying decide whether to go to conventional pots (the roots are mature enough now that they should be much more forgiving) or to fabricate larger SIPs. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

bullet08

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Posts: 6,920

Posted 1388499260	Reply with quote #76

faster root growth means.. root pruning more often.. more work.. sigh.. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1388501961	Reply with quote #77

Quote: Originally Posted by "bullet08" faster root growth means.. root pruning more often.. more work.. sigh.. So the conclusion is... WE will never be happier than the FIGs! __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1388502321	Reply with quote #78

I'm using the same mix I use for everything else. MG potting mix, a little cow manure compost and perlite. roughly 40/20/40 ratio. It works well in bigger SIPs, but I guess it just wicks too much for these little ones. Like I said though, once the leaves are out and it starts drinking, it takes off like a rocket. My Joe Dark can drink about 280cc a day, if i let it. The reservoir is empty every morning. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1388502459	Reply with quote #79

oh.. i'm happy with figs. i've made some mistakes and learned from them. i know what i need to do to keep my figs happy. i'm just looking for simpler, less labor intensive way to keep both trees and me happy. i guess i could just plant them in the ground and forget about them.. but what fun in that? some degree of fussing over the figs is good for me. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388511409	Reply with quote #80

I haven't read this entire thread so my question may have been answered and I didn't see it yet. Great thread BTW Frank....... So, is no one using a humidity chamber in junction with these little SIPs? If not, I'm just thinking how nice that would be to by-pass using that step. I used this mini-SIP last year to start some Papaya plants. It worked fantastic but I won't be starting any more Papaya plants until I get my greenhouse built............one of these years. I used some small peat pots set inside of clear plastic cups. The clear cups were nice for monitoring what the roots were doing. I didn't use the standard wicking system. I simply used yarn and it worked quite well. Here are a couple pics of my set up and the results. Note the dates on the plants. The smaller ones, in the plain peat pots, were started a few days before the larger ones: Attached Images Fig_Stuff_045.jpg (349.97 KB, 48 views) __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

DallasFigs

Registered:1358877623
Posts: 990

Posted 1388511765	Reply with quote #81

Thanks for the info Bill. That looks very interesting. __________________ James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a Follow me on EBay Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon

WillsC

Registered:1348087628
Posts: 1,698

Posted 1388512142	Reply with quote #82

I don't use a humidity dome unless a plant is in trouble but this is Florida so humidity we have. In the plant room the humidity is always above 50%.

FMD

Registered:1309800590
Posts: 1,327

Posted 1388513492	Reply with quote #83

Bill, me gusta mucho, the use of peat pots! What is the wicking yarn made of? No overflow hole needed? Wills, I agree that the "humidity dome" is over-rated, especially in non-arid environments. __________________ Frank Tallahassee, FL Zone 8b North Florida Figs

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388517573	Reply with quote #84

De nada, Frank. Hablo un pocinto de espanol :) . Guess you need a spanish speaking computer to make it look right though LOL. Yes, the little clear cups do have 3 or 4 holes in them just below the peat pots. I think you can see them if you look closely at the second pic. I used a syringe type medicine dropper to water them. One of those large turkey/meat injectors from Wally World might work even better (hold more water per load). Not really sure what the yarn is made of. It feels like one of those with some polyester or nylon in it. Maybe a cotton blend. I imagine this would make some difference. But maybe just the open, loose, weave is more of a factor than the type of fabric. Just haven't fully experimented with that yet. Whatever the material, this one just happened to work very well. I may stick to using my covered aquarium on my more valuable cuttings. But I will experiment without the humidity chamber on some cuttings I have a lot of. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1388528100	Reply with quote #85

My sips are thriving in a fairly dry environment, so far. It is a heated basement, 70-75 F, and T5 hydroponic lighting 24/7, there are about 4 leaves on each of my cuttings but I am starting to see them slow down over the last 7-10 days. The boiler is nearby, keeping the temperature warm and dry. I am feeding a nutrient enriched water into bubble-tea sized extra fat straws, straight out of a pitcher with no liquid lost in the pouring. Am watering every 2-3 days. I mistakenly rigged one SIP with a regular straw-I think a syringe might work best with that one. I hope the SIPs survive to make it into the greenhouse in March! __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388535907	Reply with quote #86

Forgot to reply to a couple other folks: James; Yes, I really like this little set-up. I would call it a successful experiment with positive results ;) . It worked so well I just have to try it for getting some tomatoes started in Feb. Oh, and for fig cuttings too :) . Wills; I really like your set-up pictured in post #70. Looks like a real custom job just for the mini-SIPs. I also like how you have the flex straws coming out of the side of the cup instead of straight up. Gives you the option of watering even with a cover on the cup - no need to pick up the cover to get to the straw. Cool! Rafael; Thanks for the info on having yours in a fairly dry environment. Gives me more confidence to try this without the humidity chambers I've been using. What kind of "nutrients" are you using in your water? I agree, larger straws would make for easier watering. But the little syringe droppers work pretty good for the smaller straws too. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

rafaelissimmo

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Posts: 1,473

Posted 1388539390	Reply with quote #87

Hi Bill The nutrients are Cornucopia Plus X Formula, complete nutrition recommended by the hydroponic guys. Great stuff. 1/4 tspoon in a gallon of water. __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388551559	Reply with quote #88

Thanks Rafael. Nice tip! I'll go look the stuff up. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1388644513	Reply with quote #89

I fabricated and tested a few 2 liter Soda Bottle SIPs for use with fig cuttings (the simple build sequence is located at the first hyperlink in post #69 above)... I will be starting a few dozen cuttings early (next week), just to test these SIPs. They work quite well, once the correct wick size was figured out. The wick is 1 inch wide 6 inches long for the standard single bottle SIP and 8 inches long for the 10 inch tall 2 Bottle SIP, they are also split lengthwise except for the bottom 1 inch. The split is to direct the water away from the bottom of the cutting and to the perimeter of the container. With these wick sizes the top one inch of potting mix remains dry, which should help reduce or eliminate fungus gnat problems. The wick also has an added benefit as mentioned by WillsC in one of his posts, it will wick out excess moisture if the cutting is accidentally over watered. To accomplish this the container has to be removed from the reservoir temporarily and placed in a tall cup to create an air gap between the wick and the standing water. I don't usually use humidity domes once the cuttings have grown leaves, but they can be added to these SIPs very easily. .

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388646656	Reply with quote #90

I may have missed this Pete, but what is the wick material made of? Source? __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1388646789	Reply with quote #91

Bill, Quote: From post # 69, The Pellon Thermolam Plus (item # TP970) mentioned in the diagram is a stock item at Walmart @ $3.97 / Yard, SKU# 551772065... 1 yard provides enough material for 182 - 2 liter SIPs (including 10% for waste or 202 without waste). That's about $0.02 per SIP Quote: From Walmart.com Pellon Thermolam Plus Sew-In: Needle-punched fleece Great for quilting, garments, crafts and home decor Compatible with all fabrics including knits Stable and compact for easy cutting Width: 45" 100 percent acid-free polyester Imported Machine washable, delicate cycle, tumble dry low or dry clean

eboone

Registered:1378418906
Posts: 1,100

Posted 1388662727	Reply with quote #92

Quote: Originally Posted by ascpete I fabricated and tested a few 2 liter Soda Bottle SIPs for use with fig cuttings (the simple build sequence is located at the first hyperlink in post #69 above)... I will be starting a few dozen cuttings early (next week), just to test these SIPs. They work quite well, once the correct wick size was figured out. The wick is 1 inch wide 6 inches long for the standard single bottle SIP and 8 inches long for the 10 inch tall 2 Bottle SIP, they are also split lengthwise except for the bottom 1 inch. The split is to direct the water away from the bottom of the cutting and to the perimeter of the container. With these wick sizes the top one inch of potting mix remains dry, which should help reduce or eliminate fungus gnat problems. The wick also has an added benefit as mentioned by WillsC in one of his posts, it will wick out excess moisture if the cutting is accidentally over watered. To accomplish this the container has to be removed from the reservoir temporarily and placed in a tall cup to create an air gap between the wick and the standing water. I don't usually use humidity domes once the cuttings have grown leaves, but they can be added to these SIPs very easily. Pete, I am missing how your soda bottle SIPs are watered. Do you pull the inside part of the bottle out to refill the base? Thanks to all for these ideas!!! __________________ Ed Zone 6A - Southwest PA --------------------------- Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid), Col Littman's Black Cross. And any cold hardy early fig.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1388668099	Reply with quote #93

Ed, Yes, the planter section is simply lifted off the base (reservoir) and about 1 inch of water is added. A straw could be inserted between the planter and base, inside the planter and through the planter bottom or a hole could be made in the side of the base for adding a straw or for filling the reservoir. I have used a 2 gallon garden sprayer with the sprayer tip removed from the wand, to quickly water several dozen non SIP containers, but a simple flood and drain or individual automated fills could also be installed easily : )

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1388686971	Reply with quote #94

Thank you Pete. Haven't read every post so missed that. I really like the idea of using these SIPs for rooting cuttings. I'm still having a hard time getting past the thought of the cutting possibly getting too much moisture though. I guess the idea of not allowing the very top to get wet might help though. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1388688784	Reply with quote #95

Hey Bill I find the top of my styrofoam quite dry, in fact I have drizzled a little water down the top out of concern for the top level roots and shoots present at the time I placed the rootings in the cups. I will allow more roots to develop in my second round of trials, which are currently underway. I also see a little bit of humidity trapped in the top of the cup on some of them, so there are varied results, but nothing bad to report as yet. My worst complaint is that some leaves are green and others are quite pale. And leaf growth seems to have slowed to a crawl. __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

timmy2green

Registered:1304271666
Posts: 196

Posted 1389546113	Reply with quote #96

Ok time to go dumpster diving in our recyclable bin. Let's do this! __________________ Saratoga, NY - Zone 5a Wish List: Sbayi, Poona, Panevino Dark, Lebanese Red, Sumaki, Raspberry Latte, Negretta, Italian 258, De La Reina MP.

timmy2green

Registered:1304271666
Posts: 196

Posted 1389644929	Reply with quote #97

I made up 4 mini-SIPs last night with plastic Moe's cups and Panera water cups. I used spackling screen tape to cover the grooves I cut in the bottom inner cup to keep mix from entering the reservoir in large quantity and spray painted the exterior except a small piece if tape at the bottom that ill peal off to have a window into the reservoir. Also I wasn't sure how y'all secure the straw coming out the side for overflow, so I used duct tape around it to hold the straw in place and prevent leakage. One question I did have is do you need holes up the bottom side of the straw that feeds the reservoir? The only thing I did was make a diagonal cut at the bottom so water could flow freely. __________________ Saratoga, NY - Zone 5a Wish List: Sbayi, Poona, Panevino Dark, Lebanese Red, Sumaki, Raspberry Latte, Negretta, Italian 258, De La Reina MP.

Rewton

Registered:1291943117
Posts: 1,946

Posted 1389646022	Reply with quote #98

Timmy, the overflow straw doesn't need duct tape around it but it wouldn't hurt. You get a little seapage between the straw and the cup when the water level gets high enough but that isn't a problem. Putting a diagonal cut in the bottom of vertical straw is a good idea as it allows the water to flow out of it more rapidly but I've done it both ways and works either way. For more input you might want to provide photos of your system. Good luck. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

timmy2green

Registered:1304271666
Posts: 196

Posted 1389668808	Reply with quote #99

I was going to post pics but my phone battery was dead and now they're painted so it'll have to wait until the next time I drink one of those famous NY big gulps. Will post pics when I find some more containers to modify. __________________ Saratoga, NY - Zone 5a Wish List: Sbayi, Poona, Panevino Dark, Lebanese Red, Sumaki, Raspberry Latte, Negretta, Italian 258, De La Reina MP.

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1390165776	Reply with quote #100

Dear Frank and All who have followed this interesting thread: I am posting these pics of my up-potting today from 32 oz Sip to 1-Gallon pot, root growth looks vigorous, and this particular plant was sucking up the water really fast, so I wanted to get it into a container fast. The others will probably have to follow suit real quick! Edit: it's been around 45-50 days they've been in the Sips. The roots at the bottom appear very close to swallowing up the wicking chamber (i.e. the 8 0z cup at the bottom). I was able to detangle the bottom roots with minimal damage, fortunately the styrofoam is rather flexible. . __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

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