I have a number of figs started from cuttings in Dec. 2012. This year will be the 2nd growing season- all are in 5 gal containers. Quite a few are about 4 1/2 -5 feet tall with a single stem. I assume that if I want more side shoots to form a bushier plant I should cut those long skinny stems back. The question is how far from the ground or how many nodes from the ground?
Rich

And the answer is, it's up to you  :)  You have to decide how tall you want the tree to be and take appropriate action.  Will the center stem be the top height or will you let branches rise above that?  Are you 3' tall and afraid of ladders?  Do you want to pick figs from your third story windows?

Aren't you glad you got such a direct, helpful answer?

If it were my fig, this early in the season and I wanted figs this year I'd fertilize heavily, expose a ring of cambium, treat with clonex and airlayer the top 6-8".  That will release the rest of the nodes from apical inhibition at the same time they get an influx of nutrients and you should get an explosion of new shoots.  If there are certain nodes you want to grow a branch from you can make a cut just above it (or them) before you airlayer the top (or without airlayering the top) and it (or they) should sprout.  If you want the center taller just cut above the nodes you want to branch out without airlayering the top.

Rich, how've you been? All the plants you gave me last year are also pretty tall. All are doing well, some are in the ground.
Consensus seems to be about 18", which would work out nicely for your tall plants.
At the end of this Fall, my plan is to cut everything to that often prescribed height, which will guarantee me backup cuttings, and will also make the plants easier to cover for the Winter.
You may also consider an air layer if the plants aren't fruiting, or don't seem likely to ripen fruit some 6 or 7 weeks before the cold sets in.
You should read 'The Kadota Fig: A treatise on its Origin, Planting, and Care' by W. Sam Clark.
It's a pretty old book, so it's easy to find it for free online.
Within the first few pages there is a good bit about planting and pruning, with great photos.

Great idea!

http://ia600404.us.archive.org/0/items/kadotafigtreatis00clar/kadotafigtreatis00clar.pdf

Hi Rich, how are things up your way after the awful winter?

Are you coming back down this way this summer?

Rich, just pinch the Tip, the part that's closed and sharp, you'll be surprised,  in few weeks.
Every leaf site will show some type of growth, either fig or branch bumps, or both.
Don't prune.
Good luck.

Hi Rich,
I would cut at 3,5'/1 meter and let it branch .
Now as rcantor said, if the target size is building high ... Let it grow.
But in my Zone7, for easy winter protection, IMO, 1 meter for the main trunk is a good size and that will leave you with branches to airlayer later if you want ( if 6 branches come out, you may want to airlayer some later on or simply cut them and keep 4 for instance and depending on the space you have ... ).
The 1' you are cutting, you could try rooting it of course, as if I understood you well, that stem is already hardened from the winter ...

The final choice is always yours of course !

In a 5 gallon bucket there is a real risk of the wind catching the leaves and breaking. It happened to me last year and I had no ripe fruit after waiting all year long.

I suggest to prune to 18 inches above the soil line a few inches above a node (make cuttings with the rest and root or sell them) and feed it well. It will branch out soon as it warms up.  

Good luck!

Rich,
Your desired tree height would dictate how low you would prune... Last year I posted these diagrams to a pruning topic, http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6388743 with progress pictures.

Basic Tree form pruning diagram...
 

Basic Bush form pruning diagram...



Here is a picture of a 1-1/2 year old Fig tree pruned in the Bush Form. All visible growth is 1 season old.


Good Luck.