I am currently attempting to root some cuttings using the NEW bag rooting method described in another thread.  I am curious about the watering of cuttings using this method.  The perlite is obviously dry.  I have the plantings in my house in a milk jug I cut in half.  I know that water logged cuttings lead to rot, but I don't want to have them dry out either.

Are they covered with anything?  If they are exposed they will tend to dry out more.  It can be hard to tell how much moisture is really in the perlite.  In order to tell for sure what I do is take a decent sized piece of perlite between my fingers and crush it.  This way I can see how much water is in it.  If bone dry, even after crushing, you should add some water.  If there is water inside the perlite then watering may not be necessary.  Covering might be advised either way depending on relative humidity in the room.

One of the beauties of this method is that the cutting is nearly buried, so there is much less surface area to evaporate from.

Second, the mix should be well-draining enough that the excess water drains out. Which also means that you should be able to re-water with no ill affects.

Lastly, if you see condensation on the inside of the bag (that is one of the reasons why is is clear), then there is enough moisture.

Thanks guys. I have condensation on the interior of the bags. House humidity is currently around 68 percent ( I have a weather station). As insurance I have put a gallon ziplock bag over the top to hold in some extra moisture.

I had more problems with perlite using that method, so I started using more like 85% potting mix and 15% perlite.  Pre-moisten the mix, bag it, put it in a sealed box, never water it again.  They can go for 3-4 months without needing any water.

Can someone post a link to the thread describing the NEW rooting method please?

Yes, you'll find it here:  http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag_New_Style.html

That link was down for me just now, so here is a thread I made that revolves around that method which should work.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Playing-around-(rooting)-5477383

Turface (Schultz soil conditioner in my case) is a good thing to add to the perlite, it changes color from pale tan when dry to orangy brown when wet. I find it much easier to use it as an indicator for watering than weight.

I agree with Jason that pre-moistening is very effective.  I mix my potting mix and perlite in a wheel barrow in my garage, and put enough water on until I know it's moist.  Then I put it in a pot or bucket and bring it inside the house to let it get up to the proper temperature.  Then the next day I'm sure it is plenty moist, but not water logged.  Then if I use the bags and keep the cuttings in covered bins, there is so little moisture loss that watering is not necessary until after potting up.  At most a light misting of the top after a month or two.  Of course if you take them out of the bins for any length of time (meaning days) you will need to check if watering is necessary.  I uncover for an hour or so a day, and like Jason, find that watering is really never necessary.

I used a mix of approximately 75 percent perlite 25 compost/topsoil. Topsoil is a silt loam so it is good at retaining water.

I have an Italian honey fig in the house right now that is starting to bud out and it has tiny breba figs.

Womack, if that tree is something you just rooted recently, I'd break those figs off.

Satellite head,
I thought about knocking off the fruits once they get a little bigger and are better differentiated from the adjacent shoot sprouts. It is a fig that I ordered and is in a half gallon pot.

Fruit production requires significant energy, it saps energy reserves in your plant, redirecting crucial energy to places it shouldn't be at that age/size.  It takes a good amount of energy for an actual tree to produce fruit, much less a twig, and a half gallon is pretty small.  To boot, first-year fruit tends to be pretty worthless, and (at least with my Italian Honey trees) the breba crop is really not that great already. 

I'd always encourage knocking off fruit on something that small so the maximum energy goes towards building up that trunk and vascular system. 

I've stunted the growth of far too many fruit trees and fruit bushes being stubborn and leaving fruit on.  I almost killed two of my blueberry bushes a couple years back because I had to have fruit the first year in-ground.  I picked off the other three bushes of fruit (planted same year).  That was four years ago.  The bushes I plucked fruit off of are 3'x3' in size and well branched.  The two I left the fruit on are still less than a dozen twigs thinner than a pencil and hardly a foot tall or wide.

Just sharing my experience.

Satellite head,

Thanks for the info. We are on the same page with getting rid of the fruit. My reasoning for thinking about fruit thinning originated with my experience with blueberries and raspberries. It is hard to pick off those blossoms though.

Ya'll didn't get any of the storm damage did you?

Nope, no storm damage.  Thanks for asking!