There are two approaches for moving plants from low light to high light locations and the resultant photo-oxidation (sunburn) that can accompany that move; but first, let me say that leaves are only capable of adapting to light changes within a certain range. I'll explain that with some numbers.
Let's divide light levels into a 1-10 scale with 1 being extremely dim and 10 being blazing light. If a leaf is formed under a light level of, say 4, it's range of adaptability, even with gradual exposure to brighter light, might only be from 2 - 6 or 7. IOW, leaves formed at a light level of 1 - 6, will probably never be able to adapt to a light level of 9-10. The plant will simply shed the leaves and grow new ones. This is especially true when the transition is from high light to low light.
This next might cause a gasp, but if your plant is reasonably healthy (ie, not circling the drain) you CAN simply move it from low light to full sun. Yes, the leaves will be burned and shed, but they will be quickly followed by a flush of new foliage that comes in perfectly adapted to the new light conditions - not the end of the world. I'm not advocating for either practice, ie gradual acclimation or just dumping them into the sun. The later practice does tend to significantly increase back-budding, however. Bright light, air movement, an adequate N supply, and of course, pinching, are other ways to create additional lateral breaks, but Edward's tree will always be limited in its ability to backbud on the wood that exists now because of the extremely long internodes formed under low light conditions. Fortunately, that will change with regard to the new wood that forms as soon as the plant is transitioned to direct sun.
Al