Register  |   | 
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment  
pacifica

Registered:
Posts: 285
Reply with quote  #1 
Please adv when is the latest to do fig tree t budding ? 
can I do this for now ?
Thanks
lampo

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 2,376
Reply with quote  #2 
You may try.. In the Med zone this is approx  the time limit for it (Sept) - freshly cut buds on 1 to 2 yr root stock-
All depends on how your root stock allows you an easy separation of the bark ....at this time of the year if successful the grafted buds will stay dormant and will only shoot next spring .. you need to protect through winter
These videos are not specific to figs but the technique is exactly the same



if you like and speak the language here is another one in French


or italian .. very well prepared suggesting even the best bud selection



good luck
Francisco
Portugal
pacifica

Registered:
Posts: 285
Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Francisco,

Thank you very much for your valuable informations together with great videos to show me how to do a T-Budding. That helps me a lots with many thanks.

It looks like I can use any tape for wrapping the bud o ensure it can stay on the bark right ? does not have to use special Hidrofilm for wrapping as suggested by other videos.

Thanks and regards

Pacifica


lampo

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 2,376
Reply with quote  #4 
Hi Pacifica
IMO you may use Parafilm.. I do it always with T & Chip budding be it in April/May (for live buds) or August (for dormant)
Some professional grafters just use rafia or the rubber band  or even the cellulosic rubber patch (okulette) as shown by the French fellow.
Most never seal the graft with wax.  Some use cheap transparent  plastic film or electrician plastic self adhesive tape.
You have many options.. up to you to decide (*)

(*) If you encounter problems lifting the bark on your root stock to introduce the scion bud,  you may with a clean, very sharp knife , proceed with ' chip budding'.



Regards
Francisco
pitangadiego

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 5,516
Reply with quote  #5 
T-budding needs to be done when the bark "is slipping". If you can't easily peel back the bark, you can't insert the bud in behind the bark. Usually the bark is "Slipping" when the plant is actively growing and the bark is loose to allow for the expansion/growth of the branch.
__________________
Encanto Farms Nursery
http://encantofarms.com
http://figs4fun.com
http://webebananas.com
"pitangadiego" everywhere
pacifica

Registered:
Posts: 285
Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks for your great information. I will take your adv and do it still mid Spring 
pacifica

Registered:
Posts: 285
Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lampo
Hi Pacifica
IMO you may use Parafilm.. I do it always with T & Chip budding be it in April/May (for live buds) or August (for dormant)
Some professional grafters just use rafia or the rubber band  or even the cellulosic rubber patch (okulette) as shown by the French fellow.
Most never seal the graft with wax.  Some use cheap transparent  plastic film or electrician plastic self adhesive tape.
You have many options.. up to you to decide (*)

(*) If you encounter problems lifting the bark on your root stock to introduce the scion bud,  you may with a clean, very sharp knife , proceed with ' chip budding'.



Regards
Francisco


Hi Francisco
Where can I buy Parafilm as suggested ? pharmacy ?


lampo

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 2,376
Reply with quote  #8 
Pacifica,
For jobs I decide to do 'by the book' .. have been using a Japanese brand -
http://www.buddytape.com/#contact

it's not cheap but IMO is the best
On other occasions , a piece of thin plastic film from the supermarket bags , electrician tape, rubber bands.. etc also do the job

here a fellow doing an early spring apple side graft and using that Jap. tape. ..just for you to see how it works

Good luck
Francisco
jrdewhirst

Registered:
Posts: 373
Reply with quote  #9 
I've only done T-buds once, with 8/9 success.  I found that the good tape tended to crack and peel unless I used a lot of it.  I think I lost the one bud because the tape loosened.  I think I ended up rewrapping the buds 3 times.  Next time I'm going to try something tougher for 1-2 wraps, maybe surveyor's tape, then cover with the grafting tape.  

If you use a tougher tape, after 2-3 weeks when the graft has "taken", make sure the tape is open near the growing bud.

__________________
Joe D
Z6B - Bristol, RI
pino

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 2,473
Reply with quote  #10 
Timing for t-buds is a bit confusing for me.  In temperate climates the graft window seems much larger.  In cold climates need to worry about winter onset and short growing seasons.
 
Graft basics require that; the bark is slipping and the scion is dormant.

If budding done now the bud will need to survive dormant through the winter and then you need to ensure that the grafted bud can be forced to grow in spring.  
If done in spring when the rootstock is growing/bark slipping then once the graft has calloused over you have still same issue of how do you force that bud to grow?

For fruit trees they suggest cutting off the rootstock above the bud to force growth.  Does that work with figs or can that dry out the bud?


__________________

Pino, zone 6, Niagara
Wish List: Brogiotto Bianco, Fico Datto, Fiorone di Ruvo, Fracazzano Multicolore, Fiorone Oro, Popone, Rigato del Salento and other multi colour striped figs

Pino's Figs / Pino's Photos; 2017 Brebas / 2017 Main crop

fignutty

Registered:
Posts: 710
Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pino
Timing for t-buds is a bit confusing for me.  In temperate climates the graft window seems much larger.  In cold climates need to worry about winter onset and short growing seasons.
 
Graft basics require that; the bark is slipping and the scion is dormant.

If budding done now the bud will need to survive dormant through the winter and then you need to ensure that the grafted bud can be forced to grow in spring.  
If done in spring when the rootstock is growing/bark slipping then once the graft has calloused over you have still same issue of how do you force that bud to grow?

For fruit trees they suggest cutting off the rootstock above the bud to force growth.  Does that work with figs or can that dry out the bud?



Yes figs are the same as fruit trees. You cut off everything above the bud when you want it to grow. I've found that there can be issues with getting the bud to grow even properly done. So I like leaves or a shoot below the scion bud to sustain the roots until the new scion can leaf out.

I've had nearly 100% takes T budding figs but maybe 10% that refused to grow when forced even thou the scion bud was big and plump.

__________________
Steve in Alpine TX 7b/8a
Wish list: Emalyn's Purple, CdD Blanc, Genovese Nero AF, Violeta, Hative de Argentueil
pacifica

Registered:
Posts: 285
Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrdewhirst
I've only done T-buds once, with 8/9 success.  I found that the good tape tended to crack and peel unless I used a lot of it.  I think I lost the one bud because the tape loosened.  I think I ended up rewrapping the buds 3 times.  Next time I'm going to try something tougher for 1-2 wraps, maybe surveyor's tape, then cover with the grafting tape.  

If you use a tougher tape, after 2-3 weeks when the graft has "taken", make sure the tape is open near the growing bud.


Again thanks Francisco for your video. It looks like I will do t-budding as per your  video - looks easy and simple.

Attached is photo of medi care clear tape that I bought this morning. Can I use this clear tape to begin with since I am ver new to this t-budding.

Thanks............

Attached Images
jpeg Medi Care Clear Tape.jpg (145.79 KB, 13 views)

Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.