If you want "computerized" input, then there are a number of online firms offering mail-order embossed or engraved stainless metal tags starting around $5 each for small quantities.

Oh boy... another toy.

Since soda and beer can metal tear so easily, I looked around and found some really heavy aluminum embossing sheets from an art supply place. Easy to cut with heavier scissors or old-fashioned paper cutter and can be embossed with no trouble by writing on with a ball point pen. Only problem is that the edges can be a bit sharp if you have kids (or adults) that are attracted to shiny objects.

I was about to try sticking a sheet of aluminum flashing in my 1911 Underwood type writer, but I couldn't resist the Rhino. Probably would have ruined the Underwood anyway.

My soda can tags seem to last just fine, but the ones that don't are the ones stuck in the ground made from blinds.  Why would that be?  I'm thinking a certain person, whose name I won't mention, goes to fix a dripper, moves things around, and the tag is somewhere under mulch.  It could be anywhere from 1 - 6' from the tree.  Just found RDB's tag yesterday, 4' from the tree.  Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Suzi

I started using soda can tags on plants (pre-fig days) a number of years ago. The idea is very appealing, but not a single one lasted past 3-4 years. The metal is just too weak for my uses.

My favorite default labels are mini blinds with pencil, but mainly for veggie seedlings which do not require a long life. The blinds survive, but eventually the writing fades. When using in soil, I do like to cut them long and stick them in as deep as possible.

Harvey, he must be using the pointy square corner ones.....and not the Impress-O tags.  Those will rust on you!  The Impress-O tags i use have never rust plus the corner are round on them.  Use 2 different size zip ties to secure on your tree.  

However, I'm getting ready to switch to brass and engrave a number on each.

  I use aluminum strips made from soda or beer cans. Using a utility knife and sturdy scissors with serrated blades, cut away the top and bottom, then cut lengthwise to make individual sheets. To flatten, wrap one or two sheets around a 1’’ dowel (clear aluminum side out) and roll them on a hard even surface.

With an old paper cutter, cut and trim the rough edges further into 3-1/2” x 8” sheets, then cut into 1/2” x 8” or 3/4” x 8” strips. Over a folded newspaper, print the variety name on the clear side with a spent ball point pen (a Sharpie works as well; a letter puncher is even better). To attach to a rooted cutting or tree, line up the two ends to overlap; staple together with a Tot stapler using #10 staples (standard staplers don’t work as well).

I use 1 1/2 inch stainless steel washers about .5 cents each and electric engraver $12.99 (could use hammer and a die set ) they last forever just change zip ties . I also use blinds for better visibility and extra info and a paint pen for a number on tree for security ( could use a bigger washer)

Yes, I have been using Impress-O tags. Harvey, I think you are right about the square punches. The force of hammering on them must have created a break in the edge seam, and once moisture gets in, the inside layer swells . Even with the delamination, they will probably last a good long while. I guess I just like the way they look with embossed letters rather than hand writing. Damn my OCD.

Lots of great suggestions in the thread and some new ideas to try. Thanks.

So far, I have been a fan of recycling 1 inch vinyl old mini blinds for propagation projects, as long as I knowl they are newer, not the ones from the 90s rumored to have lead. I use pencil to mark on them. It's not much work or time for something I will shortly give away to a new home. And they slide down the curved edge of a plastic cup nicely. But I also make permanent labels with soda or beer cans or copper ( like the thin rolls to keep snails out of raised beds ) for anything that ends up in the ground.