I have to dig up 8 trees I planted in the ground in September and relocate them.

I had an arrangement with my elderly neighbor next door to utilize an unused open space of about 1/4 acre.

He changed his mind when I took him over a trash can and asked him to please put plastic in it and once a week I would come and get it and place into my receptacle for the trash to pick up.  

He, like more than 1/2 of my rural neighbors burn their trash, which depending on wind conditions can make my oasis smell like a toxic chemical plant; something I never considered when moving from Austin 5 years ago.

He had recently started a small trash fire which ignited some fiberglass rope that then created a cloud so noxious that just thickly hung (no wind whatsoever) over the area settling over my goats.  That's what prompted me to ask him kindly to throw his trash into the trashcan I provided.

He is, well, very cranky, bitter, you know the type, family don't visit because he's a jerk.  He took my good intention as to me telling him what to do, "I'll burn what ever the hell I want and no one can stop me, if I want to, I'll burn plastic right against your fence".

I have decided that I'm through taking his negativity, if he wants stuff done at his property he will have to pay someone else (I never took payment, I just wanted the planting space).  No longer a win-win situation. I felt empathy for him, but he is incapable of this feeling I see now.

Basically now I have to move the trees.  And all hopes of fig orchard there are dashed.  I don't have near the open space on my side.  I know poor me, I can only put a couple dozen in ground here.

My question is:  If these fig trees were going to bear this year will they still after moving them?

That stinks, Don - literally and figuratively. I'm not sure about them bearing fruit, but how about your back - how big are they now? Good luck. 

If they are still dormant, they will bear.  We moved 2 in ground figs from one place to our new place.  The problem was they had huge root balls and were really pretty big trees, but they were dormant.  We pruned the root ball so we could get the trees out, then pruned the tops (many here benefited from those cuttings), and put them in-ground here.  When they woke up, they didn't miss a beat.  Lots of figs!

Good luck, and sorry about your cranky neighbor!

Suzi

I think also they will bare fruit. Think about the little cuttings we root they sometimes bare fruit. Water them extra long time wait 24 hours and dig them up. This will retain the smaller roots that take up nutrition. Richie from louisiana zone 8

You never know Don, they might end up loving the new spot. Would anyone recommend pruning on top after making a move like this? I always do, even just a bit, something I picked up from my pops...

They should bear if you get a good portion of the major roots, the tops didn't die back over the winter, and you plant them before they leaf out. 

To some degree it would depend on the variety.  What I found when I transplanted about 10 trees from containers to my backyard last April was that they generally were delayed in setting fruit.  Eventually all of them set lots of fruit but not very much of it had time to ripen.  I had high hopes that after establishing their root systems over the 2014 season, and getting in synch with the seasons, that I would get fruit from all of them in 2015.  However, I fear that many will be too frost damaged to bear and will consider myself lucky if I don't lose any.  The shorter season variety you have the more likely that you will get fruit before dormancy starts.  Being in Texas your chances will be better than here in Maryland.

Sorry to hear about this Don. But I think your trees will bear. I moved a small tree last year in April or May, it still grew and produced 2-3 dozen figs that rippened, and another dozen that did not make it because of frost. I would say move the trees as soon as you are sure frost danger has passed and give them plenty of water since their root systems will be compromised. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement.  

I cleared some dead trees (never thought I'd be happy about having dead trees) to make room.  This place was a thick forest before the drought.

I'm thinking of 6' on center so to get as many as possible into the new space, others will be scattered where there are openings to the sun.  

You can also put some as an espalier if you have any open fence space. I plan to do a couple this way to maximize the high ground in my back yard.

I bet those trees have done little growing since you planted them.  September is very close to dormant time, and roots don't grow during dormancy.  Probably be very much like they were when you planted them.  Just get them moved before they wake up!

Good luck!

Suzi

Don, It's a little work but can be done if you take your time and try to get all of the root ball.  I did this very thing back in December.  I dug up a huge Smith tree but the root ball isn't as large as you might think.  You will find one main root running near the soil line.  Here is what to do!

go to Lowes and in the garden section, get about 8 rolls of burlap.  Depending on the size of the root ball, you may need one roll per tree.  Using 2 shovels and some hand trowels, start digging the tree out. When you come across some roots, jump in and using your hand tool slowly dig out the roots.  DO this all around the tree.  Once you are able to put your hand completely under the root ball, stick a shovel all the way under and wiggle up and down.  You will start to see the main root runners.  There will be 2 or 3 of them.  When you find them, jump in again and using your hand tools scrape away the dirt until the roots are out.  Do this all the way around the tree and you're done. 

To wrap the tree, I take about 4 feet of the burlap and cut it laying the rest of it crossways.  then I place the root ball in the middle and tightly wrap the tree.  Tie it up using burlap twine and stuff that dude inside a 10 or 15 gallon plastic pot place it in the garage and dump a half a bag of mini pine bark nuggets on it.  Wet i the whole thing then wait from Spring.

This is my method.  It works for me.  My trees done this way are now trying to leaf out inside my garage.  Wet the root ball once a month.

The trees might surprise you.  They may product a lot of figs in response to having the roots trimmed.  Just make sure you watch the watering because they will have less roots to support that top growth.  I believe they sell fertilizer with b vitamins to help encourage new root growth and reduce transplant shock.

Hi Don,

Sorry to hear about your problem.

FYI Early last summer, I planted a brown Turkey and a Kadota fig tree on one of my wild properties . They were about 3 foot long and I did not water all summer long, so they totally died and I wrote them off.(I have Black soil)
Last week I was busy planting some trees and as I was inspecting one dead fig tree (Not sure which one),I saw a root sucker that was green and very much alive. I was thrilled. I will have to wait until it fruits to know which one made it.
I do not believe that it is too late to relocate those trees. Good luck!

As for bearing, It is a different story. A fig tree could go from fruiting to a vegetative state from one year to the next. I've had trees fruit in their first year and then nothing in the second year.
Stress could lead to fruit dropping. Since they are still dormant, you have a chance but the tree needs at least one season to get reestablished in its new location. It is not a big deal if it does not fruit. I would be more concerned with growth and structure rather than fruiting.

Good Point, I should be concerned with growth.  I should get some Thrive Alive or similar, but I'm pretty confident they will take, lots of roots, and very thick mulching.

But you know how it is, I've babied them for a year and really expected fruits off of at least my MBVS which had grown quite large in a year.  I am very anxious to try some of my figs besides Celeste, not knocking Celeste mine is good and peachy.

Right now I'm most concerned with the fact that some are breaking bud and we have more cold on the way.  It was really warm for the first of February here. 

My Smith which was wrapped in pipe wrap foam and ends closed with duct tape molded, lost about half of its height, some other trees protected in same way also had mold issues although not as extreme.  If I wrap any others in the future I'll find something more breathable. 

Sas,  That is definitely a testament to how tuff some of these figs are, un-watered in summer here, and still survived.  I think your out of the woods now, that tree will make it. 

Don, I transplanted my MvsB last year (see my post above) and it did give some ripe fruits though not nearly as many as it would ordinarily be capable of.  I wouldn't worry very much about getting at least a few off of the Mt. Etna types.  It is the later ones that may not yield a properly ripe fig this year due to being set back by transplanting.  At least that is my experience.  This is why I mentioned it depends on the variety.

About two Weeks ago, I gambled and planted another 22 (almost two year old) fig trees at the same location (and expanding).
They included names such a Tashkent, Celeste,Texas Lemon Fig, Col de Dame, Magnolia,Black Mission, Improved Celeste,Beers Black...
This time, when possible, I will try to use 5 gallon buckets to irrigate at least once per week during the hot season. I'm willing to wait for the fruit as long as they survive.

Hi Don

If you transplant in Sept. (it might be better if you can make nicey nice until Oct.) your trees should have enough time to reestablish roots before next growing season.  You may have a reduced yield, but it should be there.  Irrigate frequently, but I would leave it unmulched until March/April when it starts getting hot.

Good luck,
~james