yesterday, i pot up all my trees. once they were out of the 4g pot, i could see that bottom half of the roots were wrapping around the inside of the pot. not really bad yet. since i didn't want to shock the tree, i just pot it like that and will be doing repotting come spring.

now question is, when i pull the trees out again in spring for repot, i'm thinking about root pruning. this from what i have read on this forum will help. how does most of the forum members prune their root? i read number of different methods. 1) using copper pipe and poke hole down to the bottome 2-3 places a month, 2) cut two 1/6 of the pie out of the soil/root out, and 3) cut 2" all around and at the bottom.

which works the best?

pete

For me I wouldn't root prune until your in the final pot size. Just loosen up the bottom a little before potting up if not there yet.

For me, ( I have not done this yet), I would get a hand saw and slice 2 to 4 inches off the bottom and 2 inches off the side, in a square. I would do this every 2 yrs or so.

I will not be going any larger than 24 to 30 inches in diameter.

Hi Bullet,
what has worked for me over the years.
I loosen rootball up a bit and put in final pot size and wait 2 seasons and pull to inspect roots to see if it needs root pruneing if not i wait till 3rd season then for sure i root prune. Some are more agressive than others.

Once in final pot below

If mine needs root pruning depending on size of rootball compared to pot i cut bottom and the top as well then i wedge out the sides for lack of better words.
The sides i cut like this in picture.
May not be perfect way but always has worked for me.
Also i trim tree canopy as well, i forgot one season one 1 of my trees and following fig season tree drop most of its figs and this tree never did that ever.
Here are couple picture to show its easier for me than explaining in words.

Thanks Martin-

Forgot about the canopy- Balance is needed- if you don't trim both, the roots won't have enough capacity to suck up nutients.

is it better to root trim in early spring, just before breaking dormancy or now before they go dormant ? does it even make a difference?
its now october and i guess we have another 4-6 weeks  or so in NE before we bring pots indoors
thank you, eli

Hi Pete

I asked about a hand saw, Bill of Bill's Figs told me that the roots would dull a handsaw pretty quickly, he recommends using a sharp shovel or a hand ax, I went with the hand ax. He told me to prune an inch and a half off the sides and bottom. And yes, prune the canopy or pay the price. Some members have told me they use a bonsai hook to separate thick roots from fine roots, trimming only the thicker roots.

Martin- if you see this, would love to know what you meant by wedge the sides. You mean pinch them?

Good luck with it!

Rafael

Very nice information. Make sure you need to sanitize your cutters before you cut the next tree, otherwise you spread diseases from one tree to the other tree. Thanks for sharing.

Best,
Tam

Rafael hear is first wedge cut made with more that followed.
Also now use a reciprocating saw with 9 inch wood pruning blade.
Much easier on back than the old bow saw.

Pete, I suggested using a pipe as a way to alleviate congestion in the rootball when traditional root pruning was not appropriate. I do not think I would use it over other root pruning methods. I find bare rooting a tree is only tedious if the tree is severely root bound. In those situations just cutting a portion of the growing mix away limits how much space the tree has to grow in. If root work is done at regular intervals, removing the growing mix goes pretty quickly.

Also, I have removed up to 80%+ (normal root pruning for me is better than 60%) of the root mass without pruning any additional from the top than I would had I not performed root work. If the tree does not need top pruning, I don't make any cuts at all. It may be my climate, but I have not seen any top die back.

Martin, do you do any work to the bottom of the rootball?
Do the thicker, longer roots get flush cut?

i would love to know if this is something i can do now before dormancy and allow 1 month or so for head start recovery or should wait till winter and freeze myself in the garage doing this later on next spring?

Wait till winter.   :)  Less stress on the plant.

On Re-potting should the soil on the bottom have a lot of perlite, wood chips to help drainage, I am asking because I bought trees from nurserys that had a light mixture and the water drained out immediately......So I have heavy amount of soil on bottom to retain water...???? Thank You, fellow members.

armando,my personal opiion is that lite, fast draining is better. your figs won't split from excess rain if you keep it fast draining. i use 5-1-1 and my figs are happy.

Ruuting yes bottom of rootball gets cut off at least several inches some larger plants more is severed.
Top of rootball also the same up to the trunk and completely around it.

As for when its done i do in March or 1st week of April right before they wake up.

Thank you Martin.