I have gotten/will be getting some fig cuttings from generous members in this forum.  Since this is going to be my first experience with rooting anything, I'd like to first try the simplest method -- which is to directly root in a cup.

I have no heat pad and I have no grow light, but I do live in sunny California (where even bird poo can grow into a tree, lol!).  So in March, when we start our tomato garden, I will take advantage of what nature offers and just put the cups out in a sunny spot (will bring them in after sunset so that the critters don't knock the cups over).

In the cups, I plan to use Pro-Mix BX with Biofungicide+Mycorrhizae (I could not find a low cost source for HP).  I have read that I should mix in additional perlite (2:1), so I'll do that.

Any other advice?

I think your main concern will be watching your moisture levels.  Cups outside are very small containers which can dry out very quickly, especially when placed in the sun.  You might want to consider starting them in shade or partial shade and closely monitoring water levels until you get a feel for it.

You might not want to put them in direct sun until after they have leafed out and have roots visible either through the cup or holes at the bottom, and you will probably need to ease them into the full sun. Greenfig does something exactly like what you are saying and he's in CA also, you could probably search topics keyword rooting under his name to see exactly what he does; or he might just chime in. 

If you are getting a good bunch of cuttings. I would put some in the refrigerator. That way you can save a few, after figuring out, if you made any  mistakes. You should put the brown cuttings in the refrigerator, the green ones don't hold up well in the fridge (mold).

Hi,
Use 1/2 or 1 gallon pots. You don't want to loose them at first pot up .
If you know their definitive place, put some directly in ground at cutting stage; water the place well.
I use either way as a standard .

Here is one method I am trying in coco coir. I have the coir moist and the cuttings are just sitting in the moistened coir in a plastic box which I keep closed.

Hi Linda,
    Lots of great people here on this forum with plenty of experience. I am sure you will here more from them. I am a newby to figs, but not for rooting. I am learning Fig cuttings are hardy than most of us think. Provided the right level of humidity and comfortable rooting temperature (76 to 80 F), the cuttings will root.

    Again, potting them directly to potting mix in transparent containers seems to be easiest method to watch the development and improving the survival rate while transplanting. As long as you maintain the potting mix moist to damp (not sopping wet) and temperatures are maintained, they will readily root. Good cuttings are also important for the viability to establish. Keep the cuttings covered using a plastic bag to maintain the humidity. Please do not put your rooting set up in direct sunlight. This WILL cook your cuttings :). Keep them in diffused sunlight or under shade all the time until they root strongly.

   Some cuttings will sprout before rooting. This may happen if the outside temperature is consistantly higher than the potting mix temperature. This is where the heat mat comes handy. But not to worry, these sprouts will establish if they are getting nutrients from the newly developing roots, if not they will die and sprout back again when you have the roots established. This is what happenned to most of first batch.

  You can then train your young plants to brighter light(again not direct sunlight) once you see them putting growth. Feeding them with a week solution of fertilizer for a few weeks, after the roots esablish and before transplanting help become plants stronger and take the transpalnting stress relatively easily. 

  Good luck and most of all, have fun. We can only baby them so much. The cuttings will do the rest and they know when.

Hi Linda!

I'm also in California. San Juan Capistrano are to be exact. I have rooted figs in the past just by making a 6-7"cutting and placing it in the dirt with just the top node exposed. More recently, I have used the sphagnum moss and love it. It needs to be only the slightest bit moist. No mold, no problems at all.  

I would suggest some cloning gel to increase rooting speed and success. According to sources on this website, don't use a cloning powder. I also made a slight score of 1/2 - 1" along the base of the cutting prior to dipping. 

Best of luck! :)

Thank you everyone for taking the time to give me suggestions and encouragements!

I will not be planting directly in the ground because I only have 2 spots available in the ground.  All the cuttings will be in ziploc bags in the fridge, I will root in batches (using different strategies to see which one works).  I will keep the cups out of direct sunlight until I see good root and leave development, then I will gradually expose the cups to more sun light.

I will keep a photo journal when the time comes and share my progress here.  Fingers crossed!!!

Linda, sounds like a well thought out plan.  Looking forward to your progress and results.  From what I have seen on this forum, rooting hormone of any kind is a waist of money.  The threads I have followed here, from some experienced growers, see no benefit so no need to spend $ for no benefit.  Enjoy the journey.