I'm sure that someone may have mentioned it elsewhere since so much is covered on this Fig treasure site but, here goes anyway. 

What is your preferred (which gave best results) method for rooting your cuttings during FALL and WINTER?

I know that spring is best but, hey we can't always control when we get cuttings eh?

So, if you have cuttings right now (October-I'm in MD zone 7a)
and you have cuttings that are either green or brown would you:

A. Refrigerate them and wait until spring or 
B. Start them rooting right away?

Which method gives the best/most rooting success in the fall?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences.

The fresher the cutting the greater chance of survival but the chances of survival are still very good after a few months of refrigeration.  The real question is, if you root it now can you keep it healthy over the winter?  Too little light will produce a scraggly fig that gets progressively weaker.  I can keep a limited number in good shape so for the cuttings I'm getting now I'm rooting 1 and putting the rest in the fridge.

I live in warm, sunny SoCal, so I root cuttings whenever I get them, and can put them outside as soon as they get enough roots. For me, fresh cuttings have always rooted faster than those stored in a fridge.

But you live in Maryland, and your climate is not as forgiving. You may have to wait.

I have a cutting I rooted about 2 months ago, and have it planted outside. I called "JUST FRUIT AND EXOTICS" asked them if my tree would be OK through our zone 8a winter. They said yes but if temperatures drop below 25ºF the young fig tree's green new growth would be lost or damaged. So this winter I plan to put Christmas lights around it's pot, then cover it with a lite sheet and then cover that with a plastic bag. Next winter it is safe to let it be. Fig cuttings will start rooting anytime of the year if conditions are rite remember the fresher the better chance. If you want it and have cuttings on hand, then proceed to launch. Just take care of it inside through winter.

Hey Chips
I have to agree with what  Bob C says,
but Root Riot works great for me.

As others have commented above, you can run into issues if you start the cuttings in the Fall as it takes some effort to keep them happy indoors over the winter.  If you do try it then save back a couple cuttings as backups as suggested by Bob and start them in March.  I have tried several different methods but the method that worked best for me last winter is pasted in below.  It is a combination of a lot of different methods and ideas others have shared on the forum - so my thanks goes to them.

- cuttings can be stored in fridge for long periods if treated beforehand (see Axier method)

- use a knife (sterilized with rubbing alcohol and flamed) to strip a line of bark about ⅛ to ¼ inch wide and 1 inch long along the length of the cutting at the very bottom of the cutting; don't strip the bark all the way - you just want to get down to the green layer

- dip bottom of cutting into dip n’ gro at a 1:10 dilution for 5 seconds

- root using one of various methods:

1.  in a 1 gallon ziplock with damp spanghum moss

2.  by horizontally burying in a plastic shoebox (or smaller) container with slightly moist promix BX (see 7deuce post)

3. in root riot cubes after treatment with clonex according to manufacturer’s instructions (see Rafed post)
- allow roots to develop in a dark place around 70-75 degrees (ideally); this takes anywhere from 10-30 days

- when roots are visible (don’t need to be too extensive) it is time to pot-up using the method described by cajun dan (http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Pictures-of-New-Rooting-Technique-5370584); start by moistening peat pots with a spray bottle (you don’t want them totally saturated though);  add a mix of around 70% promix bx/30% perlite (moistened but not very wet) to the bottom of a 16 oz clear cup with holes; add mix so that when the peat is placed on top of the mix and gently pressed/twisted down the top of the peat pot is even with the top of the cup; then add some additional mix between the wall of the cup and the wall of the peat pot but not enough to totally fill the void; pack down the soil just a little with a pocket knife blade; add a small amount of mix to the bottom of the peat pot, then the cutting and fill in with soil around the cutting; tamp down the mix just a little; spray surface with a bit of water

- place cup in front of a south facing window (or under a grow light) and allow further root and shoot development; (the exception is if there is already leaves that are not hardened off to bright light - then put in front of a north facing window for a few days first); no humidity dome should be needed unless there is a lot leaf development relative to root development; water only when the peat pot begins to dry out and then add only enough to turn the peat pot to a dark color again

- When roots appear along the walls of the cup (i.e. have come out of the peat pot) then it is time to pot up to a 1 gallon container with regular mix; it is a good idea to perforate the bottom (and possibly the sides) of the peat pot when moving to the 1 gallon in order to facilitate escape of the roots from the peat pot.  

Very good helps. I'm so glad that I asked. Thank you all!