It has been very hard for me to keep track of all these very lengthy detailed posts;
thank you!

Sooo;  any good 'confirmed-rooted-figs twigs'; meaning potted-up and well-going, so far? 

StevNJ
Somehow the rooting pattern does not seem normal/average.
Most of the time when we get cuttings, we get mix of green and lignified woods. Many have experience of getting roots within average of four weeks in Zip bag process.
Could it because of the variety Bella you are using?
What is the storage temperature for storing the Zip bags?

Gorgi,

I have summarized the results so far in the table attached as a picture. It does get confusing and I keep a very detailed log file. I have also attached 2 photos. The larger plant is from a Group A cutting at 42 days after rooting. The smaller is a Group E cutting at 36 days after rooting. Notice the difference in vigor.

Your  first  picture sure shows a well rooted fig twig  that should be standing
very well on its own (thank you)...
Congrats.

Ottawan,

Well there is certainly differences in results by cultivars and it varies by cutting stock (see table in previous post to Gorgi). I have had results in as little as 2.5 weeks with one cultivar and 6.5 weeks with another. Within this experiment my first rooting result was after 13 days and the most recent after 47 days. So far I have had 100% success with the green cuttings which rooted far quicker than the woody cuttings. The method I used is described in one of the first postings on the thread (pretty standard). As far as the storage temp goes it is kept between 70-80 degrees F.

I certainly think there is something very unique about the Bella cultivar. It is a family heirloom tree that I saved a couple of years ago. During the rooting process I see the "starchy features" I previously described that I did not see when I rooted other types. The methods were the same but the Bella cuttings show this feature. It's rather odd. I have put together a PowerPoint file summarizing things to-date including  some observations. I will post it as a pdf later (makes for a quicker read).

Attached is a pdf copy of a 10 slide PowerPoint summary of the experiment so far. Hope this is a quicker read for all. Any comments welcome.

Well, my comment did sure stimulate you in producing some more details;
for some it may be more welcome; for others  (like me) the end result(s) were
just what was needed...

Anyway, thanks for the experiment.

Gorgi,
Glad you are getting something from all this. Its fun and interesting for me. It sure has raised many more questions in my mind about rooting cuttings. I thought the results would be simple and straight forward when I started. Now it seems a little more complex. It also made me add the last 3 groups which will begin the rooting process in about a week and a half. Now I am struggling for places to put all the cuttings. I have 7 in pots from the experiment and another 4 from other cuttings with several more on the way. Time to get those grow lights I've been looking at ;)

Yes, having MANY more fig varieties rooting  helps.
Yes, it is sometimes simple, but other times complex (specially with those
hard to root dark varieties, e.g., Mission, etc.,).

Most  of us are the average Joe/Jane fig-person interested in rooting
figs using the average normal already much documented methods.

I know that there are more exotic commercial  methods; I for one, did see
a 100% success, short 2 node fig twigs propagated in those tiny 2 inch
square 'annual seedlings' containers under a misting  system in a GH...
but who can afford or have space for that?

Steve,
your rooting experiment i also followed but sometimes did get confused as well but did understand and learned from it although i have problem retaining detailed information in life , I did know 2 things in advance though from my limited experience that i have had, 1 was the unknown sent you would root very fast and maybe the fastest for you (reason unknown) as it always did for me but another experience for me and might happen to you is getting those very sweet figs to mostly ripen as it needs a longer season in my climate but does ripen enough figs to judge them very well, the other experince we had similar was the rooting of EL Sal's tree, for me it takes a very long time to root for some reason as you may have also experienced but i forgot if i sent you those sticks. Also for me the hardy chicago seems the most prone for me in getting the white mold on them more so than my others. Also i recently recieved 2 greenish sticks of dark portuguese from a careing person when i lost my original plant and they rooted as fast as my unknown that you also have, there now in plastic cups and one has several small leaves, while the other has a bud yet to open. Your postings have been great to read and enjoyed them so thanks!
Martin

Thanks All for the dialog. If it helps I will lessen the amount of detail and only report on the results (your input welcome here). I think the table of results is probably the best means to communicate results as they occur. If you agree let me know. I find the results and observations I have shared in the pdf file to be very interesting and hope you do as well. For example, seeing the root development via pictures in the one slide was interesting. Also finding that the green cuttings out performed the woody ones (not what I have read in some places). Seeing that the woody and thicker cuttings showing more vigor in growth was also interesting. But by far the most interesting thing so far is the "starchy" stuff. I am surprised that this was not seen elsewhere and it is so dominant an occurrence with the Bella cultivar.

Steve,
 
I want to thank you for the most informative propagating information that I have ever read on the web, and believe me, I have read a bunch of good threads on that subject!
 
VERY INFORMATIVE!
Keep up the good work. You keep going and who knows, maybe a third Fig Forum, hehe ;-)
I can only imagine the time you have taken to do this project to help others like myself!
Thanks very much.
 
Cecil

Thanks so much Cecil. I'm glad I can share something worthwhile with the forum. I've learned so much here so its nice to give back something folks find useful.

New Observation on Unidentified Starchy Structures:

Today when checking on the un-rooted cuttings I decided to get more aggressive in controlling the mold development. I have been spraying periodically with diluted peroxide (50% peroxide, 50% water) to control mold but the spots reappear after a day or two. Since no new roots look like they are about to appear I decided to clean the Group B&D cuttings with diluted bleach solution (10% bleach, 90% water) and toothbrush like the method used in initial cutting preparation. After cleaning and rinsing I noticed that the starchy structures leave behind "scars" on the cuttings. These are hard and brown and are not easily removed. They resemble the callus that forms on the ends of the cuttings. Not sure of the significance of this but it certainly is different than the starchy structures themselves that are easily removed and are spongy or flaky. Attached are 3 photos. One is of a Group D cutting on 10-17-08 showing the starchy structures. Another is the same cutting but taken this morning after cleaning showing the scars. The last is of the scars on the same cutting but in a different location. Interesting but unexplained at this time. The scars remind me of the "bumps" often seen on growing branches when closely inspected.

Hey Steve,
Great work that you have been doing. Trying to root a few myself right now. Hey is that a root poping out on photo #2 (bottom near the table)?

Jazz,
Thanks. No it is not a root. I pinched off the new leaf growth because it was beginning to rot from mold. It is a piece of plant fiber. Good luck with the rooting.

The mold problems seem to have improved immensely since the thorough cleaning on Sunday. Only 2 of the cuttings had small spots of mold that were spot-treated this morning to remove. None of the cuttings have put out any new roots but one looks as though new white spots (initials?) are beginning to form. Will check on progress again in a few days.

Today the 3 new experimental groups (G, H and I) were removed from cold storage after 4 weeks. They were kept at 38 degrees F and were dormant before storage. Each group consists of 8 cuttings and were individually examined. They were in excellent condition with the exception of minor mold on 2 of the total 24 cuttings. These were put into the "nursery" to begin the rooting process.

Note: In this experiment I have come across 3 types of mold. The first is the fine white "fluffy" kind that is easily contolled using a diluted peroxide solution. The peroxide treatment usually eliminates this mold and prevents its reoccurence. The second more agressive type of mold is green and forms on cuttings that are beginning to rot or "die". Peroxide is not effective on the green mold. Peroxide treatment must be combined with mechanical cleaning and it only staves off this mold for a day or two. Treatment with a diluted bleach solution does a better job of controlling the green mold but even this only prevents return for a few days. When green mold takes hold on the cutting it is likely near time to discard it. Finally there is black mold. This usually forms when the cutting is beyond saving and has significant rot. If black mold is present, the cutting should be discarded.

Regarding previous experimental groups - no new roots or initials are present. Green mold has set in on 2 of the 3 remaining Group B cuttings (they will likely need discarding soon). Similarly, on the Group D cuttings green mold is beginning to return. These groups are all current season wood and only one of each group started rooting. The rooted ones in rooting media have not shown any new root growth and may have failed.

The cuttings in Groups A and C (last year's wood) also show no new root development but are not having the mold problems of the others.

The 4 Group F cuttings (green wood) had all rooted and are in potting mix but seem to be failing. The exposed wood above the soil line has begun to dry out and no leaves have developed.

Of the Group E cuttings (green wood) two were previously discarded and two rooted well. The first is growing nicely in potting mix. The other was transplanted into potiing mix last week and has been suffering from shock and wilting badly. Even with additional humidity during this period, I believe this cutting will fail eventually.

I have 1 Sal's cutting (of the original 2) still without roots. The first one that did root is in potting mix and continues to develop roots but has not formed any leaves yet.

The four Martin's Unknown are all doing exceptionally well in potting mix.

I have a group of Armenian cuttings (thanks Gorgi) that are in the rooting process but haven't developed any initials yet.

Good update, only thing i might had is the Sals will take forever but if patient it will grow , i have one in cup with roots and a brown bud on top and waiting for it to shed so the green one insdie will open as i have observed this before with this typoe of Sals, they are the slowest for me.
Glad to here the Martin Unknown is doing good and hope to compare in few years!
Martin

Martin,
By far the Unknowns are the rooting champ! All of them are doing extremely well. Thanks a bunch. I certainly see that the one rooted Sal is growing very slowly (roots) compared to the Unknown, Bella and King. Thanks for the heads-up on the Sal's it has one brown bud and one green bud. Neither are doing much yet but glad to know this is similar to your experience. I'll be patient with the one that hasn't rooted yet. Based upon pics you posted on both your Unk and Sal's, I can't wait to have fruits from them - they look exceptional. I am somewhat surprised at how difficult the Bella cuttings are to root. So far I have only been 50-50 at best. And even after they root, many fail. But when one takes, it grows like mad. For example, the one I have in the ground was cut down to about 2 ft and 2 branches in the early spring. By mid summer it was nearing 7 ft with 11 new hardy branches. It would have kept going but I started pinching the terminal buds.

SteveNJ
During the experiment, did you notice any difference in molding tendency between the dormant cuttings and the non-dormant cuttings?

Ottawan,
I just moved the dormant cuttings out of cold storage and into the heat this weekend. There was only a little of the fluffy white mold on 2 of the 24 cuttings. This was taken care of with the peroxide solution. So far I would say no difference but we'll see because mold ws not a big issue on any of them for a while. I'll keep track of this to see if it changes. I do see a big difference in reduced mold during this experiment relative to my past trials because of the cleaning with diluted bleach.

December 9, 2008

Cuttings were examined last evening. The Group A & C cuttings had extensive green mold and were discarded (last season’s wood). Mold is present on the remaining B&D cuttings (current season wood) and will likely get discarded soon.

Of the new groups added to the experiment (dormant & 4 weeks of chilling at 38F) …

Group G & I (woody and mixed green/woody, respectively) no initials are visible. On Group H (green) there are initials on 6 of the 8 cuttings after only 2 days. At this time it appears that these are “real” initials and not the “flaky stuff” seen with the earlier groups – based upon rubbing a few to see if they would fall off. As in the previous groups, the green cuttings seem to advance more quickly then the woody ones.

I have attached an updated experimental matrix with the summary data included. Note that an “X” indicates cuttings that were discarded due to mold.

One of the Group D cuttings (current season wood, 1 week chilling) has formed roots. Based upon the length, it is estimated that the root formed 2 days ago (12/12) or 62 days into the heating cycle.

New leaves have formed on one of the Group B cuttings (current season wood, no chilling). One of the B’s had to be discarded due to advanced mold growth and the remaining two were spot cleaned for green mold.

The three newer groups (G, H, I – four weeks chilled) are showing the same “starchy substance” observed on the earlier groups. This is still unexplained at this time.

My other Sal's cutting has rooted (after 76 days). I included some pics: one of the root initial 2 days ago and one of the roots that I found today.

Although not part of the experiment, I have also posted a table of the rooting times I have collected with other varieties that have successfully rooted for me. These are good data points for comparison with the experimental times.

Finally, while examining the cuttings I tried an alternative way to remove green mold. The cuttings have been spot cleaned previously with diluted bleach which works very well but requires mechanical cleaning also (I use the solution and an old tooth brush). Today I cleaned one cutting using "hand sanitizer" gel and a cotton swab. This aggressively dissolved the green mold and required very little scrubbing at all. The residual evaporated as when used for cleaning your hands. Since this contains ethyl alcohol (~60%) it evaporates quickly and shouldn't damage the cutting. I will keep track to see how this method works for spot treatments.