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Rooting grape cuttings like fig cuttings

Is here any fig enthusiast who also roots grape vine cuttings.
I am OK with rooting fig cuttings but failed dismally with grape cuttings purchased in Canada?

I bought 36 cuttings from from a grape vine orchardist. I tried three different methods using 12 cutting for each method:
1. Baggie method like for figs, 12 cuttings, one showed roots but later dies
2. Perlite-Vermiculite (75/25%), 12 cuttings, some showed shoots but no roots and then faded away
3. Schultz Soil Mix, 12 cuttings, 12 cuttings which seem to be doing nothing just sitting watching the fig cuttings root and grow beside them.
 
All three processes at about 75F, in humidity chamber and with heat mate. The cuttings don't look rotten (like fig cuttings will do). Parts above rooting medium look dried for thinner ones but difficult to say the same about the thick ones. When bought, the colour was on the darkish (blackish) side than the normal brown colour of grape vine.
 
I know I should have waited for spring or summer and done it in ground as others suggest and do but I thought I should get a head-start (or just impatient).
 
I used to hear that grape vine cuttings are easy to root like figs.
Did I do it the wrong way or the cuttings did not have vitality?
 
There must be some difference in the behaviour of fig cuttings and grape cuttings. I will appreciate your thoughts even though it may be (or may not be) too late.
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I rooted grape cuttings in promix, used bottom heat, shop lights, same setup as fig cuttings. They rooted quickly, showed leaves early and I had grapes 3 years later. Got the cuttings in a fig/grape internet swap. I would think your P/V mix should have worked.
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I have rooted several times grape cuttings and I haven't had special problems with it.
Unlike figs, grape rooting improves with rooting hormone. You can root cuttings without hormones but, according to my experience, the difference is big.
I used 2000 ppm IBA with good results.
I learned the technique from Lon Rombough, he is an renowned organic grape grower and he is author of the book "The Grape Grower", a very advisable book.

Anyway, you can view the process in his web site:

http://www.bunchgrapes.com/cuttings.html

A very important thing about rooting grapes, it is the cutting hydration. Lon Rombough cites in his book differences from 20% to 90% in success rate with cuttings without / with an overnight water soaking, previous to rooting process.

You can preview in Amazon.com the above book content, if you access to page 147, you can read the hydration importance. Type the word "Hydrating" in the "search" field of the AmazonOnline Reader window or follow this link.
After that, click on the link "1. on Page 155". You will can read an interesting comment about hydrating grape cuttings.
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Grapes are generally easier to root as they are "harder" wood than figs, and have less of the mold and rotting issues. Well draining soil should be about all that you need., and maybe a bag over them to keep up the humidity in the cutting. I just do mine outside in the shade.
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I concur with Jon that grapes are one of the easist fruit twigs to root.
My problem is that for the mature couple grape vines I have; the fruit
is mostly eaten by some nasty critter - possum and/or racoon...
Very frustrating!
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Thank you all for great inputs.
My feeling is that excluding the baggie method, the other two methods are similar to the one in the reference provided by Axier in the this link, the only difference being that the whole cutting was at the same temperature in the chamber with a heat mate under it. I had four cuttings from a different source in BC and they rooted using the two (non-bag) methods.
 This makes me think that either I was out of luck with this vintage/source of cuttings or the cuttings did not have what it takes to root.
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